News:

         
Welcome to FJowners.com


It is the members who make this best place for FJ related content on the internet.

Main Menu

Fork seals replaced - Now having driveability problems

Started by PeteGLH, May 12, 2012, 11:06:39 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

PeteGLH

Quote from: axiom-r on June 08, 2012, 02:59:44 PM
As some of you guys noticed at the WCR I have an offset at the top of my forks much like what you are dealing with here Pete GLH.  The trick to make sure you are not preloading one fork leg spring more than the other is to make sure the front axle goes in and out easily and is properly aligned.  To do this on my bike, I set a floor jack under the motor and slightly lifted the front end while the back was in a pit stand. I then removed the front wheel and loosened the fork pinch bolts.  I set the left side fork tune exactly where I wanted it and tightened all the bolts on that side- then raised and lowered the right side leg until the axle slipped easily in and out of the forks (wheel was out).  When  it was aligned correctly I tightened up the right side pinch bolts.  The forks at the top were uneven but there was no uneven loading because the front axle was aligned....  does that make sense?

tim

Axiom-R:  Yeah that actually makes perfect sense.  I will try to lower the left side first and see if that helps a bit and if needed, I will try the axle alignment trick.

rexsk8er

In my experience I've done fork seals many many times. I'm sure as stated one of your forks are slightly preloaded. Oh and the shop I work at with parts and labor it would total $300. 250 labor and 50 for seals. And yes, I have had to use heat. Multiple times. Basically the seal gets so old and eventually corrosion builds around the aluminum between the actual seal and dust shield. The seal ends up having to be partially melted and literally scraped out.

Generally speaking, fork seals are easy to replace, and its pretty easy to get them back together properly, especially so of newer bikes with damper rod forks. The older they are the harder they get, as far as getting them apart.  Newer cartridge forks are easy to get apart but need special tools and are a bit more complicated internally.  BUT its much much more difficult to get them tuned to maximize handling or comfort or whatever the application needs.

I've also done as axiom-r stated, but only if the axle didnt stab easily with forks equal, meaning maybe the chassis is slightly tweaked or the tubes are not 100% true.

Not to mention the only bikes that forks had to be offset like shown in the picture were bikes that had been laid over multiple times.

Sean