Preemptive maintenance

[Lightspeed]

Greetings,
A couple questions for the gurus here. I'm 4-weeks into owning an 86 FJ1200. It has 18,500-miles and I would class it as in good condition, with some burnished edges. I want to get 5 solid years from it and would appreciate some advice on the following preemptive maintenance items.
Clutch: Should I switch to the Barnett style? Will my carpal-tunnel hand be able to squeeze the lever?
Slave cyl: Should I replace it on-spec?
Brakes: Can I machine the rotors or must I buy new?
Brake fluid: Is it worth upgrading without changing to stainless steel lines?
BTW - the steering head bearings and chain and sprockets were replaced last year (17-tooth sprocket, so says my brother).
Thanks very much for the advice. Really getting into this awesome machine, even found some kookaloo!

[baldy3853]

Go read the clutch file and make up your own mind. I bought a bike here in the US last yr for the WCR and the Colorado Rally, Randy installed the extra spring in the clutch and with the stock master cylinder,
I have no problem.

I would never have the disc's machined, but that's just my opinion, you could go to the stainless lines, it will improve your brakes but if your original lines if are not bulging all should be good.
Lord Baldy

[ken65]

hi, i just did the barnett upgrade with the standard springs and its a bit stiffer but not to bad and my wrist is a bit dicky,
as far as rotors go if there in spec no worries, otherwise im with baldy on that, i will eventually go down the stainless lines and EBC HH
pads route but i am only using dot3 or 4 fluid.

ken

[ribbert]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Clutch: If it isn't slipping, which it shouldn't be at that mileage, don't touch it. If and when it does slip, replacing the fibre plates and spring will return it to as new condition and retain the light pull.
Unless the PO or you are very hard on the clutch that shouldn't be for a very long time. While the doubled up springs and Barnett conversions are popular here, they achieve nothing that replacing             the worn plates won't and leave you with a heavy clutch pull.

Slave: It won't fail, it will just start to leak at some point. An event that should be obvious when it  starts to happen. I got another 30,000 kms out of mine after it started to leak just by refreshing the fluid.  The old fluid by now will be very watery and bleeding it would be a good thing to do.

Brakes: No, you can't machine them. I, and many others here and elsewhere have excellent results using "Arashi" rotors at under $200 a pair.
EBC HH pads will make a HUGE difference as will SS braided lines. Replacing the rubber hoses is often cited as a safety issue, although I've never actually seen them fail but they do give a sponginess at the lever.

Brake Fluid: It's cheap and more than likely crap by now, bleed everything.  I assume by "upgrading" you are talking about DOT5. The pros and cons for this are complex. I have read a LOT on this and I don't use it, most here don't, a few do.

Lube: You would be amazed at the difference lubing everything makes. Take the clutch and brake levers off, wash and grease, twist grip, throttle cables, speedo cable, gear and brake pedal pivots and handlebar switches. Even lubing the ignition, fuel cap and seat locks makes a difference. Use proper lock lube (graphite powder or similar) do NOT use WD40.

Noel

[Lightspeed]

Thanks very much,
Based on your feedback I'm going do the following.
1. replace fluid/bleed hydraulics - use OE spec fluid, not DOT5
2. get rotors and pads - EBC and "Arashi"
3. wait until end of riding season and have stock clutch fibre plates replaced

[ribbert]

3. wait until end of riding season and have stock clutch fibre plates replaced

I'm a big fan of preemptive maintenance but don't see the need to replace serviceable parts. At that mileage, subject to its previous life, the clutch should have years left in it.
When its time comes, the clutch won't fail as such but start to slip only under extreme conditions (full throttle, high revs, high gears) at first and then deteriorate very slowly. When you notice this, replace it at your leisure.
This a DIY job that only takes about 30 mins.

Noel