Bonneville - Speed Week 2014

[fj1289]

Progress continues - just seems slow!  Less than 8 weeks away and I'm staring to feel out of time.

Sorted several wiring issues.  A missing sensor ground (MAP and TPS were wondering all over the place), a bad clutch switch, and a bad tail light socket.   

Modified the FJR TB's to accept Busa throttle cables (since I swapped to Busa switchgear - and the throttle assembly too).  Luckily the cable free length works - so just ordered cables from MotionPro that are 8 inches longer than the stock). 

Waiting to hear back from an experienced salt racer on how much wheel slip to account for, then time to order the sprockets.  Unless his answers shock me, I plan to order a 33, 29, and 26 rear wheel sprockets - and take 16, 17, and 18 tooth countershaft sprockets. 

Went back to Woodys and had metal valve stems installed in the rims. 

Picked up 2 used 10 pound nitrous bottles to use as mother bottles at Bonneville (no nitrous vendors on site).  Had to get them hydro static tested (has to be done every 5 years).  Also picked up 2 5 pound bottles to use for the runs.  Just need to piece together the rest of the system!

Pulled the head of the 1314 engine.  Pistons and cylinders look great!  Very pleased with the exception of the valves - they are still stock.  Really wish it had oversized valves -- especially on the exhaust side.   Plan to run a decompression plate - shooting for around 8.7:1.  Need to add about 1.39mm under the cylinder block to get there. 

The cams are also a bit mild - the typical Megacycle 268-00 grind.  I'll be swapping over the much more aggressive Web cams from the dragbike (along with the shim under buckets followers and retainers).  May also have to cut the tops of the valve guides for clearance...

Next will be splitting the cases to swap in the XJR rods (hopefully there's a set of matching bearings in the two sets of bearing shells sitting in the box!). 

[Joe Sull]

Looks like you got the project under control. Really great to hear about your progress. I'm sure you already have someone to take pictures of everything. It's gonna be a carnival atmosphere.

[fj1289]

Looks like you got the project under control. Really great to hear about your progress. I'm sure you already have someone to take pictures of everything. It's gonna be a carnival atmosphere.

I can't wait!   Carnival of horsepower and speed!

[fj1289]

Disassembled the 1314 head a couple nights ago.


Bit of a setback -- looks like #4 ate a screw sometime in he past. 



Missed it when I pulled the head.  If I had simply put the engine in the frame and rode it on the street, it would probably never be an issue.  But with he plan to run a healthy load of nitrous, any sharp spots in the combustion are likely to cause detonation -- and create a big lump of scrap metal! 

The head has a very nice port job so I'd really like to save it. 


Randy says they routinely cut the heads all the way to the valve seats!  Looks to me like that will be enough to clean it up.   UPS has the head on the way to Randy now...fingers crossed.

[fj1289]

Split the engine cases last night. 

Had to fab a tool to hold the clutch basket -- welded some flat plate to an old warped clutch steel.


Fairly straight forward from there - just had one fastener strip - one of the torx holding the bearing cover plate (behind the clutch basket) in place.  Had to break out the reverse twist drill bits.  Started small in the center of the recess.  Then stepped up a size.  No joy.  Didn't want to go too deep for fear of buggering up the case threads.  Decided to go up another size to drill the head off and then deal with the remaining shank later.  Just as the bit began to break thru out comes the fastener!  I sure hope the person that invented left twist drill bits made a fortune - they deserve it!

Lucky two times!  The rods are all #4s and the rod journals on the crank are all #2s -- I have a full set of black bearings on hand already.   

[fj1289]

Just had a look at the landracing.com site - 30 days!  Holy crap there's a lot left to do!  And definitely getting excited!

Made some good progress over the 4th of July weekend, but now gone for a week on business.  Had company over for the 4th - my wife's great aunt and uncle - the ones who came up with the Bonneville trip idea in the first place.  So lots of garage time (which SWMBO considered to be "visiting" and "quality time" ... not her normal thoughts towards the hours spent in the garage so far...)



Had an FJ steering stem pressed out of an old triple clamp and installed it in the 2003 R1 triple clamp with new bearings.  Really wish I still had access to a good press.  Mounted the lower triple upside down like on the drag bike.   That way allows you to raise the forks farther in the triples before getting to the tapered portion of the fork leg.  The 02/03 R1 triples only have 25mm of offset (compared to 35mm for the earlier R1 triples and for the FJ).  This increases trail (good for the salt) and decreases the wheelbase slightly.  I do have a wheelbase limit - in order to stay in the "modified" class and not have to run in the "purpose built" class the wheelbase can be no longer than 10% greater than the stock specifications.  The GYSM shows the wheelbase for an 89 to be 58.7".  Add 10% and you get 64.57" max wheelbase.   Right now it's nearly 66.5, but should decrease a little with some more lowering.  Swapped the cut forks from the drag bike, but haven't set the front ride height yet - probably will end up an inch or so lower than it is now. 

We got the nitrous bottle mount completed!  And with that done we were able to mount the swingarm.  Deleted the foot peg mount plates like on the drag bike - and had to "borrow" the shortened swingarm pivot bolt also.  Turns out uncle Jeff is somewhat of an artist with a jigsaw and a  1/4" thick plate of aluminum.  Transferred the cardboard template to the aluminum plate with a sharpie and just let him rip - half a day later and there are a couple nice looking pieces of aluminum with straight cut edges and amazing circles cut out of them - all with a jigsaw and a couple metal cutting blades.

While the bottle mount was being cut, I moved on the the coils mounts.  Have been using GSXR/Busa COPs (coil on plugs) with the EFI so far.  Nice clean install, but wanted a more robust coil setup with the planned nitrous use.   Seems the GM LS engine series truck coils are the hot ticket.  After scavenging the junk yards and eBay, I couldn't find any reasonably priced.  Did find a full set of LS1 coils and harness for an OK price.  Did a little research, and although they are not the best GM has to offer, they are no slouches either.   In order to keep the coils away from the electronics and to free up space for other things, decided to mount the coils just forward of and above the valve cover - just an inch or two forward of the stock coil mount location.  Also happens that is about the perfect location to be able to use standard length GM plug wires too.  Pics to follow on this one.  Still have to complete the wiring of the new coils.   

Started work on the fairing.   Plan is to make some minor improvements while keeping the FJ "look".  Started the process of removing and glassing over the side scoops and headlight.  Began by making a "sheet" of a single layer of fiberglass cloth in a gigantic sheet cake pan.  Once the resin setup, we marked and cut panels   to cover the backside of the openings for the scoops and headlight.  Then fiberglassed them into place from the backside.  Next step will be cutting fiberglass mat to use to fill the openings and then finish it all off with fiber reinforced body filler.  Will also be doing the turn signal cut outs and the upper fairing mount/mirror mount holes.  Second part of the streamlining plan is to lower the fairing and move it forward some - trying to cut down on the frontal area (same reason for lowering the bike). 



Looks like I may have to "scallop" (fancy word for beat with a ball peen hammer and smooth out with body putty) the tank for some more handle bar clearance.  Even though the 25mm offset clamps limit the steering angle, I still can't angle the clip ons far enough back to get them completely behind the fairing without hitting the tank. 



Looks like I can trim the corners of the windscreen a bit.  Would be cool to see how a double bubble would work....hmmm

Then, time to turn attention to the seat and tail section.   I've already removed the grab handles and riveted aluminum angle in place to provide the mounting point.  Still need to finish cleaning up the subframe - relocate the mounts for the rear of the tail so they are up "in" the tail and then make a smooth fiberglass under tail. 

And, finally the engine.  So, now the drag bike head should also be with Randy.   Seems the head is the most troublesome part of the whole build -- so I'm glad I've got Randy on it instead of having to fumble around with it on my own!  The drag bike cams (and shim under bucket setup) sounded like the easiest way to go.  BUT, the reduced base circle camshaft is causing excessive clearance.  The kicker is the valves in the drag bike head are stock length and the shim under bucket conversion doesn't "make up" for the decreased base circle on the cam....and the valves don't look to be "sunk" that far into the drag bike head.  WTF?!  Well, Randy should have the drag bike head in his hands today -- can't wait to see what he figures out.  Oh yeah - just using the drag bike head isn't an easy answer since it has aluminum spigots welded to where the intake manifolds normally bolt up - it was setup for individual Lectron carbs...  Trying to find a happy solution that lets me run hard at Bonneville, but doesn't require a head to be completely redone when it comes time to put it back on the street later.  But then again, Bonneville is the alligator closest (and getting closer fast!) to the boat now...figure the rest out later if we have to!

