Synthetic Mobile 1

[Tex]

   Ok so the original owner of my FJ used Mobile 1 in her. If I was to switch to 15/40 diesel oil would that cause problems.  Is that what you guys would use? Should I just stay with synthetic? If so what weight?

   Question two when I got her home both the break and clutch have nothing to them. What would cause that? She was sitting for 8 years.

   On a good note I put a new battery in and all electrical works. 


Scott
1993 FJ 1200 ABS

[FJmonkey]

You just asked the OIL question, its like lighting the fuse to  bomb  and hoping it won't explode..... Many have had issues switching between oil types, Full synth vs. dino. I had issues for a short time and then all was well. Use what you want, or stick with what is in the bike and don't worry too much. Change it when it needs it, don't let it run dry and you will be fine. The RPM spin-on oil filter adapter is nice to have for oil changes, I call it the gateway drug to modifications... www.rpmracingca.com

[Tex]

Yeah I knew it was a bad question. I just didn't know how to handle it. I would rather not spend the extra on synthetic plus I couldn't find 15/40 synthetic.  Well without lighting the bomb is 15/40 what I should be using regardless of type? I already purchased the spin on mod and installed it. Was just trying to decide on the juice.

Also what about the brake and clutch. I get nothing out of either one of them. How should I go about trouble shooting. What would cause this. Just weird how they both are soft.


Scott

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Scott, re: brake and clutch systems, yea, that happens with bikes that have been stored for years.
You need to remove all the old DOT 3/4 fluid from the reservoirs, clean them out, and pour in fresh fluid, them using the levers, or a MityVac, bleed out all the old fluids from the lines, calipers and slave cylinder.

Mobil 1 is fine as long as it is the motorcycle grade Mobil 1 not the automobile oil. The Mobil 1 auto oil contains additives that can cause your clutch to slip, the motorcycle grade Mobil 1 is safe for wet clutches.
10w-40 is a good all around grade, 20w-50 for hot weather riding. 10w-30 for cold weather

There are many good oils out there.....avoid automotive oils with energy efficient additives. When in doubt, avoid automobile oils altogether. Look for a motorcycle oil that says "safe for wet clutches".

Everyone has a favorite oil......The key is to change it often.     Cheers Pat

[Tex]

Thanks Pat. That makes me feel better about clutch and break.

And thanks on the oil advise. I just didn't want to put in the wrong stuff.

Thanks again

Scott

[Tex]

BTW here are some pics of her.

[Tex]

[Pat Conlon]

You scored Scott, good for you.   I love my '92....

Also....Smart move on changing the mounting location on those CBR mirrors. The oem mounting points on the fairing stays are much stronger than where the PO had them mounted on the thin windscreen plastic.
At 100mph+ you do get some force on those mirrors from the wind resistance (coefficient of drag)

[1tinindian]

Sorry

This person moved or
deleted this image.

[Bones]

BTW here are some pics of her.

See.... these things are bulletproof.

[1tinindian]

I seem to be the only one unable to see the pictures?

Leon

[Capn Ron]

I've run Mobil1 in most everything for the last 20 years in application-specific viscosities and types.  Pat is spot on with his advice...heed Pat!

By the way, that is a great looking bike!

Sorry, I actually can't see the pictures either...I was just giving Leon some crap.   

Cap'n Ron. . .

[Tex]

Ops sorry. Was messing around with photobucket.   

[Tex]

[Tex]

That should work.