a couple of question need answed

[SlowOldGuy]

You guys need to add some small "ears" to those stands to keep the bike from slipping sideways. 
One on each side, don't even need to be as high as the frame rail. 
I almost lost mine one time on a similar work stand.  The ears prevent any unwanted sideways movement.

DavidR.

[movenon]

You guys need to add some small "ears" to those stands to keep the bike from slipping sideways. 
One on each side, don't even need to be as high as the frame rail. 
I almost lost mine one time on a similar work stand.  The ears prevent any unwanted sideways movement.

DavidR.

Good idea !
George

[cyclenutk75]

You guys need to add some small "ears" to those stands to keep the bike from slipping sideways. 
One on each side, don't even need to be as high as the frame rail. 
I almost lost mine one time on a similar work stand.  The ears prevent any unwanted sideways movement.

DavidR.

A length of angle iron mounted to the top of each upright 2x4 would probably work as "safety ears".  Think I'll whip up one of these stands.  I added two eye bolts to the back of my lift table, put bike on center stand, push back end down, and use tie down straps from the grab rails to the eye bolts to hold it down.  Appears, though, that the 2x4 rig keeps both wheels well off the ground. I like that.

GT

[Firehawk068]

Sounds like a jetting issue.

My slightly educated-guess conclusion, indicates that mine may be slightly rich(I would think that the engine would run slightly cooler in this case)
I am certainly no carb-wizard, but from my fuel mileage numbers(being about the same, or slightly worse than they were when I lived in Phoenix) and even the blip test indicates a slightly rich condition(after throttle blip, idle drops below normal idle speed, then rises back up to idle speed)

Most of my riding around town, and on longer rides is done at zero-to-quarter throttle...........and I am assuming here, that under these conditions, I am not using the main jet that much.......And it's under these conditions that I notice the oil temp being slightly higher than I remember..........
When I give her full throttle, she really pulls hard, and never stumbles even at low rpm's. The engine sounds, and feels healthy, at least to me. Having never ridden anyone elses FJ though, I really don't have anything to compare it with..........
I realize that going from roughly 1000ft elevation of phoenix, to 5000+ft in Denver will change the tuning, but I was thinking it would change it toward the rich side.......I could be wrong, and I thought I remember reading a post where someone stated that the CV carbs work the opposite of what you would think?

I wonder why the new guy feels the need for a bigger oil cooler? And I have never heard of anyone stacking 2 of them, one in front of the other?
Maybe, being new to the FJ, he just doesn't realize how much heat these air-cooled engines throw on your legs...............

Anyway, I just received a new valve cover gasket, and grommets from Randy........Now I just need to contact Lee to borrow his valve holder tool in case I need to move shims around, so I can do the valve clearance checks (I have been neglecting this bit of maintainence for far too long), then a good carb synch, and a compression check for good measure, and a new set of plugs.........A fresh oil change, and then I'll see where I'm at before I decide on the bigger oil cooler.

[Pat Conlon]

Hi Alan, yep, your thinking is correct.
Chances are Your pilot jets are just a bit rich, and 1/4 throttle is where they operate.
Checking the air density table shows that you are about 15% less dense at 5000' on a warm day in Denver than where you were in Phoenix. I remember density altitude correction was critical when taking off at a airport in higher elevations on a warm summer day...less air means less lift.
Try turning in your Air/fuel mixture screws 1/4 turn and see if that helps the blip test.
As for running warmer....yep, entirely possible at 5000' even with slightly rich pilots, remember the air is thin up in Denver and air flow is what cools our engines. Less air means less cooling.
Run a good synthetic and unplug your oil temp gauge.

[ribbert]

Keep it simple.

There is a lug in front of the oil drain plug. Use a bottle jack on that.
I do it every week for cleaning, front wheel removing and even fork work.
And, you can leave the belly pan on.
One advantage to this is you can adjust the height so when refitting you can line up the axle so it just pushes through with your finger.

The pictured stand is great for more substantial work and for those that sleep better with the bike rock solid but you do not need something that would make a good bulkhead for Noah's Ark just to whip the wheel out to fix a flat.

You are just removing the front wheel to fix a puncture for goodness sake.

Don't over complicate it.

If you have enough time on you hands to build one of those, you should be riding or polishing or thinking of a sneaky way to introduce an oil discussion.

Noel

[fj11.5]

hell if you have a decent shed,  just ratchet strap the front up  ,, i normall use a smallish slab of timber and a trolley jack under the 4/1 exhaust, never crushed one yet

[yamaha fj rider]

In Denver you should not need a larger oil cooler. 

I am contemplating Randy's larger oil cooler............My FJ seems to run hotter since moving up here to Denver..My guess is the thinner air doesn't cool the bike as well, but I don't know for sure.
My oil temp gauge reads higher than I can remember it when I lived in Phoenix.

Sounds like a jetting issue.

Should be richer in Denver, altitude should over take temperature difference, humidity not much of a factor. I don't have a lot experience jetting street bikes but two stroke dirt bikes tons, principles are the same though. Thinner air not cooling as well makes sense.

Kurt