Question on FJ1100/1200 connecting rods

[Skalabala]

Hi members.

I need to know what kind of power the standard rods in these engines can take?
I have seen that these engines are used in light racing cars in AU.

I have seen pictures of these rods and they do look very beefy 

Can you run nitrous on the standard engine with upgraded pistons?
Will it help to polish and shot-peen them?

Will be using them for a boosted application revving less than 9000rpm.
I am hoping for no more than 300hp at around 8000rpm
My stroke is 77mm
Piston weight is around 235grams

Hope you could help me with some info 

[JMR]

 I have used reworked stock rods up to 200HP. They were polished, balanced and shot peened. Bolts/nuts were replaced with ARP pieces. I would highly recommend Carrillo H beam for 300HP.

[fj1289]

OK Skalabala - you've opened a can of worms now!     

Tell us a bit more about that 77 mm crank!  Any interference with the clutch basket?   

I'm assuming with the power you are looking for and the traction available, you are using some kind of a lock up clutch?  Details please!

Also more on the 4 wheeled application and the nitrous setup!   

[JMR]

Why contorversy...did somebody mention what type of oil he should use. I have used an MRE lock up in past. First thing is the spacer plate looked like it was cut out with a coping saw and the bolt hole pattern was way off. It was returned and they had to look at the pieces on hand to try and find a decent one. That one needed some machining to get right. MRE should get famliar with CNC. 
The lock up arms eat into the pressure plate at a rapid rate....even with no weights. MTC uses steel buttons to prevent this problem. There were some other problems including breaking of clutch parts (that was with a 60  HP shot and no progressive feed (a real good idea to have one). That's my experience.

[Skalabala]

Thanks for the replies!!
I want to use the rods in a car engine 
The standard rods are thin and can take 200-240hp
I will have to resize the big end from 41mm to 43mm and the width from 23.7mm to 21mm+-

[racerrad8]

The XJR1250/1300 rod is much stronger in the big end and beam structure. I have seen 100's of FJ rods break in the middle in the beam on high compression applications.

I do not not think you can open the main size up that the large without compromising the rod bolt hole.

If I get a chance, I will try and get one measured.

Randy - RPM

[Skalabala]

Thanks for the info 
it is only 1mm on a side so it might touch the bolt, but can then just notch the bolt a bit?
maybe fit arp to help with strength if they would needed to get notched.

Thanks again! we are getting somewhere 

[racerrad8]

it is only 1mm on a side so it might touch the bolt, but can then just notch the bolt a bit?

maybe fit arp to help with strength if they would needed to get notched.

That sounds scary...

Lose the material of the rod to keep the bearing crush, and weaken the bolt at the same time.

The other factor is, the ARP bolt requires the hole to be reamed to allow them to fit as the have a larger diameter shoulder that stock.

I will try and get some measurements later today.

Randy - RPM

[glfredrick]

I'm not an expert on bike engines, but I've built a lot of high performance auto engines.  Are you talking about removing a bit of the bolt head or notching the body of the bolt itself?  The head would take a BIT of grinding if done well and polished after the fact, the bolt body itself not.  Any MARK on the bolt itself would destroy the integrity of the bolt with disasterous results.  As has already been said:   

[Skalabala]

Good recipe I have for a bomb 
Yes it is a chance I might not want to take.
I will measure the width and thickness of the standard rod to compare to the bike rod.

Thanks again for helping me with my madness