New to me FJ1200, Carb set up.

[Ender22]

Hello all,

I recently picked an FJ1200. It has a Vance and Hines 4-1 and a large number of holes in the side of the airbox.  I've been itching to pick up the dual Pods offered by RPM but i wanted to see how the PO had the carbs set up.

I finally had some spare time last night and tonight and here's how they were set up:
Main Jets 118
Needle 4th groove from the end with a washer between the clip and the spring.
Pilot air 155
Fuel mixture ?? but they were drilled out.

I've done some reading on here on other riders carb set ups and i was hoping someone else had some experience with a similar set up, Dual pods and a V&H 4-1, and was willing to share it with me/us.

Also I'm not sure how to go with this, I'm even up for ordering new jets through RPM if needed.


Thanks for the help!
-Rob

[RichBaker]

Sounds like a DJ jet kit, set up on the rich side.  I'd put #40 pilots in there, so you have jets you know the quality ( I don't like drilling jets, it can screw up their flow characteristics), and move the clips to the 2nd groove from the top.  The needles are easy to get to with the carbs mounted, so you can tune them no hassles, but the jets are more difficult to get to....
What filter is in the box?  Did the PO give you the rest of the DJ jets?

[andyb]

I agree totally with Rich's assessment.

The DJ114 is probably a better main jet for it, unless you want to run a heavily oxygenated fuel (U4.4, MR9, etc).
Needles strike me as pretty tall, I'll bet it's quite fat through the midrange.
Pilots are stock.

V&H makes two pipes for the FJ (used to be 3 but the sidewinders were race only, really).  The SS2R and the Supersport (SS).  The SS2R has an oval exhaust cannister, the SS has a black headpipe.  Which do you have?

While you're at it, pull the left cover off the end of the crankshaft (four bigass philips/JIS screws) and see if you've got an ignition advancer in it.



Swap to the UNI pods, and while you haven't stated your elevation, I'd start with a 122.5 mikuni main jet and be prepared to perhaps get a 120 or 125 depending on how things run for you.

Needle position will likely go to the second slot from the top, without a washer, but fine tuning will be required.  Consider the washer a half-step between positions.

Pilot air jets are 155 as stock and will work just fine.  Don't fiddle with them other than cleaning that passageway.

Pilot (fuel) jets are 37.5 stock, and a 40 will undoubtedly be needed, possibly even a 42.5 (I've got a similar setup and that's what I needed to run cleanly... crap gas in this area maybe!)

Mix screws will end up around 3 turns out, give or take a turn (make small adjustments, 1/4 to 1/2 at a time).  If they get past 4 turns out, you'll want a set of 42.5 pilot jets.



I think you'll find it works very nicely.  Here is a post that details various combinations that people have used that worked for them.

As a note, when you're comparing jetting between various combinations, remember that the needles can change things significantly.  Using a FactoryPro needle, you'll need at least a 130 main jet if not bigger.  Dynojet and OEM needles will want somewhere in the 120-125 range usually.  Also please know that Mikuni jet sizes and DJ don't interchange well, DJ are sized like Keihin's (orfice size) and mikuni are sized by flow rate.  I'd swap to mikuni jets if for no other reason than the availability is better.

When you swap pilot jets, the new ones may not match the old ones, having holes drilled in the sides.  Don't worry about it, it's fine.

[Ender22]

Wow great thanks guys!

I'll have to check the box to see what filter was in it.  No I picked the bike up from an uncles friend who rebuilds write-offs.  Except i'm rebuilding it.  I need a few more parts from flea-bay to come in before i can ride it.

The V&H 4-1 is a "SuperSport System", the pipes look black.  What am i looking for with the ignition advancer? The ignition advancer on RPM only stated 88+, but now that i look at it it says 86-94... Will all advances look like the one on RPM's site or is there something specific? can't say i'm good enough to spot a 4 degree difference.

So the needle with the washer, I don't really have a grasp of that yet.  The clip prevents the needle from sticking to far out.  The closer the clip is to the point of the needle the less the needle will stick out, and the less the needle will stop fuel and the richer the bike will run,  When "riding on the needle". 
So in my case this guy has his set rather rich. But why put the washer on the otherside of the clip, the spring side? wouldn't that just mean that the spring itself is more tense but if the desired intent was for a Half Step of the clip then should the washer be on the other side? 

Also does anyone have a better idea of how to put the needles back into the slides?
I sat in my kitchen (For lighting) with my magnettic wand in my mouth attached the cover while i lowered the cover and screws into the slide.  Then using the wand-mouth thing  I held the cover down on the spring and screwed the little bolts in.   

Thanks all!
-Rob

[craigo]

Also does anyone have a better idea of how to put the needles back into the slides?
I sat in my kitchen (For lighting) with my magnettic wand in my mouth attached the cover while i lowered the cover and screws into the slide.  Then using the wand-mouth thing  I held the cover down on the spring and screwed the little bolts in.   

Thanks all!
-Rob

Gee, that's encouraging to know just before a carb rebuild.  Thanks for that 

CraigO

[Arnie]

It is pretty easy to put the needle with the clip (and washer if used) into the slide.  You then have to put the little spring over the needle assembly, again pretty easy if you use a pair of long nose pliers or some tweezers or a "hemostat".  Yes, the cover with screws is a little tricky.  a scriber with magnet on the end makes it easy.
Just work carefully and don't drink too much coffee OR beer while doing this

Arnie

[andyb]

Will all advances look like the one on RPM's site or is there something specific? can't say i'm good enough to spot a 4 degree difference.

It'll look a bit difference, probably with a VHR (V&H Racing) logo on it, that sort of thing.  If it's been slotted, you should see that too.  

So the needle with the washer, I don't really have a grasp of that yet.  The clip prevents the needle from sticking to far out.  The closer the clip is to the point of the needle the less the needle will stick out, and the less the needle will stop fuel and the richer the bike will run,  When "riding on the needle".  
So in my case this guy has his set rather rich. But why put the washer on the otherside of the clip, the spring side? wouldn't that just mean that the spring itself is more tense but if the desired intent was for a Half Step of the clip then should the washer be on the other side?  

The washer is between the spring and the rest of teh assembly to prevent it from destroying the plastic bits or getting caught on something.  It's also a handy place to store washers.

Also does anyone have a better idea of how to put the needles back into the slides?
I sat in my kitchen (For lighting) with my magnettic wand in my mouth attached the cover while i lowered the cover and screws into the slide.  Then using the wand-mouth thing  I held the cover down on the spring and screwed the little bolts in.  

Needle-nosed pliers work well.