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Stainless steel brake line questions

Started by shayes9761, March 10, 2014, 10:54:13 AM

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shayes9761

Hey guys,

I just picked up my new FJ yesterday (see the introduction post that I made - New FJ rider from NY for the way the bike is setup) and need to make the transition to SS brake lines before this riding starts (ASAP). 

So, what brand / supplier do you guys recommend for these lines?  Any advice in changing them that you can pass along?

Also, as you can see from my intro post the front forks have been changed FROM the 1986 FJ1200 TO the 1989 FJ1200 forks so I am assuming I need lines for the 1989 FJ?

Also, the rear has been switched FROM the 1986 rear wheel and calipers TO the 1990 Suzuki GSX-R 750 rear wheel and calipers so I am assuming I need the Suzuki line?  Now the question becomes, will that line be compatible on the ends with a Suzuki caliper and a 1986 FJ1200 rear master cylinder?

Thanks in advance!
Shawn Hayes

Firm believer in ATGATT
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2012 Honda Goldwing (GWRRA member)

FJmonkey

Find a hose shop near you, they can make braded brake lines on the spot. Bring your existing lines in and ask them to duplicate them. This can be important to get the angle and twist just right. They may have the fittings that rotate so the fitting takes care of the twist. The banjo ends are the same as far as size goes. Make sure you get new crush washers, 2 for every single line connection, 3 for every double line connection. 
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

markmartin

I'd reccommend Galfer lines.  They are designed so that the banjo fitting can be swiveled and they are excellent quality.  I had a hard time getting the orientation just right with lines from eBay manufacturers that make custom lines, and don't permit the swivel.   Maybe it's just me.  http://www.galferusa.com/brake-lines-for-street-sport-racing-motorcycles/

I ran 1 line from the master to a splitter then a line to each caliper on each side of the front wheel, but I've noticed that most people on this forum prefer the 2 lines to the master.

If I recall correctly, the GSXR rear brake uses a larger bolt at the caliper that the Yamaha does.  

I used clear tubing to estimate the length of the lines required.

Remember to allow a little bit of extra length at the front master if you plan on getting the bar risers in the future.  

aviationfred

For the rear brake line. I have put a Galfer line on. I used a standard length GSXR750 line and the ends lined up perfectly. For the front brakes I went with Goodridge http://www.goodridge.net/ I used the Gold line series which is a 2 line set. I ordered the 89' FJ lines and had no issue with the ends lining up.

Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1300 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Lazarus, the Streetfighter Project
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

FJmonkey

Important note: If you chose to change from one line at the brake master to two lines (bypassing the splitter), you will need to use a longer banjo bolt. Some consider the OEM splitter a source of trapped air and perfer to have a clean path from each slave to make sure they bleed thoroughly. I still use the OEM splitter with no issues. Brake feel is way better than the OEM rubber lines.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

FeralRdr

Quote from: FJmonkey on March 10, 2014, 12:06:37 PM
Important note: If you chose to change from one line at the brake master to two lines (bypassing the splitter), you will need to use a longer banjo bolt. Some consider the OEM splitter a source of trapped air and perfer to have a clean path from each slave to make sure they bleed thoroughly. I still use the OEM splitter with no issues. Brake feel is way better than the OEM rubber lines.

^^^^^ This! :good: ^^^^^

I myself put Spiegler brake lines (http://www.spieglerusa.com) on, and was very happy with the results.  After having issues with bleeding the OEM setup, I chose the 'Alt' 2-line configuration.  From my experience, it definitely was a lot easier and faster to bleed the brakes on the 2-line setup, as compared to the OEM configuration.  The Spieglers also have the adjustable banjo fittings for proper alignment, and also come with all the necessary hardware (appropriate banjo bolt(s) and crush washers) for installation.  Another nice option for the Spieglers is custom colors of the lines and fittings (at no additional charge).

