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clutch bleed

Started by Ham, October 27, 2011, 10:56:08 AM

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Ham

Ive , replaced the clutch slave piston cup and seal,and  new master cylinder kit, but system will not bleed. I rebuilt front brakes with new kit and worked fine.
The cylinder bores ,I honed them up with scotch bright pad wraped around a timber dowel, driven by a drill, nice finish.There are no size specs in service manual for bore and pistion dia. Mabe the the components are worn out and need replacing Help

FJ111200

OK try this.
Disconnect the banjo bolt at the slave then fill the master with fluid.
Pump the lever a few times then hold it in and then put your thumb and forefinger over the banjo, without the bolt in it.
Release the lever with your thumb and finger still holding the banjo, then release your digits, and you should hear a popping sound or sucking sound.
If not, rapidly repeat until you get the sucking sound and eventually after a few goes at this fluid should get drawn down the hose.
When the fluid comes out of the hose, quickly connect it back to the slave and start the bleed process in the normal way.
Works for me every time.

andyb

The bleeding action happens in the first little bit (1/2" or so?) of travel.  Once the piston moves past the holes in the master (you can see it if you look in it), you're trying to make pressure, not bleed.  The FJ isn't a particularly difficult clutch nor brake to bleed, just have to think about what's doing what and where... and because you bleed air out of the bottom and add fluid at the top, leave it overnight with the caps loosely on when you're done, to get that last little bit out. 


FJmonkey

Quote from: Ham on October 27, 2011, 10:56:08 AM
Ive , replaced the clutch slave piston cup and seal,and  new master cylinder kit, but system will not bleed. I rebuilt front brakes with new kit and worked fine.
The cylinder bores ,I honed them up with scotch bright pad wraped around a timber dowel, driven by a drill, nice finish.There are no size specs in service manual for bore and pistion dia. Mabe the the components are worn out and need replacing Help
When I last rebuilt the master and slave I had real Bit@# of a time to get it to bleed. I used a syringe and got out all of the air. After three (maybe more) times of redoing it due to no feel at the clutch lever I gave myself a time out (for using all the cuss words I knew) and had a beer or two...While enjoying a cool frosty one and calming down my brain kicked into gear. I am doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.  :dash2:

Rethinking each step I took while reassembling I realized that one step had two options, maybe I chose the wrong one? I took the lever off and flipped the push rod around that seats into the master's piston. The lever feel was like new and my bleeding was done. If your issue is lever feel, or can't bleed using the lever then maybe it got flipped when you rebuilt the master...Food for thought..
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Ham

I, blead all air I could but still no clutch. I drained some oil from the sump and unbolted clutch cover exposing the clutch I pushed the plunger
rod ,forcing the slave cylinder piston back in its cylinder and fluid and air bubbles back up into the master res. I had minimum fluid in the
master cylinder before I pushed plunger so  fluid would not  piss out all over the bike . Anyway it worked, I then blead clutch in the normal way .
and I now have a clutch.

fj11.5

if you have to bleed it that way again , just leave the bike on the side stand , no need to drain any oil
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne