handlebar risers, or ?

[red]

My FJ is running great.  I have the factory-original handlebars, so it's a long reach over the tank for me.  Now I want to try moving the hand-grips up and back by maybe 4 inches (10cm) or more.  I know there are riser plates and other tricks, but I am open to all suggestions on the best ways to go about this mod, preferably without breaking the bank.  Some extra width between hand-grips might be okay, but I would not want not too much more width.  The old posts here show some older hardware, but if anything better is available now, I am game for that.  If I need to get new hydraulic lines for this mod, I probably could live with that.

Any advice is welcome here.

Cheers,
Red

[Pat Conlon]

4" back is quite a bit...

If you're not stuck on this 4" measurement, why not try out the typical bar risers first? See if you like them.
Perhaps someone can lend you a set to try, before you purchase them?

"Without breaking the bank" is a subjective term which can mean anything. No help for us there.
To get the bars you want are you willing to spend $400? $200?.$80?

Quality handle bar conversion kits purchased off the shelf can be expensive. (e.g. Spiegler)
Especially depending on the handle bars you choose...you might need new clutch and brake lines...then again, might not...might need new longer throttle cables...might not.

Are you a DIY'er?  Whatever you do, invest in quality motorcycle components...handlebars are kinda important.
In all cases, absolutely no mountain bike stuff.

[aviationfred]

Here is a set of off the shelf solid bar brackets, handle bar and brake lines. This should give you an idea of what can be done. Price is $340.81 delivered from Germany.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260708982283?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648



Once you get a set-up similar to this, you can play with handle bars of varied pull back and height to get the riding position you like.

Keep in mind as stated previously by Pat. If you get too radical, longer brake/clutch and throttle cables will be needed.



Fred

[red]

4" back is quite a bit...  If you're not stuck on this 4" measurement, why not try out the typical bar risers first? See if you like them.  Perhaps someone can lend you a set to try, before you purchase them?"  Without breaking the bank" is a subjective term which can mean anything. No help for us there.
To get the bars you want are you willing to spend $400? $200?.$80?  In all cases, absolutely no mountain bike stuff.

Pat,

Yeah, that Spiegler's stuff would just about break the bank, here . . .  but still maybe one good approach, as a concept.  If anybody has hardware that I could try first, I'd be game, although I would not have asked for that much of a favor here.  I may not need as much "lift" as 4" but I do not want to spend a fortune on a half-inch riser, either.  I do not want to set a cost limit, but dollars count, so if somebody gives me choices, I would go for good engineering rather than the lowest possible prices.

Cheers,
Red

[Brian]

Hey mate, i wanted to bring my bars back too ,so what you can do is this
get a small offcut block of steel or alloy about 1/2 inch square & about 3/4 -1inch long ,then drill 1 end & counter sink it so the allen key head bolt is under the top surface it will screw into the thread in the triple tree so this becomes a 1/2 inch riser ,then put your bars on & bring them back to where you want them  then drill & tap/ thread the other end of the block depending where you want the bars to be pulled back to and screw the allen bolt thru the original hole in your bars and into the new threaded block , you now have a new position to clamp your bars to .
1 thing to watch out for though ,make sure you can get full turn each way & your bars dont hit your tank
total cost almost zero ,can get parts at any hardware store .
If i could work out how to send a picture i could draw it & show you what i mean, its too easy to do 

cheers Brian

[red]

Hey mate, i wanted to bring my bars back too ,so what you can do is this
get a small offcut block of steel or alloy about 1/2 inch square & about 3/4 -1inch long ,then drill 1 end & counter sink it so the allen key head bolt is under the top surface it will screw into the thread in the triple tree so this becomes a 1/2 inch riser ,then put your bars on & bring them back to where you want them 
If i could work out how to send a picture i could draw it & show you what i mean, its too easy to do 
cheers Brian

Brian,

Check PM.  That may be one good solution, if I can get enough change in the handlebars' position.  All help is welcome.  Thanks, mate.

Cheers,
Red

[red]

Here is a set of off the shelf solid bar brackets, handle bar and brake lines. This should give you an idea of what can be done. Price is $340.81 delivered from Germany.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260708982283?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
http://s119.photobucket.com/user/aviationfred/media/_576_zpsc2b4e6ca.jpg.html
Once you get a set-up similar to this, you can play with handle bars of varied pull back and height to get the riding position you like.
Keep in mind as stated previously by Pat. If you get too radical, longer brake/clutch and throttle cables will be needed.
Fred

Fred,

That Spiegler kit is probably the right thing for me, but I would not want their handlebars and hydraulic lines.  $340 is more than I would hope to pay for just the parts that I need, and if I want different handlebars, their hydraulic lines may not fit, anyway.  Any local hydraulic shop can make the custom-fitted braided hydraulic lines here, and they won't cost much.

Wish I could buy just the top plate and the handlebar clamps; any decent hardware manufacturer would suit me.  That Spiegler stuff is fairly expensive, anyway.  Thanks for the idea; for now, that plan would be the best way to go, for me.  Is there anybody making hardware like that in the USA?

