Clutch master bad??

[racerrad8]

Nope, that seal is only there the seal oil in the engine.

You have a bleeding issue.

Randy - RPM

[Arnie]

Well, the clutch master could be worn, or the seals in it torn, but its still more likely that you just have air in your system.  The FJ clutch is 'difficult' to bleed.
As has been mentioned on this list before (many times), "reverse" bleeding works much better than trying to force fluid and air down to the slave.
Just wrap your slave bleeder threads with teflon tape so you don't leak there and fill the clutch system from the slave up to the master.  Use a large hypodermic syringe (50cc or larger) like you can get at farm supply stores.  After you have pushed enough fluid UP to at least half fill the reservoir, put the gasket and lid on, and tie the lever to the bar overnight.
You should have a working clutch in the morning.

Arnie

[fj11.5]

Bleeding at the master cylinder banjo bolt ,may also help

[akadaryl33]

Well thanks to everyone for their help!!!! I got all the parts in the right place and used the vacuum bleeder to fill the system and voila! I have clutch!! I think I may still need to bleed one more time because the clutch bites further out than it did before. In any event this is the first time in 2 years it has been all back together and running well. Can't wait to get out for a long ride!!

[oldktmdude]

Well thanks to everyone for their help!!!! I got all the parts in the right place and used the vacuum bleeder to fill the system and voila! I have clutch!! I think I may still need to bleed one more time because the clutch bites further out than it did before. In any event this is the first time in 2 years it has been all back together and running well. Can't wait to get out for a long ride!!

To get the last remaining air out of the system, cable tie or tape the clutch lever back to the handle bar overnight. The next day you will have your clutch feeling as good as new.   Pete.   

[akadaryl33]

Will do... Thanks!

[ribbert]

I think I may still need to bleed one more time because the clutch bites further out than it did before.

Sounds like it is taking up where it should. The clutch is not meant to bite right off the grip. Somewhere near 3/4 out is normal.

[fintip]

I have had a shitty clutch, and it might grab at as low as needing to pull all the way to the grip, and still not entirely engaged. I doubt he'd mention it is not engaging where it did before if it was 3/4?

About to rebuild my clutch soon, so this has all been illuminating.

Slightly off topic, but related enough to make me ask: my rear brake had a locked piston since I got it that slowly got more and more stuck. I went ahead and rebuilt the caliper, flushed the lines, bled thoroughly. When I depress the rear pedal, it goes all the way down--if the wheel is on the center stand, it will grab, but when riding there's not enough force to even really feel it.

I've been assuming rear master, just as this guy did for his clutch, so to speak. Any reason I should diagnose it otherwise?

[jscgdunn]

fintip,
Try bleeding it again....sounds like it needs it.

Jeff

[fj11.5]

Your brake pads don't have fluid or grease on them kyle 

Rod

[fintip]

Trust me, I bled the hell out of it, and had another guy who has bled hundreds of brakes in the shop come over and try as well. It just wasn't working. There's really not that much line between the rear master and the rear caliper, it isn't that much to bleed.

I figure it has to be something in the caliper (did I forget something?), or the rear master cylinder. The fact that the previous owner mentioned briefly when I bought the bike that he had rebuild the rear master cylinder (when I was asking about the clutch slave cylinder, to which he had done nothing) and that the bike came with a funky rear brake that only got worse over time (the bike also sat for [at least] a year before I got it) makes me think I should definitely get into the rear master cylinder.

No?