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slipping Clutch

Started by ribbert, April 25, 2012, 07:05:33 AM

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ribbert

My clutch slips.  No where near as bad as when I was using synthetic oil, but it does slip on full throttle unless the oils right up to temp.  I put the oil from the last synthetic change into my other bike, now that slips!

I've been curious for a long time, why, if the standard clutch worked for the first 20 years, and most of us run standard engines which for a whole host of reasons probably produce less than 100% of their original power, don't you just replace with standard bits?  The parts are cheap enough and you don't have all the drama of a heavy lever pull to overcome.

Am I missing something?

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

zero26tb4u

I found that my clutch slipped in stock form with new stock parts on my predominately stock motor. Doubling up the clutch diaphragm spring helped immensely and with the addition of the a 14mm master the pull is very close to stock FJ feel. The diaphragm spring is just a wink link in an otherwise strong clutch pack and while I don't have any experience with the Barnett clutch spring set ups I'll bet they are even better than the double diaphragm spring mod.   Just my .02

andyb

A dead stock motor with a dead stock clutch, and everything in good repair, should slip very minimally.  In part, that's designed in, as it's easier on the trans and rest of the driveline.

I've never actually seen a dead stock motor.  Exhaust upgrades, intake upgrades... more power seems to be the name of the game.  The clutch didn't have a lot of headroom in the design when new, so when you throw more power at it, or better tires and more grip, or more load, or.... yeah.  It slips.  Thus the upgrades.

And if you increase the clamping force on the pack a mite, it'll last longer as well.  That's a good thing, when replacing the clutch pack is going to run north of $150.