Chain, chain, chain - Chain of LUV

[FJmonkey]

I bit the bullet and got a good chain and chain tool about 6 months ago. I have not adjusted it yet, I ride about 8K a year so I might get by with never adjusting the chain just cuz it needs it. It will get set/adjusted every time I put new rubber on.  EK-ZZZ or equivalent, clean it, lube it, ride the hell out of it. Nuff said. Move on... Nothing more to see here... I need new muffler bearing oil, any suggestions?

[FeralRdr]

I bit the bullet and got a good chain and chain tool about 6 months ago. I have not adjusted it yet, I ride about 8K a year so I might get by with never adjusting the chain just cuz it needs it. It will get set/adjusted every time I put new rubber on.  EK-ZZZ or equivalent, clean it, lube it, ride the hell out of it. Nuff said. Move on... Nothing more to see here... I need new muffler bearing oil, any suggestions?

Just use a fist full of Lard.  Slather it on and fire the engine up.  When it gets to operating temps, throw on 2 eggs, 2 pieces of bacon, and maybe some hash browns as well.   

[FJmonkey]

Just use a fist full of Lard.  Slather it on and fire the engine up.  When it gets to operating temps, throw on 2 eggs, 2 pieces of bacon, and maybe some hash browns as well.   

I am feeling the love... Monkey love... That was a great laugh, thanks....

[Burns]

a couple jalapenos will cut that hydrocarbon after-taste.

But before we go, on the topic of gearing that was raised earlier: this bike ('89) came with 17/40 sprockets, if I went 18/40 (for chain-friendliness and maybe some extra "m" in my MPG), would that substantially affect the zero to 10 mph (e,g, initial pull-away from a stop sign) ridability (e.g. require some clutch slippage)?

I'm an old man and ride accordingly. This bike will be North of 3 figures on the speedo only very rarely and has no competitive canyon carving in its future.

[markmartin]

Not on a 89 it isn't.  17/40.

Thanks Andy, you're right- 17/40.  I was going off memory, and my memory ratio is usually closer to 50/50.

Mark M

[markmartin]

But before we go, on the topic of gearing that was raised earlier: this bike ('89) came with 17/40 sprockets, if I went 18/40 (for chain-friendliness and maybe some extra "m" in my MPG), would that substantially affect the zero to 10 mph (e,g, initial pull-away from a stop sign) ridability (e.g. require some clutch slippage)?

I'm an old man and ride accordingly. This bike will be North of 3 figures on the speedo only very rarely and has no competitive canyon carving in its future.

I say it's not an issue.  YMMV.  I went from the stock 17/40 to 17/38 and then last summer went to 18/38.  The clutch slippage (the clutch isn't slipping, I'm just feathering out the clutch lever)  from a stop is probably a little more now, but of course one adjusts automatically and I really can't tell.  The only time I really noticed having to slip the clutch from take off was when we were riding 2-up, fully loaded with 3 hard bags and a tank bag packed for a few days of riding, and taking off from a stop going up a hill.

I like the lower RPMs this ratio puts out when out on the road. The FJ has plenty of snap for me even at 18/38.  I'm rarely above 6000 RPM.  I also like having a taller 1st gear.

I don't find the taller gearing effects the gas mileage.  

[movenon]

I have a 18/38 and am now thinking about going to a 17/38 combo. Just want a little more acceleration at lower RPM's around town.  Not to race but for traffic purposes.  Acceleration is a two edged sword, it can kill you or save you. That's just me, nothing wrong with 18/38. I am just zeroing in the bike for me.

MPG issue just doesn't compute with the FJ, its just not that kind of bike.  IMO going to a higher gear sometimes doesn't help the MPG without a more elaborate fuel control system.  The 18/38 is probably more chain friendly but I don't know really how much it saves you. Someone else will have to answer that.

I am not an aggressive rider I just want to be able to get out of harms way fast as reasonably possable when the situation arises (and it happens). Distracted drivers etc... Go's fast enough on the freeway even with stock gearing.

No one answer for everyone. Just have to trim it in for you. Use a good chain though what ever you do.....
George

[andyb]

Yes, going to a longer gear will make the bike measurably slower.  It'll be noticable only if you run against someone on shorter gearing side by side, it'll still have all the legs in the world for getting your scoot on.

Don't expect a big mileage improvement.  You didn't buy a machine with more than a liter of displacement just to worry about mileage.

Personally, I think stock gearing is just about ideal, but everyone has a different idea of what ideal is.  In theory, you should run sprockets that don't share divisors (17/40 = good, 18/41 = good, 16/48 = bad, etc) to retain good chain life, but it's an old rule and probably not worth more than a tiny amount.

[andyb]

Thanks Andy, you're right- 17/40.  I was going off memory, and my memory ratio is usually closer to 50/50.

If your memory is 50/50, then your thinking should be quite fast, it just takes quite awhile to get there.

Hrm...

[FJ_Hooligan]

In theory, you should run sprockets that don't share divisors (17/40 = good, 18/41 = good, 16/48 = bad, etc) to retain good chain life, but it's an old rule and probably not worth more than a tiny amount.

Andy,
That is curious logic for a chain and sprockets.  Is it similar to the logic used in odd ratio gearing on a bevel drive cam system?  The bevel gear ratio randomizes the gear tooth pairing so cam stresses don't constantly repeat on the same gear tooth pair leading to fatigue failure.

[andyb]

Precisely.  Seems like most people don't worry about it, so I can't imagine it's as much an issue anymore.  The last bike that a friend had with 15/45 gearing was gentle on chains because it had maybe 50hp at best, and I'm using 16/44 on my ZX9 without any noticable issue... but I'm using a really good chain, which I think makes more of a difference.

Probably made a much bigger difference in the days of singles/twins on non-oring chains.

[Burns]

Based on your collective wisdom I've decided to keep the stock rear tooth count and go with an 18T front (mostly for chain friendliness) and the ED 530ZZZ with rivet link.  Last question: is 110 links long enough to accommodate that extra tooth?

Thank you, Sirs.

[movenon]

Where are you buying your chain ? The one I got from http://www.indysuperbikes.com/product.php?productid=700059&page=1 was 120 links so I had plenty to fit. It was also the best price for that quality of chain at the time. I just checked and it is still 120 links of chain. On the WEB page check the product options link/arrow.
George

[simi_ed]

Yes.  I'm running 18/38 with 110 link chain.

[movenon]

Yes.  I'm running 18/38 with 110 link chain.

Ed, I think he is going to run 18/40 but I think 110 link will still work.  I can't give him a confirmed answer as I am running the same as you 18/38.
George