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Race Tech Emulator installation

Started by markmartin, March 01, 2010, 10:02:19 PM

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SlowOldGuy

Quote from: FeralJuggernaut on March 02, 2010, 11:32:59 PM
Dr.  Carb...   is that 3 degree 2x4 a strict requirement?     when I used a 2x4 cross and a double stack of 2x2s and I don't recall that secret angle.    I got oil on my rig so I'll have to go build another one anyway. 

Erich,
That's what I measured back with the stock shock, on the centerstand, and rocked back so the rear tire touches the ground.  It's different now with the Penske adjusted for max ride height.  I need to build another one to match the geometry with a 2x4 under the centerstand.   Right now I have to shim it up and it's not as stable that way.

DavidR.

markmartin

Quote from: rktmanfj on March 03, 2010, 09:33:09 AM
Quote from: markmartin on March 02, 2010, 07:21:05 PM





You fished that bottle from the neighbor's trash, right?     

Randy T
Indy

I like to think of it as 'Liquid Wrench'. 

markmartin

To rktmanfj, oldslowguy, FeralJuggernaut, FJ Flyer, Mark Olson, LAMike,

Thanks for the directions and advice on the front fork emulator installation. .  Got the bike back together last weekend and the weather finally allowed for a 60 mile ride/commute yesterday (took the long way home from work). I installed the emulator at the factory setting--2 turns in--I backed the spring preload adjuster to the softest setting (granted, this is relative the my spacer length) and everything feels good just like that.   No furthur adjustments needed for my riding style. :good2:

Thanks again

Mark

Dazza57

Hi Mark, in the process of doing the same work. What colour/rate spring did you use on the emulator? I have blue (40lbs/in) and yellow (64lbs/in), and want to do the job once only. BTW, heaps of great info/advice on this thread, thanks to everyone.

Cheers, Dazza
Greatest joke in the world - Two women sitting quietly in a room together, minding their own business :)
Bikes owned
Honda SL125
Suz TS250
Honda XL350
Suz GT550
Yam RD400
Suz TS185
Suz GS550
Suz GS850G
Suz GSX1100
Honda CX500
Honda XLX250R
FJ1200 3CV, current
FJR1300
BMWR1200RT curre

Dazza57

Ooops, meant to also ask David R for details on the Damper rod holder tool. Been searching and can't seem to find what it looks like/how it is made.

Cheers, Dazza
Greatest joke in the world - Two women sitting quietly in a room together, minding their own business :)
Bikes owned
Honda SL125
Suz TS250
Honda XL350
Suz GT550
Yam RD400
Suz TS185
Suz GS550
Suz GS850G
Suz GSX1100
Honda CX500
Honda XLX250R
FJ1200 3CV, current
FJR1300
BMWR1200RT curre

markmartin

Quote from: Dazza57 on October 29, 2011, 06:14:13 PM
Hi Mark, in the process of doing the same work. What colour/rate spring did you use on the emulator? I have blue (40lbs/in) and yellow (64lbs/in), and want to do the job once only. BTW, heaps of great info/advice on this thread, thanks to everyone.

Cheers, Dazza

Yellow spring, 2 turns in.  It seems to work fine at this 2 turns in setting, but I have not tried other settings.  It wouldn't be hard to fiddle with, just time consuming and a little messy.

Good luck. I think you'll be happy with the results.

markmartin

This is the link to DavidR's information about building a damper rod holder.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=659.0

This is the description from that link of the tool you're looking to make.

Special Bonus – David Raforth's Fork Cap Removal ToolTM
Another special tool can be made for removing the early model fork caps. You need an
18mm (thread size) bolt about 3 inches long. (This may be hard to find at your average
hardware store, and may need to be special ordered. You could grind down an SAE bolt
head.). Next get a deep well, 5/8 inch, 12-point socket. Take a hammer and beat the
socket onto the threaded end on of the bolt. Now you have a fork cap remover that you
can use with your ratchet. With an extension, this tool also fits the top of the damper rod
down in the fork tube .


