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Occasional wobble

Started by JPaganel, May 25, 2013, 09:06:39 PM

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movenon

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on May 26, 2013, 11:06:03 PM
I will not over tighten it.
Only recently started to do it and only when hands are of the bars.
I would just snug it up but im sure it needs new grease after all its 28 years old.

That's all I did to mine. The tool I made is mostly handy for using a TQ wrench (inch lb) on it. I TQ'd mine to spec and I didn't like the way it felt so I went "old school".

Wheel in the center tightened up until it didn't "tip" over on it's own weight and then loosend it up to where she just bairly "falls" under her own weight. Hard to explain, I was taught this method many years ago from an old timer. Now I am old........  :dash2:  Not saying it's the right way, just my way.
George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

ribbert

Quote from: movenon on May 26, 2013, 11:23:00 PM

That's all I did to mine. The tool I made is mostly handy for using a TQ wrench (inch lb) on it. I TQ'd mine to spec and I didn't like the way it felt so I went "old school".

Wheel in the center tightened up until it didn't "tip" over on it's own weight and then loosend it up to where she just bairly "falls" under her own weight. Hard to explain, I was taught this method many years ago from an old timer. Now I am old........  :dash2:  Not saying it's the right way, just my way.
George


I agree George, I use a variation on theme. Same as tapered wheel bearings. Tighten up until there's no play and back off a whisker. Feel gives a better result than trying to apply a specification to it.

The grease they use in there gets very hard over the years and unlike most bearings, they don't spin and spend most of there life in the one position.
Removing, washing out and re-greasing these is an excellent idea if it hasn't been done for a while.

Noel

"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

ribbert

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on May 26, 2013, 11:06:03 PM
I would just snug it up but im sure it needs new grease after all its 28 years old.

I wouldn't even bother adjusting it if the grease is original. It's worth the trouble to take them out and wash them.
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

ribbert

Quote from: andyb on May 26, 2013, 10:25:03 AM
My masters are apparently at a much different angle than yours :)


It's been a while since I had mine off, but isn't there a location pin?
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

JCainFJ

My 89 did this until I set the static sag to 30mm front and 25mm rear. Static sag is the amount the suspension compresses under the weight of the motorcycle and rider. All it takes is some time and some spacers!


Race-Tech's website has lots of good info.


http://racetech.com/page/id/30#3


Q: What is "Race Sag" (Static Sag)?
A: Static Sag or Race Sag is the amount the bike compresses from fully extended, with the rider on board.

Here's how to measure it.

1.First extend the forks or shock completely and measure from the wiper to the bottom of the triple clamp on forks or from the axle to a vertical reference point on the chassis. This is L1.
2.Take the bike off the stand, put the rider on board in riding position. Get an assistant to balance the bike or have the rider hold onto something, compress the suspension about 25mm (1") and let it extend very slowly (slowly is the critical term). Where it stops, measure the distance between the wiper and the bottom of the triple clamp or the axle and the reference point on the chassis again. Do not bounce. This is L2. (If there were no friction in the seals the bike would come up a little further.)
3.Next lift up on the suspension and let it drop very slowly. Where it stops measure again. Do not bounce. This is L3. The reason L2 and L3 are different is due to stiction or drag in the seals and bushings. (If there were no friction in the seals or the linkage the bike would drop a little further.)
4.Half way between L1 and L2 is where it would come to rest with no friction. Therefore L2 and L3 must be averaged and subtracted from L1 to calculate true Static Sag.
Static Sag = L1 - (L3 L2)/2
5.To adjust Static Sag make longer or shorter preload spacers or use the preload adjusters, if available.
It is important to note that there are no magic Sag numbers. However here are some guidelines to use as starting points. Please refer to the DVS Valving Search for specific guidelines.
Bike Type Front % Front (mm)  Rear % Rear (mm) Rear Free Sag (mm)
Dirt Bikes (>300mm travel) 22-25% 65-75 30-35% 95-110 25-50
Dirt 80cc Minis 22-25% 55-65 30-35% 75-105 20-40
Street Bikes 28-33% 30-35 28-35% 28-37 2-17
Road Race Bikes 23-27% 25-30 23-30% 23-32 2-17


fj11.5

I had a wobbly effie once, checked all the usual suspects, no takers, rode again but didn't do it, hmmmm odd, what did I change, ,soon worked it out, when it wobbled I had a big bag of shopping on the back,,what had happend was a mount had snapped on the rear rack,  causing the weight to become unstable and wobble
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

JPaganel

So, the new tire at proper pressure made for a much better ride, but I still got the wobble once in a while.

I sucked it up and bought the fork brace from RPM. I'm pretty sure the wobble is cured now.
1993 FJ1200 ABS

1984 FJ600, up on blocks

1986 FJ1200, flaming wreck, repaired and sold
1986 FJ1200, repaired, ridden, sold


I don't want a pickle
I just want to ride my motorcicle