Engine prepping tips before starting after many years of down time?

[Pat Conlon]

Oops, yep, he already did that.....

Carry on....

[ribbert]

This topic is getting a tad over thought.

The motor ran when it was last used so there's nothing wrong with it.
If you can rotate it freely by hand, nothing that matters is stuck.
It hasn't been disassembled so there will be oil everywhere.
FJ's get oil to the top end almost instantly, even when they have been in bits (It spends more time running without oil pressure when you change the filter)
The extent to which rust in the cylinders or on the valves is a problem can only be determined after you start it.
9 minutes, 9 months, 9 years......there is virtually nothing (exposure to moisture excluded) in an engine that deteriorates with time alone. Even modern seals seem to last well.

Leave the old oil filter on, it's already full of oil, and fire it up, keep the revs low for few minutes.  After the oil is warm and any sediment dislodged, change the oil and filter.

I have a motor on my bench at the moment that hasn't run in 80 years. It's worth a lot more than an FJ motor, it's not mine and I'm certainly not going to risk any thing.

After determining it turns over freely, has compression and oil pump drive isn't sheared ( not something to worry about on the FJ) I will attempt to start it. That's it.

Any damage caused by rust will manifest itself with oil burning, poor compression and so, but that comes after you start it.

Good luck

Noel

[Flynt]

This topic is getting a tad over thought...

Good luck

"fire it up and hope for the best" ...not exactly the Milspec approach.  I'm sure you won't do that anyway, but think about the worst case scenario.  Hope for the best, but plan for the worst.

I'd invest an few ounces of prevention if for no other reason than to make myself feel better if something did go wrong.  I sure wouldn't start her up with 20yo oil in there.

Frank

[ribbert]

This topic is getting a tad over thought...

Good luck

"fire it up and hope for the best" ...not exactly the Milspec approach.  I'm sure you won't do that anyway, but think about the worst case scenario.  Hope for the best, but plan for the worst.

I'd invest an few ounces of prevention if for no other reason than to make myself feel better if something did go wrong.  I sure wouldn't start her up with 20yo oil in there.

Frank

You're absolutely right about the oil Frank, draining off what you can of the old stuff and replacing it is a good idea.
As far as the rest of it goes, it not a case of "fire it up and hope for the best". You have already established that the motor turns over freely and IIRC, this bike is his and he knows there was nothing wrong with it when he parked it up.
My point was, people tend to over rate the effects of a motor simply not having been used for a long time. It's an engine, nothing happens to it while it's sitting there. If carbs and exhaust are fitted, even poor storage (open air) should have a minimal effect.
I am certainly not advocating a cavalier approach to the process, just pointing out its a simple one that doesn't need to be over thought and to quell any fears the owner has that it's going to fly into a million bits just because it's been sitting around for a while.
If a motor does have an issue when you start it up it is probably why it was laid up in the first place.

Noel

[JoBrCo]

Thanks again guys!

My plan is to finish the carbs, put some more oil in the cylinders and drizzle some on top of the cams/valves, replace the oil and filter, then start her up, and sync the carbs. After running and testing her for a while, while working on some brake, chain and chassis issues, I plan on changing the oil and filter yet again.

Has anyone used the ColorTune device to set their air/fuel mixture?  I was planning on trying one during the initial carb tuning, and was wondering if it's worth the cost.     

[Harvy]

Here's a story....... not advocating, just telling.

About 20 years ago a mate came across an old IH dozer parked up in the scrub, vines all over it - obviously not moved in many years.
Enquired of the property owner who said he didn't even know it was there, and yes, my mate could have it if he could get it out of there.
We couldn't get near it in a car or even with his tractor, so we walked in the km or 2 with a battery, some oil, fuel and a box of tools.
Hooked the battery up and it wouldn't turn over.
Pulled the head off and with a big block of wood, gave each piston a good whack. Head back on and now it turns over.
Diesel in the tank, water in the radiator and a shot of start-ya-bastard in the inlet manifold........ hit the starter and it starts blowing smoke rings out the exhaust.

As far as i know, that little old dozer is still pulling timber out of the forest and has not even been re-ringed.

So my call on this subject is make sure it turns over. If it does, fire it up and diagnose any problem from there....... as has been said, it was running when it was parked up, so there is no reason to suspect that it will not run again.


Harvy

[FJ_Hooligan]

The Colortune is not required.  Start at 3 turns out on the idle mixture screws and go from there using the blip test.

[JoBrCo]

The Colortune is not required.  Start at 3 turns out on the idle mixture screws and go from there using the blip test.

Blip Test??? Please expound, as I'm not familiar with the procedures or required equipment.

TIA

JoBrCo

[JoBrCo]

Found the blip test.  When they say blip the throttle do they mean to very rapidly twist it then just as rapidly let it go?

[FJ_Hooligan]

Just blip the throttle off idle.  A quick slight twist and release.  Don't need to rev it over 3K.

[Flynt]

Found the blip test. 

Could also be called the "flick" test...  I use fingers and thumb to flick the throttle open and then release.

Frank

[JoBrCo]

Not to cause turmoil, but "Flick" does seem to be more descriptive as to what's actually taking place, as in a "flick of the wrist."  The only way I've ever heard "Blip" used was in reference to a RADAR contact on a scope, and while they are instantaneously painted, then fade due to the phosphors temporary excitation, the contact is still there waiting for the antennas next sweep. Some actions are just hard to summarize with one word, so as to be concise.

So thanks guys, for the clarification, I'm sure I understand the process now.

Yesterday I was working on remounting the swing arm and ran into a problem, the #37 Seal, Guard (chain guard) P/N 36Y-22151-01-00 cracked when I reattached it, brittle after all these years, I had cleaned it several years ago with gasoline, but in hindsight I should have then sprayed it with a light to medium oil, before placing it in a plastic bag and setting it aside, as putting oil on plastic tends to make it more supple. Gasoline does the opposite, leaching out the plasticizers.  Sometimes I could kick myself in the ass. 

Has anyone successfully repaired this item?  I was thinking about either epoxying/super gluing it to the the side of the swingarm, or manufacturing a part much like #27 WASHER, PLATE P/N 36Y-22156-00-00 for the upper mounting ear, which is the portion that has cracked almost completely off.  I'm thinking that some thin sheet metal could be bent and drilled to sit under that ear/guard, by first heating the metal then pressing it into the bottom of the plastic, making them one, if by looking at the exploded view you can catch my drift. If not I could create a drawing as an attachment.