Pat Conlon

+1 for Spiegler. They are expensive, but very nice lines.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

markmartin

Edit/ I checked my records / Spiegler lines is what I used, not Galfer.  Seems Galfer makes the swivel banjo lines also.   Yes the Spiegler were expensive-- $110 for 2 lines.  Ouch.  Nice lines though. 


shayes9761

Quote from: FeralRdr on March 10, 2014, 01:29:47 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on March 10, 2014, 12:06:37 PM
Important note: If you chose to change from one line at the brake master to two lines (bypassing the splitter), you will need to use a longer banjo bolt. Some consider the OEM splitter a source of trapped air and perfer to have a clean path from each slave to make sure they bleed thoroughly. I still use the OEM splitter with no issues. Brake feel is way better than the OEM rubber lines.

^^^^^ This! :good: ^^^^^

I myself put Spiegler brake lines (http://www.spieglerusa.com) on, and was very happy with the results.  After having issues with bleeding the OEM setup, I chose the 'Alt' 2-line configuration.  From my experience, it definitely was a lot easier and faster to bleed the brakes on the 2-line setup, as compared to the OEM configuration.  The Spieglers also have the adjustable banjo fittings for proper alignment, and also come with all the necessary hardware (appropriate banjo bolt(s) and crush washers) for installation.  Another nice option for the Spieglers is custom colors of the lines and fittings (at no additional charge).

Do you have a picture of how the lines come out of the master cylinder and how they are routed to the calipers?  Also, did the Spiegler kit come with the longer banjo bolt for the master cylinder as part of the ALT 2 line set up?
Shawn Hayes

Firm believer in ATGATT
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2012 Honda Goldwing (GWRRA member)

Arnie

The banjo bolt used at the splitter is a double.
If you're not using the splitter, use that banjo bolt at the master for a 2 line setup.
Make sure you either use new crush washers or properly aneal the old ones before re-use.

For those with A-D forks, the banjo at the front calipers is also a double.

aviationfred

Most of the stainless brake line kits will come with new banjo bolts and crush washers. The 2 line kits should also come with a double length banjo bolt.

Here are shots of how I routed my brake lines.

Rear Galfer GSXR750 stainless braded line.



Front Goldridge FJ1200 stainless 2 line kit.





Fred

I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1300 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Lazarus, the Streetfighter Project
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

ribbert

Spiegler Shmeigler etc, I don't have a preference for brand nor do I think it really matters but I would strongly recommend getting ones that allow you to turn the banjo. Unlike rubber lines these do not twist well, not even a little bit. If the banjo faces don't line up and you force it, the line will kick off to one side and remain under stress.
The adjustable banjo's come in two forms, a threaded banjo and locking nut or permanently fixed but rotatable ones, I think these even come with a tool to twist it without damaging the face.
2 lines or 3, doesn't matter. Difficulty bleeding the 3 lines with the splitter? Over rated.
If measuring the lines yourself, make sure the weight is off the front wheel so the forks are fully extended.

After the brake lines, the next most significant thing you can do to improve the brakes is EBC HH  pads. Much of the improvement these make is often attributed to other components but these things are the bees knees.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

ribbert

It's about time these got another plug.



Great product.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Capn Ron

Quote from: ribbert on March 10, 2014, 08:40:24 PM
It's about time these got another plug.



Great product.

Noel

+1...If the EBC HH pads are the bees knees, then the speed bleeders are the bees elbows.  Are we looking to make a complete bee here?   :scratch_one-s_head:

Seriously though...I agree that bleeding a split system is nearly the same as a dual line system.  There are places where air bubbles can get trapped, but after bleeding my ABS system, (Dry, SIX soft lines, TWO hard lines, SIX banjo bolts AND a splitter...JUST for the front end), I won't hear a single complaint about bleeding a splitter...  :nea:  In the end, I persevered and the speed bleeders saved my sanity.   :wacko1:

Cap'n Ron. . .
Cap'n Ron. . .


There are two types of people in the world...Those who put people into categories...and those who don't.

1tinindian

I also went with the two line Spiegler set up on the front and a Galfer in the rear.
"I want to be free to ride my machine without being hassled by the "man"!
91 FJ1200