Third times a charm...

[Monkeylove]

My third time using a gas tank sealant, and second time using  POR-15.
Its funked up my tank.  Globs of POR-15 all inside.
I might've rotated it incorrectly, and caused it to glob, but looking inside I'm amazed there are places that didn't even a lick of coating at all, with the amount of flipping and shaking I initially did.  This isn't what I was expecting, any suggestions?  It's been 24 hours.

[Monkeylove]

I think I might use the water hose and then some MEK...

[fj11.5]

i used por-15 on my current tank with great results, tank had holes all through the base had to plug and silver solder , no leaks or globs of -15 ,, did you use the cleaning product in the tank  first , as por-15 likes a clean surface or it wont stick

[grannyknot]

Also, the tank must be dry dry dry. I proped a heat gun under my tank so that it blew through the petcock opening and then out the filler hole, then left it for a few hours. With the tank still hot from drying the por15
coated it very easily.

[Monkeylove]

Yes it was clean and dry... used POR 15 on my Honda it came out awesome.  I can't figure what the issue was here, though the FJ tank shape is a challenge. 

But its all globbed and messed, and I just wouldn't have guessed it, I shook and rotated the hell out of it.  I guess I will just MEK it and then let it dry.  I'm really bummed out. 

...grannyknot, I didnt realize you could use heat before applying POR 15...  http://por15bc.com/por-15.htm
next time i will heat it up.

[JMR]

 Given the ethanol in fuel I don't know how well any coating will last.

[grannyknot]

[quote 

...grannyknot, I didnt realize you could use heat before applying POR 15...  http://por15bc.com/por-15.htm
next time i will heat it up.
[/quote]
Monkeylove, I don't know if you can or not by the rules, but I just figure if some kind of paint or coating has to dry or cure then heat will only help speed and adhere it to the surface. I have had great success with that philosophy over the years. From what you say, it sounds like you got a bad batch that had sat too long on the shelf and cured as you were turning the tank. I would encourage to try again, mind you, cleaning that mess out is not going fun. I have also had good results with CLR (calcium, Lime, Rust) Pour it in full strength, schlosh it around with a handful of nuts inside the tank to act as abrasion. You will have to seal off the petcock opening with tape or a rubber bung but it it also a good place to empty the nuts out after shaking. You can also use a magnet on a telescopic wand to grab the nuts. A lot of the worst rust I've found on M/C gas tanks appears on the inside topmost surface, that is just the other side of the tank surface that you look at the most.
GL, Chris

[Klavdy]

 The active ingredient in C.L.R appears to be Lactic Acid.

[Brook]

....... I also, used por15, with great results.

All of the area in-side the tank needs to be covered......[I used two cans] if not, the gas will get underneath the sealant and cause a mess............. [rotating the tank slow and easy]. 
if you do not know, the tube that is the gas entrance is about 1inch into the tank. So, you can turn the tank up-side- down [slowly] with the sealant in side and it will not come out.

[grannyknot]

The active ingredient in C.L.R appears to be Lactic Acid.

Klavdy, that depends on what country you live in and what legislation has been pasted there controlling
abrasive, corrosive and explosive chemicals (don't want those non existent terrorists getting a hold of
raw materials ya know) CLR use to be much more effective 10-15 yrs ago. I have heard that it has had a number of different chemical compositions  depending on where it is sold. But still, a good product.
Glad to hear you are back on your feet.