89 1200 FJ viberation

[Oman75]

Need to hear from other FJ owners. My 89 FJ starts to vibrate at 3,00 RPM, which is 55MPH with my gearing. At 4000 RPM it is not as pronounced which is 70 MPH. I never noticed it until I had the handle bars moved back and up. When I said back I mean I can ride in an upright position. By the way lead shot was added into the interior of the bars in order to reduce the viberation. Appreciate some feed back.

Oman75

[cyclenutk75]

Sounds exactly like my 89, Oman.  A carb sync may help alleviate some of the vibration.  Also, you could change your gearing to achieve 4k rpm at a lower speed if that suits your riding style.  Oh...and I've heard good things about the Vibranator bar ends sold by Randy at RPM.

GT

[yamaha fj rider]

Sync the carbs. If it was a 91+ then lube front engine mounts also.

Kurt

[JCainFJ]

Check all of the bolts that attach the frame "down tubes". The bolts that attach the rear of these tubes work loose and even break. You will have to remove the footrest mounting plates to get to them. 2 were broken on my 89 and one was missing.

[ken65]

i put on a set of grip puppies which has just about stopped my throttle hand going numb and tingly.   ken

[X-Ray]

I went through this with mine, did the lead bearings in the handlebars trick, didn't really work. What did work was a combination of (for me anyway) --
*Remove/clean/lube the front engine mounts
* Sync Carbs
* Add a set of Vibranators.

Now its pretty much turbine smooth, still get the odd tingle through, but I think thats to be expected with an inline aircooled 4.

[movenon]

I had 7/8 bars on and and had a notable increase in vibrations at the bar ends. I did all the old bike tricks plus the lubing of mounts and I can't say much helped. Then I spent some time syncing the carbs and all was good.

As a note I am going back to the stock FJ clip ons. I found that the 7/8 bars while putting me more upright was OK for around town but when out on the freeway at higher speeds that it put me out of the design parameters for the stock FJ windscreen. At 110 plus it just didn't work well. Maybe with a taller windscreen it would be better.

I am going with gel grips with "Grip Puppy's" on top. Giving some thought to also slipping grip heaters between the gel grips and the Grip Puppy's. I see that Cycle Gear has the heat pads on sale for 20 bucks. Also going to  install a taller windscreen or one with and adjustable wing.

My only advise to your vibration problem is to take some time and sync the carbs. Sync them at 1050 RPM and check them up around 3000 RPM to see how they are preforming.  Also keep the weights on the bar ends there is a good reason Yamaha put those heavy ass weights there. 
George

[markmartin]

My only advise to your vibration problem is to take some time and sync the carbs. Sync them at 1050 RPM and check them up around 3000 RPM to see how they are preforming.  Also keep the weights on the bar ends there is a good reason Yamaha put those heavy ass weights there.  
George

I sync mine at 3000 RPM.  That's  closer to where the motor spends most of it's time and where I want sync.  It idles fine after it's warm.  It works for me.
I put on Vibrinators (sp?) that I got at RPM and like them alot.  I'd still sync the carb though.

If you've got time available, I'd remove the fairing and look for and repair cracks.   Torque all nuts and bolts where you can, zip tie wires where you can, etc. etc.

When I got mine it seemed like everything was vibrating. The fairing was buzzing and had a few good cracks that did not show from out side, one fairing scoop was missing an inner screw, the little protectors on the fairing, the tail light, the head light, the speedo assembly, the fairing was rubbing on the inner fairing and that was buzzing, the chin fairing was cracked and buzzing, the door on the little key shash thingy on the inner fairing was buzzing, I had a busted tab on my front fender and that was probably buzzing too.  I'm not sure if this all transfered to the handle bars, but it did stop that cresendo of buzzing at a certain RPM.

Mark M

[ribbert]

I am going with gel grips with "Grip Puppy's" on top.
George

These would make a better conversation piece!

[yamaha fj rider]

The engine mounts were changed on the 91 and they don't need to be serviced on the earlier models if I understand correctly. On my 93 this made a huge difference and mine weren't in bad shape, just came right out. No puller necessary and just a little dry. This is now an annual maintenance item.

Keep the wheels turning.
Kurt 

[movenon]

I am going with gel grips with "Grip Puppy's" on top.
George

These would make a better conversation piece!

Noel, I already have a problem with the other half related to the clad lady on the back of my helmet, if I had those to boot I my be wearing the boot  
George

[RichBaker]

I am going with gel grips with "Grip Puppy's" on top.
George

These would make a better conversation piece!

Noel, I already have a problem with the other half related to the clad lady on the back of my helmet, if I had those to boot I my be wearing the boot  
George

Internally?   

[CelticTiger]

Don't mean to hijack the tread fellas, but I am at my wits end regarding the cursed vibrations on my 92 non abs model . I took the bike for a 400. Mile/600km run last weekend,,  and I was in bits afterwards. After about 20 mins the tingling in my hands gets so bad that my hands go completely numb. Again, it's worse at lower speeds, but I was on motorway for the last  100 mile stretch, and let me tell you, its no fun riding at motorway speeds with ABSOLUTELY NO FEELING IN EITHER HANDS.

I have synced the carbs. No difference. I have removed the front engine mounting on either side, no appreciable improvement. Just below those front engine mounts, there runs a bolt right through two rubber mountings. When I removed them, one was flexible, one like concrete. Is there any way to 'service' those. Is it possible/ advisable to service any of the other engine mounts.

This problem has stumped my senior technical mentor. With only 24,000 miles on the clock (means that might be just the work the clock did) he suggested checking the timing chain. What do you think??? Someone mentioned torque settings, where would I get a list of those???

Thanks in advance,

Conor

[andyb]

Do you have the stock bar ends on it? 

Get a service manual for torque specs.

24k on the motor means the timing chain shouldn't be too far gone just yet.

I've got a 90 that used to put my hands to sleep in 15 minutes.  Synched the carbs at 3krpm and it was glassy smooth afterwards.  We'll assume that you've not got the wrist straps on your gloves too tight, and haven't had the problem on other bikes with your current gear (certain gloves do it to me no matter what I'm riding).  I'll agree that it's no fun riding when you don't actually know if your fingers are on the brake lever or not!

I believe servicing the rubber bits is shorthand for replacing them, yes... particularly if they've lost their flexibility.

[rktmanfj]

My '89 used to bother my hands because of the bar angle.

When I installed the YZF fork, I splayed the bars out about 10 degrees, and that took care of the problem.