Handling

[NJona86FJ]

G'day
  This mostly hypothetical, since putting front end back together, feels good and solid no clicks or oddness forks feel good, except, handling. Turning to the right is easy, to the left is.... Firm?.... Requires a tiny bit more effort than to the right.
Now, I have done all my bolts up, forks are at spec. height and even, seals are good , both lower legs equal, 424 ml in each fork leg,10 weight oil, front tyre is worn RH side, brakes aren't dragging or rough,rear tyre isn't squared off.
Wondering if bent frame or wheel misalignment, has had a highish speed and a low speed accident enough to ding tank ( on each side, just not matching.....). I usually set my rear using to rules,, so I get the rear as even as possible. Going to string line the wheels this weekend to find out more but I would also like any thoughts  or input on this from experienced heads. I am allowing for the front tyre to not be assisting in handling at this point, but have ridden the front to worse conditions than this, and normally it just slides more or headshakes, not make it harder to change direction as it is now.
Cheers
Neil

[ELIMINATOR]

Was it the same before you took it apart?

[NJona86FJ]

G'day
  Lol no it was worse ! But in other ways, this is a new thing, fixed all the old issues. Only noticed it today on way home. It's not deadly, and being aware I can compensate if I need to but it's not that bad. Just a niggling thing. Just curious, I mean I assuming something has to be out somewhere. In my first post talking about rear wheel, I use 2 rules, not to rules. Damn fat fingers.

[Pat Conlon]

Sounds like your rear wheel is misaligned.

[andyb]

Sounds like your rear wheel is misaligned.

Or the head bearings are jacked, or the frame is bent, or the forks are twisted, or the swingarm is bent, or the tires are worn oddly, etc.

[Arnie]

Continuing on from previous possible suggestions.....

or you have some cables binding on the steering, or the wear on the front tire is combining with the excessive camber on many roads to give you this uneven feel.

[NJona86FJ]

G'day
Cheers fellas, all good. I know the bearings are in straight and true, the only cables that rub are the throttle cables but they have always done that. I know my forks are in square and true,  the swing arm would "rock" I imagine, I haven't checked that but I did grease my swing arm and linkages a while ago, and apart from some brinelling on swing arm shaft all was pretty good. I will check that and rear wheel again on weekend.
Thanks again.
Neil

[Bones]

G'day Neil, just out of curiosity, what tyre pressures are you running, The reason I ask is because you said your front tyre is worn on the right hand side. I can only put that down to low pressure, and with our camber on the roads wearing that side out, would feel more natural turning right than left.

I check my pressures weekly and have never had a tyre wear more on one side than the other. Also when I adjust my chain, I never use the markings on the swingarm to line my wheel up, I use a tape measure to measure from the big washer on the axle to the end of the swingarm where the adjusting plates are. Assuming the washers are the same size each side, you can't go wrong with alignment.

                                                                 Tony.

[simi_ed]

I never use the markings on the swingarm to line my wheel up, I use a tape measure to measure from the big washer on the axle to the end of the swingarm where the adjusting plates are. Assuming the washers are the same size each side, you can't go wrong with alignment.

                                                                 Tony.

Good tip Tony!  Thanks

[NJona86FJ]

G'day
  Yeah cheers tony, I try to run 36/38 psi front/rear I haven't checked them in a bit, I'll buy a pressure gauge tomorrow, at the rear I have been using 6"/12" rules, and measuring from the mark on the plate to the notchs on the arm itself, and as I mentioned its never really done it or I haven't noticed it due to other issues. I reckon your right, I was kind  of asking if the singarm markings were good, because the chat over the steering headwork with my father, he mentioned his 750 katana had a steering head or light twist in the frame and the swing arm marks were in accurate. Hopefully tee'd up a ride on Saturday so will get these things checked out before then!
Thanks aga

[NJona86FJ]

Damn fat fingers.
Thanks again everyone
Cheers
Neil

[andyb]

I check my pressures weekly and have never had a tyre wear more on one side than the other. Also when I adjust my chain, I never use the markings on the swingarm to line my wheel up, I use a tape measure to measure from the big washer on the axle to the end of the swingarm where the adjusting plates are. Assuming the washers are the same size each side, you can't go wrong with alignment.

Unless the swingarm is twisted or bent.

Save the trouble and make new marks as appropriate.  It's a pain to do, but once it's done, it's done.

[red]

G'day
  Yeah cheers tony, I try to run 36/38 psi front/rear I haven't checked them in a bit, I'll buy a pressure gauge tomorrow, at the rear I have been using 6"/12" rules, and measuring from the mark on the plate to the notchs on the arm itself, and as I mentioned its never really done it or I haven't noticed it due to other issues. I reckon your right, I was kind  of asking if the singarm markings were good, because the chat over the steering headwork with my father, he mentioned his 750 katana had a steering head or light twist in the frame and the swing arm marks were in accurate. Hopefully tee'd up a ride on Saturday so will get these things checked out before then!
Thanks aga

Neil,

I would not trust swingarm lengths, or marks on swingarms.  Get two lengths of conduit (or other rigid, straight poles), as long as the bike.  Put the bike up on the centerstand, on a flat, level slab.  Hook a bungee cord through the rear wheel to one pole, around the other pole, and back.  The rear ends of the poles should be behind the bike.  The bungee cord can pass through the wheel as many times as needed, to use the full length of the bungee cord, with each end of the bungee cord hooked to a pole.  The bungee cord only needs to be tight enough to support the poles at the rear wheel; you do not want or need to crush the tire, there.  The poles should be set below, and as close as possible to the rear hub, without touching any other part of the bike.  Adjust the rear axle position for the correct chain tension, while having the front wheel centered between the poles at the front.

If the front wheel is centered between the poles, then the rear axle alignment is correct.  I think you will find that the swingarm marks are not entirely accurate, and should not be used.

Cheers,
Red

[JCainFJ]

Neil,

Have you set the static sag on your FJ? When I setup my 89 to have 30mm of static sag in the front and 25mm of static sag in the rear, it was both more stable and lighter handling.

Ride Well,
Jon

[FJscott]

chain alignment tool from Motion pro is around $10, makes alignment dead nuts and simple.