Engine mounts & vibration

aussiefj · July 06, 2014, 05:09:01 AM

Hi guys, when doing the front engine mounts on the later models, is it just the inner collar on the engine mount that needs to be freed up or do you also have to do likewise with the mount in the frame and the rubber mount that comes off with the bracket between the 2 bolts.

Cheers, John

ribbert · July 06, 2014, 05:52:21 AM

Quote from: aussiefj on July 06, 2014, 05:09:01 AM
Hi guys, when doing the front engine mounts on the later models, is it just the inner collar on the engine mount that needs to be freed up or do you also have to do likewise with the mount in the frame and the rubber mount that comes off with the bracket between the 2 bolts.

Cheers, John

You will be relieved to know it's just the inner collar. This doesn't mean you get off easy though. Some of these are incredibly tight. There has been a lot written here about removing them. Just make sure that whatever tool you use to withdraw it, the load is taken on the collar next to it (that is, the one it sits in). More often than not the force needed to get the pin out can make a real mess if you load up the wrong part, such as the lug on the corner of the crankcase that the whole thing sits in. Do no not try and hammer it out unless you a spare lower crankcase half and a lot of spare time. If not sure or can't find clear instructions in the files, ASK!

It makes a huge difference with these done.

Noel

Bones · July 06, 2014, 06:01:36 AM

Just the inner collar John, they can be hard to get out and people have different ways of doing it, but once out, clean up the collar and bush it fits into with fine sandpaper, you know it's clean when you can tap the bush in and out easily with your fingers. Coat with grease, reassemble and enjoy the smoothness.

Tony.

movenon · July 06, 2014, 09:30:20 AM

Here is a link in the files section with some photo's and information. Funny thing is I have another members bike in the garage and about ready to go purchase what I need to remove his bushings so I was studying this guide last night.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3613.0

George

yamaha fj rider · July 06, 2014, 09:34:08 AM

Mine were just barely stuck. A few small taps from a dead blow hammer was all that was need to remove them. As Noel said, if you hit that with a big hammer. How much are new cases? Play it safe, use common sense. This makes a huge difference.

Kurt

movenon · July 06, 2014, 10:16:32 AM

Quote from: yamaha fj rider on July 06, 2014, 09:34:08 AM
Mine were just barely stuck. A few small taps from a dead blow hammer was all that was need to remove them. As Noel said, if you hit that with a big hammer. How much are new cases? Play it safe, use common sense. This makes a huge difference.

Kurt

I thought about trying to tap them out first and if it was my own bike I would give that a shot but as it is not my bike I think I will just make a puller. Not much time or money invested there and I just want to be on the safe side. I have adjusted and balanced his carbs but IMO there is still to much vibration considering it is a newer FJ. That's why I want to check his mounts plus I can assume it has never been serviced since new. Just doing what I can while it is sitting in the garage. "Tinkering"
George

Arnie · July 06, 2014, 11:07:05 AM

George,

As long as you're "tinkering" :-) and believe it has too much vibration....
Check those bolts between the lower frame rails and the main frame.
You have to remove the footplates to get at them, but they can and do cause a lot of vibes.

Arnie

movenon · July 06, 2014, 12:16:39 PM

Quote from: Arnie on July 06, 2014, 11:07:05 AM
George,

As long as you're "tinkering" :-) and believe it has too much vibration....
Check those bolts between the lower frame rails and the main frame.
You have to remove the footplates to get at them, but they can and do cause a lot of vibes.

Arnie

That's been on my mind.... My reasoning on the vibrations is because my 1990 is smoother and both bikes are in good tune. I have read of the rear bolts also breaking. I really am just playing around with the bike trying to fix things as I see them.
George

aussiefj · July 06, 2014, 05:55:08 PM

Thanks everyone, I did have a bit of a try yesterday, before I posted, at the one on the right side and it looks stuck pretty solid so I just wanted to check I was doing it right before applying too much force, I'll make myself a decent puller today and get stuck into them. I've been getting pins a needles in my right hand for a long time now after about 1/2 or so of riding and the right hand mirror vibrates more than the left, so I'll try the left collar first maybe that will be easier to get out.
I 'fixed' the bolts under the footrest plate a few years back, they were both sheared off, managed to get one out by drilling and using an easy-out the other one has still got half the easy-out stuck in it, the one I got out I re-drilled a size or two larger and used a high tensile bolt and it's been good ever since.
Ok time to go have a play, the phrase this could all end in tears comes to mind, we shall see.
Thanks for all the info,
John

movenon · July 06, 2014, 06:07:49 PM

Quote from: aussiefj on July 06, 2014, 05:55:08 PM
Thanks everyone, I did have a bit of a try yesterday, before I posted, at the one on the right side and it looks stuck pretty solid so I just wanted to check I was doing it right before applying too much force, I'll make myself a decent puller today and get stuck into them. I've been getting pins a needles in my right hand for a long time now after about 1/2 or so of riding and the right hand mirror vibrates more than the left, so I'll try the left collar first maybe that will be easier to get out.
I 'fixed' the bolts under the footrest plate a few years back, they were both sheared off, managed to get one out by drilling and using an easy-out the other one has still got half the easy-out stuck in it, the one I got out I re-drilled a size or two larger and used a high tensile bolt and it's been good ever since.
Ok time to go have a play, the phrase this could all end in tears comes to mind, we shall see.
Thanks for all the info,
John

Next time you have the side scoops and side dash panels off, check the 4 fairing stay bolts. You can see two through where your scoops were and the other two on top up a bit from the dash panels. From memory they are 12mm. Your mirrors screw on to the fairing stay.
George

X-Ray · July 06, 2014, 07:00:29 PM

When we did my mounts last year, we had a small jack under the motor as well just too keep things in place. I know that the rear engine bolt with the rubber cushion that acts as a damper for vibes on mine is no good. Just spins in the threads and won't tighten. A few here have also installed grease fittings to the front mounts as well, well worth doing.

aussiefj · July 07, 2014, 04:12:54 AM

Hi all, thanks heaps for all the tips, managed to get them both out after much struggling and sweating, if you hadn't said how hard it was going to be I think I would have given up before I managed to move them, had to use about a meter of pipe over my breaker bar, no way would I have used that much force unless I was sure it was the right thing to do. Cleaned every thing up and greased it all and they slid back in easily. The right one was fairly badly pitted in a couple of places where it had stuck to the outer sleeve, but I don't think it'll be a problem. Still in the middle of my rim conversion so I can't take it out to try it but if the vibrations are proportional the the amount of stuckness then it should be pretty smooth now.

Cheers, John

and I've checked the fairing bolts as well for good measure, thanks George.

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Engine mounts & vibration