85 FJ1100 refurbishment/custom

[Joe Sull]

When I cleaned the needle seats the first time. I had to clamp on them with plyers to get them out, I used Pats method and stuck the shank of a drill in the seat and clamped against that. The seat measured .209 inside. The shank measured .207
At least 2 of them were out of round. I looked at the needles with a glass and they look ok, but I put the seats back in the way the were.
Today I'll take them out and work them back round best I can and polish the inside then try to find some orings that will work.

[Arnie]

Randy, rpmracingca.com, has the right O-rings.

IIRC when Dr. David Raforth put together the carb cap screw and O-ring kit (many years ago) these properly sized O-rings were a bit difficult to obtain. 
I think they are 9mmOD x 2mm Xsection, but I could be very wrong.

Arnie

[Joe Sull]

I got it It took a couple of hours to work the seats round again. I cut q-tips in half, mounted them in a high speed drill, I dipped them in dremmel polishing compound and polished the insides of the seats. I made sure the needles worked smooth. Mounted them and put the gas to them. No leaking at all! NO oil leaks either.


It running lean for sure. I assembled the carbs like the tutorial, 2 1/2 turns out on the needle jet. I should open that up to 4 ?
I bench sync'd them, Ill be making one of those $5 sync tools. It is running off choke but it took a while. I won't be running the intake box anymore, probably get some cheap singles so I need all the gas I can get. I have the 37.5 jets in till I can change them out. The gas I used came out of my generator and didn't look that good be the best thing is it didn't leak.

I got a video and uploaded to utube.

running fj

She warmed up and it baked some paint. The exhaust turned darker and I like the color. I can see where it needs some extra paint. I got a full can to do that. I'm happy, It's running.

[andyb]

IIRC when Dr. David Raforth put together the carb cap screw and O-ring kit (many years ago) these properly sized O-rings were a bit difficult to obtain. 
I think they are 9mmOD x 2mm Xsection, but I could be very wrong.

And here's what he says about them.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1391.0

[Arnie]

Thanks Andyb for correcting my failing memory on the sizing. :-)

[movenon]

IIRC when Dr. David Raforth put together the carb cap screw and O-ring kit (many years ago) these properly sized O-rings were a bit difficult to obtain. 
I think they are 9mmOD x 2mm Xsection, but I could be very wrong.

And here's what he says about them.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1391.0

Here's the ones I bought http://www.oringsandmore.com/viton-oring-7-1-x-1-6mm-price-for-25-pcs/  I could probably find 4 to send you 
George

[Joe Sull]

Still waiting for my paint job. I had time to get the bottom of the tank prep'd. Wasn't going to bother with the bottom because of trying to reglue the heat shield back on but I guess I'll try contact cement. I got my petcock all ready. Epoxyed the elbow in and cleaned the inside. Everything looks good. I can pull a slight amount of air by causing a suction on the vacumm tube but very little. I wired it up and ready to bolt in.



Just waiting for my son to get his bike painted.

[keand3]

Still waiting for my paint job. I had time to get the bottom of the tank prep'd. Wasn't going to bother with the bottom because of trying to reglue the heat shield back on but I guess I'll try contact cement. I got my petcock all ready.

Man, you really do go all the way out, don't you? Doing red underneath the tank as well!?! Cudos to you man, cudos.... 

I to need to reglue my heatsheild... After my fuel leak had been laying a couple of days I guess the fumes must have dissolved the old clue.. Everything could just peel off...
I will not be painting it blue underneath though 

Cheers

Ken

[rktmanfj]

I will not be painting it blue underneath though  

Leaving it red as a tribute to Joe's bike, then?  

[keand3]

I will not be painting it blue underneath though  

Leaving it red as a tribute to Joe's bike, then?  

Yes! It's worth it!  

[Joe Sull]

You can see my bike was red in the begining. Now it's red all over, more than anywhere else. Red is'nt really my favorite color it's just that theres so much beauty in the engine area and it was covered with black. I came very close to doing the whole thing with the metalcast green and the body candy apple green.
I no one thing though - I gotta keep you guys guess'n

[keand3]

I no one thing though - I gotta keep you guys guess'n

+1 

[X-Ray]

Three hours masking


Ready for clearcoat tomorrow.

How did you prep the wheels Joe? I'm thinking of doing something similar with mine after the Australian Rally. Was thinking of powdercoating, but I'm thinking now either the Metalcast or the VHT Anodized spray paint in Candy Blue might be worth a go. Are you happy with your results? Looks great to me,

Regards
Ray

[ribbert]

How did you prep the wheels Joe? I'm thinking of doing something similar with mine after the Australian Rally. Was thinking of powdercoating, but I'm thinking now either the Metalcast or the VHT Anodized spray paint in Candy Blue might be worth a go. Are you happy with your results? Looks great to me,

Regards
Ray

I'm a big fan of this product Ray. It's a polyurethane paint. Doesn't chip. I painted my underslung caliper with it a couple of years ago and that gets a lot of crap bouncing off it being so low. You can see tiny dents where stones have hit but no chips. I think it comes in a good range of colours too, or, it is available in clear to protect any paint or colour you like.
This particular colour is also a perfect match for the original frame silver. Good for the down tubes at the front that seem to get a lot of chips.



I guess that's why it's wheel paint.

Noel

[movenon]

How did you prep the wheels Joe? I'm thinking of doing something similar with mine after the Australian Rally. Was thinking of powdercoating, but I'm thinking now either the Metalcast or the VHT Anodized spray paint in Candy Blue might be worth a go. Are you happy with your results? Looks great to me,

Regards
Ray

I'm a big fan of this product Ray. It's a polyurethane paint. Doesn't chip. I painted my underslung caliper with it a couple of years ago and that gets a lot of crap bouncing off it being so low. You can see tiny dents where stones have hit but no chips. I think it comes in a good range of colours too, or, it is available in clear to protect any paint or colour you like.
This particular colour is also a perfect match for the original frame silver. Good for the down tubes at the front that seem to get a lot of chips.



I guess that's why it's wheel paint.

Noel

After keeping an eye out for that Ford Argent Silver for sometime now,  yesterday at a new Autozone store there it was on the shelf !  So I bought a can for some touch up. 

Another product to consider is ACF-50.  It is popular with the FJ riders across the pond.  I haven't tried the product so I am not of any help there.  If you live in a high humidity or coastal area / wet area it might be something to consider.  The link below is a spec sheet.  Type in ACF-50 in your search engine to locate retailers. 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/ACF-50-BROCHURE.pdf

George