[fj1289]

Well, heard back from Randy.  Plan is to go forward with the drag bike head -- mill the spigots off, redrill and tap the manifold bolt holes, and open up the combustion chambers to unshroud the valves.  The head has been milled nearly 50 thousandths to up compression ratio, so that will have to be made up in the base gasket stack, plus the added thickness needed to lower the stock compression ratio. 

Only downside will be returning the head to service on the dragbike -- but that should be fairly easily solved.  Otherwise, looks like we might be able to get the engine back into this thing with about two weeks to go 

Here's hoping this thing will be a rocket!   

[GhostMerc]

Yeah, 130 ? ....I will be sorely disappointed with that!  160 is the goal. I know nothing is gauranteed - running on the salt will be a totally new experience.  And a lot will depend on the condition of the salt.  

After reading the article about traction I feel a little bit better about those numbers.  My initial thought was that the bike does 156 top gear redline stock.  My dad said he regularly pushed his '84 passed this; putting him around 160, almost maxing out the speedo.  I finally learned the truth about those runs down country roads just last year. 

Have you calculated theoretical top speed with the gearing setups you have?  I can only imagine that the horsepower the bike is going to put out, will allow you to run the 26T rear sprocket to the limit, or at least very close.  Then, like you said, conditions will all be negative factors to that speed.

After watching "The World's Fastest Indian" I've really been wanting to pilot a motorcycle over 200mph.  Good luck and I look forward to hearing more.

[JMR]

Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?

[fj1289]

Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?

Yes - web cams.  I THINK 7.5mm shims - most were in the 280 - 290 range. 

 
Have you calculated theoretical top speed with the gearing setups you have?  I can only imagine that the horsepower the bike is going to put out, will allow you to run the 26T rear sprocket to the limit, or at least very close.  Then, like you said, conditions will all be negative factors to that speed.

I set up a table last night with some target speeds, gearing, and RPMs assuming 10, 15, and 20% tire slip.  I'll take a pic and post it later (forgot to pull the notebook out of my checked baggage).  Just ordered the rear sprockets - 33, 29, and 27 tooth versions.  Plan to take 18, 17, and 16 countershaft sprockets.  Here's a smaller chart showing the range of final drives available and how much overlap there is (26 tooth shown for comparison).   

33/16.      2.063
33/17.      1.941
33/18.      1.833

29/16.      1.813
29/17.      1.706
29/18.      1.611

27/16.      1.688
27/17.      1.588
27/18.      1.500

26/16.      1.625
26/17.      1.529
26/18.      1.444

With the 18/33 setup I'll still only be in 4th gear for the rookie run (have to keep it under 150mph)

Looking at the numbers, assuming 20% wheel slip, 18/27 should be (theoretically!) capable of 225 mph (class record is 221.241) so I figured no need for the 26 tooth sprocket.  Realistically I don't really expect to even use the 27 - pretty sure I'll hit the aero wall before then.  But then again, if the gods of speed are smiling, the salt is good, the bike is singing, and the winds are behind us, it sure would suck to speed limited just because you didn't buy one more sprocket....

[JMR]

Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?

Yes - web cams.  I THINK 7.5mm shims - most were in the 280 - 290 range.  

 
I knew they were Webs...were you warned about the 1.00 base circle? They do that often BUT don't list it unless it is a large cam. I have gotten in a jam with that shit. The Suzuki 7.5 work( kinda off in that range) but ideally it would be nice to add +.010 or so to stem length IF THEY TOLD WHAT WAS GOING ON!.
I have some Web hardweld rocker arms here and a cam (for a customer)....both have problems. The arms have rust (in the shaft bores and on the exterior) and the hardweld cam has pinholes from gassing out during welding (I'd guess). At least Megacycle packs the arms/cams in a sticky oil that never allows rust. 520.00 for 8 rocker arms and the cost of a hardweld and I do not want to see rust and pinholes.

[fj1289]

Are you using web cams in that engine? Are the retainers for the 13mm shims or the 7.5mm?

Yes - web cams.  I THINK 7.5mm shims - most were in the 280 - 290 range. 

