Clutch adjustment

[eeshed]

I'm having a problem with getting to neutral from first gear while the bike is standing in traffic light. The master was replaced with a VFR 800 master, and the slave is by RPM. The lines are still original. I am suspecting that the clutch is not fully disengaged while the bike is standing, and that may cause the hard shift to second or neutral. Is there any way to adjust the clutch? I also think that it may be the line bleeding, which I did with vacuum. Any suggestions for bleeding the clutch?
Thanks,
Eyal

[FJmonkey]

I have the same issue, try bringing up the revs a little, low RPMs seems to make finding neutral difficult. Just a light quick blip and it pops into/out of gear.

[andyb]

A hydraulic clutch isn't adjustable in the normal sense of the word.

Sure sounds like there's air still in the lines though.

[higbonzo]

Have you recently replace the clutch disc? 

Try holding the clutch in more frequently, or holding clutch lever in for a long time to let the oil get splashed over all the surfaces.  You can normally hear the difference when the clutch is engage and disengage in these engines.  They tend to have a chatter, don't know why, but they do.  Mine is so tight it takes quite a bit of time holding the clutch in before the disc get good and loosened up.  Also, different oils have impacts on how well your clutch will work.

Don't know if this helps, but it is worth a try. 

Later.....

[eeshed]

Thanks for the info. My clutch is disengaged with full lever pull. The problem is that in 1st and second, while the bike stands, I get too much friction on the clutch and I can hardly shift from 1st to second; forget about finding neutral. It feels almost as I need just a bit longer stroke on the slave for a complete disengagement.

My master cylinder is a 2000 FVR 800. I will try the following:
- Replace the master with the FJ's - and test
- If the problem is with the master - rebuild the master.
- If the problem continues - replace the lines with stainless steel.

I bled the line first with vacuum and further with releasing the nipple, level push, lock, and lever release. I don't think I have air in the lines.

Eyal

[higbonzo]

Try this, put the bike in 1st gear before you first start the bike in the morning, put up the kick stand, pull in the clutch and start the bike.  If it wants to go forward with the clutch in, it could be your oil, or the fact the clutch plates are not warmed up.  Some clutch disc are more of a pita than other, as well as the oil can make a difference.  Plus, I think these bikes can be inherently difficult between gears, but mine does the exact same thing and once I get the plates good and warm and covered with oil, the problem disappears.  That is why I suggest holding clutch in for a period of time because this lets the oil really get in between the plates. I knew the clutch disc I purchased had the tendency to need time to warm up when I purchased them.  I tell you one thing, they don't slip.

I have no problems what so ever with my slave cylinder or clutch lever.  all new fluid and completely bleed out.  clutch pushrod is not bend. etc......  If someone has definite solution to the issue I would like to hear it.

Good luck.

later.....

[andyb]

Start with the obvious stuff:

So you've replaced your clutch master, have ya?  What was it like with the old one?  A sticky plate(s) within the basket assembly would have shown up then as well, but can be masked by a crappy master--you know, the type that you tend to replace.

Sticking clutch plates will tend to do it only when the bike has sat a bit, like the first engagement when you're just trying to get out of the driveway, and then will go away after that first crash into gear.  Aftermarket plates are commonly to blame for this, there's a reason why pro dragracers use OEM fibers.

A grooved basket or hub will show up as a sticking plate that happens even when warm, but otherwise will give much the same effect.  You're not going to have this unless you've got a lot of miles or some unusual wear because of maltreatment.  It's easy to check for if you're pulling the clutch pack out, just run your fingers or better, a pick along the surfaces that the ears or steels slide on.  If it's really bad, you'll notice it right away because the plates will be annoying when you're pulling the clutch pack.

If you've got air in the lines, you'll get reduced motion at the slave, and the clutch will tend to disengage with the lever really close to the bar.  Basically it'll do it because you're not pulling the lever far enough, thus not getting enough motion at the pressure plate, because the handlegrip is in the way.

If it's very recently changed, it takes a bit to get the slave moved out to where it needs to be.  The bleeding process should handle this easily enough.  Like having to pump up your brakes after a wheel removal or brake service.

An oil that doesn't get along with the plates can cause sticking, but that should be just a problem on the first clunk of the day usually, unless there's blocked oil supply holes or something.  Dragracers will hold the clutch in and lean the bike to the right sometimes in an effort to get more oil onto the plates, to make the launch engagement smoother.

If you've changed to a very thick grip, that'd be exacerbated, but shouldn't be a problem if everything's working as designed.

If you've changed to a clutch master that has a smaller bore and made too big of a change, you'll get functionally the same problem as if you've got air in the line; the slave won't move far enough.  Dunno that I've ever heard of one doing this, maybe if you have a dirtbike master or something otherwise really unusual.





If everything is in good working order, 9 out of 10 times there's just a bit of air in the lines.

[Pat Conlon]

Spot on Andy, great post!