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Started by keand3, January 08, 2014, 01:13:59 PM

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FJmonkey

You could slot the head if you a Dremal like tool. But it does look like you can just spin it off with locking pliers.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

keand3

Quote from: FJmonkey on February 01, 2014, 11:10:56 AM
You could slot the head if you a Dremal like tool. But it does look like you can just spin it off with locking pliers.

I ended up cutting the head off. I then used a big locking plier to spin it out. Couldn't get a good grip with that head on.
Luckely i had two tank lock set, so i had spare screws so i was able to get the lockring mounted. But this time around i did not force bolt. I just twisted it back and forth until freely would screw itself down..  :good2:
I do love my new tank bag, its just awesome..

Anyway, the most important thing is that i was able to start her :dance2:
She didn't fire right up at first though. No wonder needed to give the battery some juice and crank it so the petrol would get circulated again... After that she fired right up :good2:

Kinda surrealistic, starting your motorcycle in the garage with 60cm of snow outside...
More pictures to come.
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

Joe Sull

That must good to know the bike is running again. I hope mine starts
You Keep What you kill

keand3

Quote from: Joe Sull on February 01, 2014, 03:56:20 PM
That must good to know the bike is running again. I hope mine starts

Yes, I regularly fire her up and let her run until shes good and worm. :smile: Emptying the fuelttank and carbs for fuel etc, and do all the propper work that's needed to be done, or following the storage procedure of the manual is to much work for me.. For me firing her up in when its cold works much better. A lot more fun too  :good2:
Allthough I know the big girl isn't so fond of idling too long...

Cheers
Ken
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

keand3

Okay, so i spent some hours in the garage tonight... The wife had the house filed with her friends. Boy did i need those hours..

I noticed immediately a smell of gas.. But could not see any leaks. I did move the bike to a better spot and started test fit the new painted fairing. It looks awesome by the way.

I needed to drill out the holes for the windscreen  some more but thats about it. Some how i have misplaced my package of fairing bolts and rubber grommits to go with them so i didn't want to mount it. Lucky call i guess.

On the floor there is a noticeable fuel stain, and i traced it back to the fuel tank. It had been dripping down on the carb and airfilter, and a small lake had garherd underneath on the rubbershild.
U thought dammit, now i have to buy a new petcock.  Luckily it turned out to be one of the petcock bolts that were loose. Could not see any more leaks after it was tightened.

I don't know how, but the glue holding my heat shield underneath the tank had start dissolving! I could without ease just peel the hole thing straight of. Might be the fumes from the fuel that cause it?

Anyway, it gave me the opportunity to check the fuel line, and i need to replace the main line from the petcock and down to the splitter..
Anyone know the dimensions on the rubber line that feeds tbe vacuum line to the petcock?

Cheers





Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

Joe Sull

I measured mine off my 85 and it's 24.7 cm long and it looks like 5mm id.
You Keep What you kill

FJ_Hooligan

I don't see any safety wire on that petcock!
DavidR.

FJmonkey

Good call on the safety wire! I was gonna mention it but you posted first. Ken, the fuel hose diameter is 10MM, 3/8" auto fuel line is 9.5MM and that is what I use. The tube wall is thicker but it fits and routs well enough, but you need to use larger clamps where you use the 3/8" hose.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

keand3

Good call, there isn't a safty wire in it.  :good2: I removed it when i cleaned up the mess. Don't worry, i will reattach a new one when i put her back together. :dance2:

Thanks for the dimensions. Will replace the hoses as soon as i get a hold of the right sizes.

Cheers
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

keand3

Have encountered a issue with my fzr rear wheel mod.
I was mounting the new back wheel and everything looked great, until i where about to change the pads.

As you can see of the pictures,  the caliper is close,  way to close to the brake disc itself. Its almost metall against metall.

I did fasten the rear axle some more i got slightly more room. After i aligned the chain and wheel i have got a few more mm of Clarence. But im not quite happy with it yet. Anyone who have experienced something similar?

I bought the parts pre machineed from Doc at the uk fj club,  and the parts seem to bee correctly machined.. Have sent him photos some days back but he haven't replied me yet.




Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

FJ111200

Are you using the correct collar or spacer for the wheel?  Is it in the right way round?  Just a thought.

Pat Conlon

That's no good. Too much of a offset. A little is ok but that's too much.

I can't see from the pictures, but can you put some spacer washers in to center the caliper?

I needed to do that with the YZF1000 (TAce) conversion on my bikes.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

keand3

Quote from: FJ111200 on February 25, 2014, 10:54:42 AM
Are you using the correct collar or spacer for the wheel?  Is it in the right way round?  Just a thought.

Yes, the collars also came in the package. Don't remember the sizes but the biggest one is in the brake disc side, between the rim and torque arm.

Pat,  so your saying i should add one more spacer on the right side?

Cheers
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103

Pat Conlon

Where the caliper bolts to the mount arm, 2 bolts, can you put washers between the caliper and mount?
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

keand3

Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 25, 2014, 11:37:55 AM
Where the caliper bolts to the mount arm, 2 bolts, can you put washers between the caliper and mount?


No, that would move the Caliper closer to the wheel and close up the gap i already have. I need to have it moved further away from the wheel to have the disc sentered in the caliper.

The photos are taken from behind the bike and Caliper.
I still have my OEM collars somewhere and that is somewhat thicker then the one that came with the package. I might try to see if that helps.
Whant to check out my photos on the bike??
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=828DDEC8DF631CA5%21103