 
I knew they were Webs...were you warned about the 1.00 base circle? They do that often BUT don't list it unless it is a large cam. I have gotten in a jam with that shit. The Suzuki 7.5 work( kinda off in that range) but ideally it would be nice to add +.010 or so to stem length IF THEY TOLD WHAT WAS GOING ON!.
I have some Web hardweld rocker arms here and a cam (for a customer)....both have problems. The arms have rust (in the shaft bores and on the exterior) and the hardweld cam has pinholes from gassing out during welding (I'd guess). At least Megacycle packs the arms/cams in a sticky oil that never allows rust. 520.00 for 8 rocker arms and the cost of a hardweld and I do not want to see rust and pinholes.

Yep, the reduced base circle is what bit us.  The choices that left us with was to either make the adjustments to the street head to run the reduced circle cams - and then not be able to return it back to street duty without another set of valves or another set of cams and retainers and buckets.  Or, mill off the spigots (and reopen the bottom manifold bolt holes that were welded over) on the dragbike head and not be able to return it to duty on the dragbike without coming up with some kind of manifolds.

You'd think they'd have a set of retainers (or keepers or something) that would correct for the reduced base circle, even if you'd have to then shim the springs up to make up for that distance (else something in the valve train would have to get a lot heavier than needed).

The dragbike head was setup by Fast by Gast out of New York.  Good work, but could have been a bit better in some respects.  I think he was going for max compression ratio and didnt unshroud the valves at all.  Not sure how much it may hurt the compression later on the dragbike, but I've got to think the added flow has to be a good thing for almost any use.  Evidently they sunk the valves to make up the difference on the reduced base circle. 

Live and learn...

[JMR]

Yeah....I don't think a different retainer would help as the shim sits on the valve stem and that controls the clearence. Believe me.....I know exactly how you feel.  I had to have custom valves made that were .015 longer with the keeper moved up the same amount to work with the old 13mm retainers. Luckily shimming a spring is easy. It is faster, easier and cheaper to grind the hell out of the base circle than to lay more weld on the lobes. Sinking the valves is really a last resort but it is easier and cheaper than custom valves (that's why people do it). If you know somebody with a Serdi you can blow a nice deshrouding cut around the intake seats/chamber and work from there. It helps keep the chamber volume consistent and is easy to do. It also won't introduce a lot of volume to the chamber which is a good thing considering the application.
I'll admit I was a bit surprised seeing your pic of the chamber as the intake ports had been worked and the FJ chamber can certainly use some extra attention.
Good luck with your project.

[JMR]

 Does

[fj1289]

Spent most of my time this week on fiberglass work -- modding the fairing, modding tail piece/ seat cowl, and fabbing a smooth undertail. 

I've received most of the parts for the nitrous system -- now just need a few fittings to finish it off. 

Ordered the rest of the parts needed -- sprockets, steering damper, short levers, double bubble windscreen.

Randy has the head back from the machine shop.  Shim kit ordered and should be there in time to finish the head early next week.  Hats off to Randy for getting this one handled.

I've learned how to make large fiberglass sheets from one or two layers of fiberglass cloth in large sheet cake pans.  Also did one in fiberglass mat, but is a lot harder to work with (it will be used for the seat).





Have used these for panels to close off the fairing scoop and headlight openings. Also for the seat cowl and undertail.  For these, will also be using some fiberglass "angle iron" made by laying up two layers of cloth between two pieces of angle.  Using aluminum angle on the "outside" mold creates a sharper corner for the angle.





Keeping the lay ups to 2 layers lets me cut the sheets with a pair of heavy duty scissors, be flexible enough to make gentle bends, but still hold its shape fairly well while working with it. 

Pics of the seat cowl early in the process.  The aluminum angle fastened to the cowl is used to replace the bolt holes that are part of the grab handles. 





Starting on the undertail.  Doing this to clean up the airflow in this area.  Rules for the class don't allow for rear huggers otherwise I definitely would run one.  The rear fender cannot cover any of the tire when viewed from the side.





Lots left to complete - but at least most of the "ideas" are starting to come to life now (even if most are still in the "rough" stage right now).

Plan now is to roll out the afternoon of the 7th and stop an hour or so away from Bonneville.  Then drive into Bonneville early on the 8th, get signed in, setup in the pits, and hopefully get thru tech.  Then the 9th begins with the drivers meeting, rookie orientation, and hopefully the rookie run!