Cheers,
Red

[jscgdunn]

Red,
I bought one of these by mistake.  I have not installed it on the bike but I did mock up with a triple and forks and it went  together fine..  I can get a measurement for you on the weekend. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-08-Yamaha-FZS600-FZ6-Top-Triple-Tree-Clamp-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-/231063226781


As someone said...if there is no pic it did not happen:





You can also see the FZ1 risers bolt on.  Might be an option.

Jeff

[red]

Red,
I bought one of these by mistake.  I have not installed it on the bike but I did mock up with a triple and forks and it went  together fine..  I can get a measurement for you on the weekend. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-08-Yamaha-FZS600-FZ6-Top-Triple-Tree-Clamp-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008-/231063226781
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2915/14152100143_b84e842c9b_z.jpg
You can also see the FZ1 risers bolt on.  Might be an option.
Jeff

Jeff,

Hey, those FZ1 stand-off posts just gave me an idea.  I think those FZ1 stand-offs are too tall, and I would want two bolts holding the stand-off to the top plate, not just one.  Now if we could find two-bolt stand-offs similar to the one in my picture, I could drill a stock FJ top plate to match, and mount handlebars to them.  Does anybody have a suggestion there?



The FJ top plate does have recesses underneath, but I can pack the recesses solid and smooth with fiberglass mat and epoxy.  I would use the highest quality bolts, of course, with washers and locking nuts on the bottom.  Advice and comments are welcome, here.

Cheers,
Red

[Capn Ron]

I'm definitely not a metallurgist...or a mechanical engineer, but looking at the FZ1 top clamp:



It sure looks like a lot of effort was made to distribute load into the aluminum...  Appears to be a sleeved steel insert...with rubber bushing material cushioning the inner steel sleeve which then takes the bolt.

Looking at it from the underside:



There is a *lot* of aluminum casting there to support those inserts.  It looks like measures were taken to strengthen the aluminum substantially AND avoid any steel bolt to aluminum movement/contact.

Not calling this one at all because I'm not qualified and I'm a bit afraid to...but I probably wouldn't ride yours if you do end up doing it.   

Cap'n Ron. . .

[jscgdunn]

Red,
The FZ1 riser raise the bars slightly more than the stock FJ.  Check out the FZ6 or the FZ8.  They both use the same rubber mounted (that's a good thing) approach but the risers are not so tall.


Regards,

Jeff

[Yamifj1200]

Remember that the FJ 1200's use 41mm forks and the early model FZ1's have 43mm forks.  I'm not sure you can clamp a 41mm fork into a 43mm bore unless you use something to take up that 2mm space.

Eric M

[red]

Remember that the FJ 1200's use 41mm forks and the early model FZ1's have 43mm forks.  I'm not sure you can clamp a 41mm fork into a 43mm bore unless you use something to take up that 2mm space.
Eric M

Eric,

Thanks, I do have the smaller fork tubes, and I would not even try to shim them to fit.  Great catch!  That saves me some real heartburn, there.  Much appreciated!

Cheers,
Red

[red]

I'm definitely not a metallurgist...or a mechanical engineer, but looking at the FZ1 top clamp:
http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/697_07_05_14_4_32_37_0.bmp
It sure looks like a lot of effort was made to distribute load into the aluminum...  Appears to be a sleeved steel insert...with rubber bushing material cushioning the inner steel sleeve which then takes the bolt.  Looking at it from the underside:
http://fjowners.com/gallery/7/697_07_05_14_4_32_40_1.bmp
There is a *lot* of aluminum casting there to support those inserts.  It looks like measures were taken to strengthen the aluminum substantially AND avoid any steel bolt to aluminum movement/contact.  Not calling this one at all because I'm not qualified and I'm a bit afraid to...but I probably wouldn't ride yours if you do end up doing it.   
Cap'n Ron. . .

Cap'n Ron:

Your concerns are noted, with thanks.  I really think the FZs are asking a lot from that single-bolt mount.  I plan to fill all the recesses underneath the top plate with industrial epoxy and fiberglass matting.  I will add the metal inserts (bushings) for the through-bolts, like those in the FZ top plate; I appreciate your input.  I will add an aluminum plate to the bottom of the FJ plate, of respectable thickness, bonded to the underside of the top plate with no voids.  To me, "engineering" is the art of using no more material than what is needed for the loads applied.  I have NO such ambitions here, but I will have a reliable structure when finished.  With four through-bolts to carry the stresses, not two, I think this project will be sufficiently "over-engineered" even for my cautious nature.  If not, I will still have an un-drilled factory top plate, to backtrack the bike into stock form again.

Cheers,
Red

[red]

Red,
The FZ1 riser raise the bars slightly more than the stock FJ.  Check out the FZ6 or the FZ8.  They both use the same rubber mounted (that's a good thing) approach but the risers are not so tall.
Regards,
Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for that, only I want the stand-offs to carry two bolts each, so I need to find something a little better than the FZs' hardware. 
Still lookin' for the right stuff, here . . .

Cheers,
Red