This is a picture of the tool I made from the description above:


Dazza57

Thanks for that Mark, I thought there had to be a good write up on this somewhere, obviously my searchs were not worded well enuff !!

Awesome writeup.

Thanks again to all the great people on this site for all the amazing info. Seems that moditis is very contagious  :dash1:
Greatest joke in the world - Two women sitting quietly in a room together, minding their own business :)
Bikes owned
Honda SL125
Suz TS250
Honda XL350
Suz GT550
Yam RD400
Suz TS185
Suz GS550
Suz GS850G
Suz GSX1100
Honda CX500
Honda XLX250R
FJ1200 3CV, current
FJR1300
BMWR1200RT curre

SlowOldGuy

Quote from: markmartin on October 29, 2011, 07:12:18 PM
Yellow spring, 2 turns in.  It seems to work fine at this 2 turns in setting, but I have not tried other settings.  It wouldn't be hard to fiddle with, just time consuming and a little messy.

Mark,
It's not that time consuming.  Use the center stand and only do one fork at a time.  Pull the cap, spacer,  and spring.  Then use one of those spring loaded "grabbers" (like you use to retreive tools dropped into an inconvenient place) to pull the emulator out of the fork.  Use the grabber to put the emulator back and the spring will seat it.  Reinstall spring, spacer, and cap then do the other side.

DavidR.

markmartin

DavidR, I very well may do that next spring.  I do have this 'remove, adjust, and replace' drill planned before next season for the CRF 230 I own, as I put emulators in those forks last winter. I may do the same to the FJ.
I installed the RT emulators in the CRF230 without disassembling the forks or even removing them from the bike, by removing the damper rods with a extendable magnet. Same idea that you're suggesting. I built the appropriate size damper rod holder for that damper rod using the same logic as your design.  It worked very well.  I think the same could be done with the FJ, (not removing the forks) however changing the fork seals and bushings is a good thing to have done and I'm glad I did the complete job when I did mine.

Dazza57

Well, started the mod on the weekend and it's taken me this long to get up the balls to admit to a potential disaster. :flag_of_truce: I hand held my electric drill to drill the 5/16 holes in the damper rod (only one rod done) but the holes are not dead centre. Is this going to be a problem?
I have already decided to get the other done in a drill press, but can anyone tell me whether I have compromised the strength of this rod already?

Sorry if this is not the correct thread to post on, but seems the emulator mod requires the damper rods to be drilled, sooo . . . heeelp!

Dazza, feeling very sheepish
Greatest joke in the world - Two women sitting quietly in a room together, minding their own business :)
Bikes owned
Honda SL125
Suz TS250
Honda XL350
Suz GT550
Yam RD400
Suz TS185
Suz GS550
Suz GS850G
Suz GSX1100
Honda CX500
Honda XLX250R
FJ1200 3CV, current
FJR1300
BMWR1200RT curre

SlowOldGuy

Just don't drill the holes too close together and you'll be okay.  Leave plenty of meat between the first 2 holes and the second set (drilled 90 degrees to the first set).  The only significant stress the damper rod sees is when the forks top out (like if you're trying to wheelie) and that force would pull on the mounting bolt while compressing the "top-out spring."

Of course the damper rod also sees some stress due to oil viscosity as the fork oil flows through it.

Be sure to deburr the holes you drill.

DavidR.

Dazza57

Well, thanks to all the help on this awesome site, finally got the emulator mod done and new constant rate springs fitted last weekend. Can't wait to see how she rides, especially with the Penske and GSXR wheel out back as well. Still a few little bits to go, braided lines and a little bit of polish here and there . . . .  :good:
Greatest joke in the world - Two women sitting quietly in a room together, minding their own business :)
Bikes owned
Honda SL125
Suz TS250
Honda XL350
Suz GT550
Yam RD400
Suz TS185
Suz GS550
Suz GS850G
Suz GSX1100
Honda CX500
Honda XLX250R
FJ1200 3CV, current
FJR1300
BMWR1200RT curre