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Inner fork tube alignment

Started by Rampant_ant, June 22, 2011, 03:39:38 PM

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Rampant_ant

Hey guys
Sorry if this has been asked before but i've searched a heap and can't find an answer (using a cell phone doesnt help)

I've been planning to change my 85 1100's fork oil and have been reading my genuine manual.
It says that the inner fork tube needs to have the notch line up in the straight ahead position (one of three different notches) but I have noticed that both of mine are lined up to the right hand notch.

Is this a problem? I want change the oil because its riding to hard for the "quality" (hah) Brisbane roads I use. Could this be why its so hard?

Cheers guys.....
Kev

Rampant_ant

Further information.....

PO changed the oil about a year ago but put 15w in because he couldn't find 10w, thats why I thought to change the oil.
I haven't had anything to do with forks. First bike I'm going to this level of self servicing on

RichBaker

There is a notch in the bottom of the inner tube that indexes on a locater screw, it is used to insure that the rebound adjuster slots are correctly "synced"..... Take the forks completely apart and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

Rampant_ant

Quote from: RichBaker on June 22, 2011, 07:13:22 PM
There is a notch in the bottom of the inner tube that indexes on a locater screw, it is used to insure that the rebound adjuster slots are correctly "synced"..... Take the forks completely apart and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Bugger! I was hoping to avoid that. So they have been assembled incorrectly? Would that make them stiff?

RichBaker

If the adjustment rod was NOT seated into the center, "D"-shaped hole, it could cause some binding. If the tubes weren't indexed correctly, it would be difficult to get the rebound settings the same, but that would only affect rebound.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

fj11.5

The rod will go back in just takes a little patience or luck  without taking the forks apart,
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

chapindad

I just did this.  Follow the instruction I got:

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4072.0

It is very easy to do as long as you follow the instruction for pulling the handle bars off the bike.  :dash1:  It takes just a few minutes on each side to make sure the rod lines up correctly.  If you have it done correctly then the screw will go back on without much effort.  If you have to put a lot of force into it then the rod is not on correctly.  Now that I have done it, I could probably do it again in about 30-40 minutes with easy.
1989 FJ1200
1987 Corvette