More Manshed Therapy Nov 16/17 SE QLD

[Bones]

I will be there. Need some help with undoing the damper rod bolt bolt and replacing the fork seals. Will have seals and ATF on hand.
Is there anything else I could bring down? Food, drink, more dancing girls ?

More dancing girls wouldn't go astray Stu. brunette, maybe a redhead for a change....

I will bring the Allen key bizzo for the damper rod bolt that you can use with either a ratchet wrench or rattle gun. Can bring that too if you want it
Have you got an old broom handle Ray we could use for reassembly, I used that for my fork seal change, worked a treat.

                                                    Tony.

[X-Ray]

I should have something on hand Tony, although looking at the vids we shouldn't need it, they make it look easy,  

[Bones]

 It depends Ray if your forks have been done before or not. Mine had new seals put in long before I got it and I had a hell of a time getting the damper bolts out because they were locktighted in.

That was actually the hardest thing to do, once they were out the rest was plain sailing.

                                                         Tony.

[X-Ray]

Mmm, ok. Yeah my seals were last done in 2001 at City Yamaha, so I know they are well overdue. Should be fun.

[Arnie]

Hey guys, the damper rod has a 12pt 27mm (1 1/8") hex socket in the top.
While a broomstick may work, it is pretty easy to make a "proper" tool to hold the damper rod from turning.
If you can find a bolt with a 27mm head and weld the threaded part to a socket so you can just use extensions and a rachet handle, that would be ideal.  OR a 3/4" bolt should have a 1 1/8" head, so weld that to a socket.
OR jam either bolt into a piece of pipe and dent the pipe to hold it in place and use ViceGrips on the other end of the pipe.

Have fun :-)

Be careful that the constabulary don't consider any tools you are carrying to be weapons.

[FJmonkey]

My fork cap is a 6 point, I wonder if they changed over the years. I also hear that the real axial nut works in a pinch to the caps off....

[Arnie]

Monkey,

The fork cap is either a 6pt recess or a 6pt raised hex depending on the year.
So, for the early years the rear axle nut will work.

I was talking about the damper rod (where the RPM fork valves sit) in the fork lowers.
The tool I was describing is to keep that damper rod from turning while you unscrew the 10mm socket head bolt  from the bottom of the forks.

Arnie

[movenon]

Monkey,

The fork cap is either a 6pt recess or a 6pt raised hex depending on the year.
So, for the early years the rear axle nut will work.

I was talking about the damper rod (where the RPM fork valves sit) in the fork lowers.
The tool I was describing is to keep that damper rod from turning while you unscrew the 10mm socket head bolt  from the bottom of the forks.

Arnie

Here is some misc front fork pictures.  For the fork top cap and the top of the dampener inside the fork of my 1990 FJ,  I also use a 18mm bolt (has a 27mm head) I welded a junk 3/8 inch drive socket on to it. The bolt was 3" long but that's not critical. The bottom of the fork I use a 10mm hex socket.
The last picture is how I disassemble a fork by myself using a vice to hold a drive wrench. Hope it helps. This is a 1990 FJ fork.








George

[Alf]

Please, do my a favour in order to help me in my FZR/FJ fork conversion: measure the damper unit length, to compare with the FZR damper unit

More details here

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10309.0

Thanks

[X-Ray]

Great info, thanks Arnie and George. On my '92 the actual top fork caps are easy to get off, the bottom damper rod Allen bolt may be the one that causes issues, but on the day I don't think we'll have any problems. I think that video that shows cracking the bottom Allen bolt with the forks still assembled and under pressure has some merit, I'll be trying that first.   

[oz.fj]

LB and I will be there
Missed out on getting my order into Randy on time. So won't be doing my forks.
Will bring my Monkey made fork tool and carbtune down with me.
See ya Saturday
Darran

[X-Ray]

Sounds good Darran, I forgot to ask you the other day if LB was coming along.

I'm going to pick up a new bench vise with aluminium inserts on Thursday, the 40 year old narrow thing Alenas dad gave me ages ago is a bit small for fork work 

[movenon]

Great info, thanks Arnie and George. On my '92 the actual top fork caps are easy to get off, the bottom damper rod Allen bolt may be the one that causes issues, but on the day I don't think we'll have any problems. I think that video that shows cracking the bottom Allen bolt with the forks still assembled and under pressure has some merit, I'll be trying that first.  

Try that first. Most likely you will still need to remove the top cap and have a second person hold the dampener with the 27mm hex tool (18mm bolt head) while you loosen the bottom 10mm hex.

For Alf, my front forks are already back in the bike. Hopefully one of the OZ group will measure the dampener length for you. 
George

[Arnie]

If you have a "rattle gun" (pneumatic impact wrench) you will have a much easier time getting that 10mm socket head cap screw out of the bottom of the forks.  Even a broomstick will usually work to hold the damper rod from turning.  Without the "rattle gun" you'll need the tool George and I've been talking about.

(Thanks George for the pics)

Arnie

[YFJ-12]

  Bugger, I was thinking it was 23rd Nov & just promised someone I would do a job for them sat. morning.  I'll still try to get there by midday.  Paul (Burleigh)  

All I want to do is an oil & Filter change. I have a K&N filter, but does anyone have a recommendation on engine oil ??