Some pics of my FJ1200 project

[dma251]

Lowered forks 1.75" so tops are flush with the triple-clamp.  Seems like it sits about the same, which is what I wanted.

I'm waiting for the clip-ons to get here so i can put the controls back on, which will allow me to start fiddling with the headlight again, and maybe get around to painting the subframe, putting exhaust back on...   This is fun!

[dma251]

If that piece of the frame that goes around the front of the steering head wasn't there, it would make things a lot simpler.

It sure would, but as Donald Rumsfeld would have said - "You go to war with the bike you have, not the bike you want"

I have spent many a drunken night complaining about that bar.  Here's how it sits tonight, waiting for the clip-ons to arrive so I can move on.

[dma251]

I have moved on to electrical.  Pretty soon I'm gonna have to start deciding on the battery and instrumentation.  I'm going with acewell or koso for the gauges.  Prob try building one of those LiFe batteries first and see how it works.   For know it's hooked up to "shore-power" while I troubleshoot the electrical...

[Joe Sull]

Looking good. How do those clip ons feel.

Thinking of velocity stacks?

[Pat Conlon]

Think about your plan on running the wires over the top center of the engine.

There is a reason why Yamaha ran the wires along the side frame rails.

[dma251]

It's going to be wrapped in this - http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=sn0qr9

and I'm using stand-offs and silicone-lined stainless cable-straps to keep at least 1" over the valve-cover.

Believe me, I've given it thought and I know the disadvantages, but there is no easy way to hide it where it passes past the trailing-edge of the head where it pinches down close to the frame.   

I think it will do alright as long as it's wrapped and secured.  Plus, my tank is higher, so there is an inch of extra space to keep the harness up and off the engine. 

I appreciate the caution, though.  For anyone doing this, you definitely need to insulate and chaff-protect the harness over the engine.

[Pat Conlon]

Ok, good deal....you've thought it through....kudos!

Also a plus, with your open design, you won't have as much heat trapped under the tank with no fairing or side panels.

I use some aluminum foil faced duct tape on my clutch line, works great.....although with electrical wires you would want some kind of cushioning insulation between the wires and foil duct tape. No sharp edges.

[dma251]

That earlier link didn't go to the specific product, but this should -

http://www.mcmaster.com/#2627k36/=sn17wy

It's high-heat insulated foil wrap/sleeve.  I've used it before for o2 sensor wires and it works great.

[racerrad8]

I have moved on to electrical...

Looking at your 4th & 5th pictures, you really should not use Tygon tubing for the pressurized fuel line. That tubing gets soft with heat and then the hose can rupture.

Secondly, you have two fuel lines at the carbs, that indicates gravity feed carbs and the needle seats inside the bowls must be changed to use a fuel pump or you will never get it to stop flooding.

And finally, in picture 4, the slide on the #1 carb is stuck in the raised position.

Just a couple of things I noticed.

Randy - RPM

[Brook]

..... dma251,   One of my mods. that I did to my FJ is, I ran a home made wiring harness through a 27inch bicycle tube [for insulation] and then I ran the tube through the frame. .... So, you can not see the harness at all.

   I also, did the same, with the braided clutch line,..... no more hot or dirt clutch/brake fluid.



                                                   Jeff

[movenon]

The dog in picture 4 is telling you to listen to Randy 
George

[dma251]

I have moved on to electrical...

Looking at your 4th & 5th pictures, you really should not use Tygon tubing for the pressurized fuel line. That tubing gets soft with heat and then the hose can rupture.

Secondly, you have two fuel lines at the carbs, that indicates gravity feed carbs and the needle seats inside the bowls must be changed to use a fuel pump or you will never get it to stop flooding.

And finally, in picture 4, the slide on the #1 carb is stuck in the raised position.

Just a couple of things I noticed.

Randy - RPM

Randy - thank you very much for your thoughts!  I was concerned about the tygon tubing too.  I really wanted to find some fuel line that was the same type as the OEM, but all I could find was that fiber-reinforced stuff that is very thick-walled and shiny.  I planned on using spring-clamps, but I will scrap it and get the right stuff.

My bigger concern is what you said about my carbs.  My assumption about this bike when I got it was that it was stock.  I always assumed my carbs were fuel-pump style stockers.  I opened them up and found 112.5 main jets.  I've gotten conflicting research as to whether that is stock for 1990.

The bike was poorly running when I got it, but no obvious signs of work or swapping going on.  I thought I lost a section of fuel line and tee-fitting over the course of the last year since I initially got the bike and tinkered with it, so I bought a T-fitting and the new fuel line.  There is one central fitting between carbs 2-3 that has what i thought was a vent line attached, but now I am going to get my book out....   

Can you take another close look at the carb pic and confirm what you think I have here?

[racerrad8]

Randy - thank you very much for your thoughts!  I was concerned about the tygon tubing too.  I really wanted to find some fuel line that was the same type as the OEM, but all I could find was that fiber-reinforced stuff that is very thick-walled and shiny.  I planned on using spring-clamps, but I will scrap it and get the right stuff.

My bigger concern is what you said about my carbs.  My assumption about this bike when I got it was that it was stock.  I always assumed my carbs were fuel-pump style stockers.  I opened them up and found 112.5 main jets.  I've gotten conflicting research as to whether that is stock for 1990.

The bike was poorly running when I got it, but no obvious signs of work or swapping going on.  I thought I lost a section of fuel line and tee-fitting over the course of the last year since I initially got the bike and tinkered with it, so I bought a T-fitting and the new fuel line.  There is one central fitting between carbs 2-3 that has what i thought was a vent line attached, but now I am going to get my book out....   

Can you take another close look at the carb pic and confirm what you think I have here?

The center line is the fuel inlet is you have that. If you have the Tygon tubing hooked to the white tees between the carbs those are bowl vent lines...

Jet size does not indicate that carbs you have...

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Fuel pump vs gravity flow...it's all about your float needle seat size..
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0

[dma251]

I just checked - I have TWO white plastic t-fittings that are further from the intake openings, and one SINGLE metal fitting between 2-3 that is closer to the intake openings....

What have I got here?!?!?   Now I am starting to wonder...