finished giving my fj a service

[yampug]

finally got round to riding my fj today not ridden it for a few months due to it needing a major service, spent the last few weeks in the evenings doing a few jobs on it... valve clearances, new collector, cleaned and oiled pods, cleaned calipers, new spark plugs, balanced carbs, replaced carb diaphragms, fitted dynojet needles, fresh oil and filter, new back tyre, chain oiled.

huge difference to ride won't leave it as long between services next time riding it was like riding a new bike think the main thing that made the difference was the diaphragms being replaced no more snatchy throttle at low revs going round small tight bendy bits was so much easier, bike seems more responsive with dyno needles and much smoother since doing the clearances, gear changes are smoother with new valvoline 20/50 race oil, and i'm pretty sure it was doing more mpg 100 miles ridden and the needles showing half a tank.   

can't wait to get out for another ride.

[Joe Sull]

Do you use 20/50 no matter what temp it is?  I'm planing on flushing out my crank case with some cheap, light oil like 5/25 and I don't know what to put in for running. I do want to change it more often and use bulk oil (by the case) Say like every 1000 miles.

[FJmonkey]

Use what you like, I normally run 10/40, have 20/50 in now, not much difference that I can tell. As long as it is oil and has no friction modifiers then you will be good to go. I use a full synth and change it less often. But I ran on Dyno and blended for years with no explosions, so just change as required and get your Kookaloo on dude...

[aviationfred]

Use what you like, I normally run 10/40, have 20/50 in now, not much difference that I can tell. As long as it is oil and has no friction modifiers then you will be good to go. I use a full synth and change it less often. But I ran on Dyno and blended for years with no explosions, so just change as required and get your Kookaloo on dude...

+1     

Fred

[yampug]

started using 20/50 as recommended by the uk fj owners club when i bought my fj and just sort of stuck to using that ever since. did try some 10/40 once and it seemed to get through quite a lot of that.

was recommended not to use synthetic in the fj due to possibility of the clutch slipping.

[1tinindian]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic ad have had no issues with my clutch, FYI.

Leon

[yampug]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic ad have had no issues with my clutch, FYI.

Leon

good to know leon

i haven't tried synthetic purely based on taking advice from uk fj forum. opens up a world of different oils i can try. it's interesting comparing fj uk forum ideas to fjowners.com ideas.

[FJmonkey]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic ad have had no issues with my clutch, FYI.

Leon

good to know leon

i haven't tried synthetic purely based on taking advice from uk fj forum. opens up a world of different oils i can try. it's interesting comparing fj uk forum ideas to fjowners.com ideas.

Switching might give you some fits, I had some slip issues early on,  after that it all was good...

[Dan Filetti]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic ad have had no issues with my clutch, FYI.

Leon

+1

Dan

[rktmanfj]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic ad have had no issues with my clutch, FYI.

Leon

+1

Dan

Been using it ever since the redcap Mobil1 went away.

Had some slip, added the Barnett conversion, some 60k miles ago.

[yampug]

this is the oil i opted for - http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/racing/racing-motor-oil/6

any opinions?

[yampug]

taken from wiki-

Motorcycle usage

Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. (This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission). Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.


can't seem to find a uk equivelent

[Alf]

Hola

For FJs the best is dinosaur oil... or fish oil, that contain Omega 3... sorry, only joking. There are a lot of discussions on this matter in the forum.

Its not a coincidence that me (with more than 400.000 kms on FJs) or Phill Hacker recomend 20-50w (10-40w in cold climates) mineral oils
With expensive synthetic oils your bike will sound like a bag of nails, the clutch would slip and the valve seals get hardened. And with the big tolerances of an air-cooled engine will spend a lot of oil

All advantages, like you can see

Regards

[Alf]

can't seem to find a uk equivelent

Phill Hacker recommend Morris, originally formulated by diesel engines. It could be similar

[yampug]

can't seem to find a uk equivelent

Phill Hacker recommend Morris, originally formulated by diesel engines. It could be similar

think i'll stick with the valvoline vr1 i've got.  

bargain price as well £25 for 5 litres spec - API SN/SM/SL

edit: bugger - Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil is not recommended for use in wet clutches(use Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil)

back to the drawing board.