Problems with my wiring

[Carterc]

So as some of you may know, the PO of my bike hooked up NOS and then sold it to me with all the components still on it, just with no NOS. He had used the horn button as the switch and took off the turn signals and i assumed thats all he did, turns out i was wrong.
last week i ordered the LED brake lights with integrated turn signals from Randy at RPM and when i got them, i went to go put them on my bike and i noticed all the wires were spliced and going crazy places to power the NOS system he put in it. well i have successfully taken out all the unused wiring on the bike and all thats left now is to get my rear left turn signal to work. i checked my clymers manual and it says the wire color is "Ch" which im assuming is chocolate, but theres a brown wire and a light brown wire, so which one is it? it doesnt look like he spliced either of the wires so im all kinds of confused now. ANY help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance!

Chris

[tqmx1]

Man, If I was doing it the first thing I would do is get a compleat wiring harness out of a 86-87 that is being parted out. Then you have a good starting point. It sounds like you have a electrical fire just waiting to happen.

[Carterc]

i thought about that, but im not sure that i could even figure out how to completely swap it out, i couldnt even figure out how to take the dashboard off to replace the light bulbs...

[tqmx1]

Then order up a factory service manual it gives all the routing of the wiring though out the bike along with all the wire color codes. Then get the harness.

The manual will cost you $$ in the short run but will save you MAJOR headaces in the long run.

[weymouth399]

Then order up a factory service manual it gives all the routing of the wiring though out the bike along with all the wire color codes. Then get the harness.

The manual will cost you $$ in the short run but will save you MAJOR headaces in the long run.

Plus 1 on that.

Bob W

[Travis398]

Test light 

[Carterc]

hey thats a good idea... haha

[Carterc]

can anyone tell me what that green clip on the top of this picture is?

[Marsh White]

It was for CA emissions.  It was on ALL states FJs - even non-CA ones.  It does not plug into anything on your bike.  You can ignore it - or use it to power some aftermarket system....like NOS perhaps?  

[Carterc]

haha thanks Marsh, are there any other unused wires that i need to know of?

[Carterc]

Does anyone know off-hand of what all needs to come off the bike to completely replace the wiring harness? My Clymers manual doesnt really tell me much about the process, and it needs to be replaced really badly. I'm just worried i wont be able to do it by myself.

thanks,
Chris

[tqmx1]

The best way is remove the fairings and gas tank start unclipping all the harnesses that connect to the main. The main harness runs down the right upper frame held on by zip ties. Needless to say when in doubt take pictures as you remove everything (makes it so much better going back together) After you get the harness back to the subframe disconnect the tail light's&turn signales. On the left side you have the ignition & Alt. + a few others. Once everything is removed reverse the operation and when all the connectors are connected(except the Ca smog) you are done.

[andyb]

So as some of you may know, the PO of my bike hooked up NOS and then sold it to me with all the components still on it, just with no NOS. He had used the horn button as the switch and took off the turn signals and i assumed thats all he did, turns out i was wrong.

That's not entirely typical.  Generally the horn button is used for an airshifter.  The starter button is for nitrous activation.  

The reason is that on a drag run, you don't use nitrous unless the gas is fully open, and you don't move your right hand at all after the first few feet, so you bring the throttle down and it puts you in the correct position to lay on the spray button.  Left hand is busy with the clutch until you're launched (usually off the clutch between 30-60' out, depending on style) and then you're free to play with shifting.  Very difficult to modulate the clutch and hit the button at the same time!  Folks who run a progressive nitrous (pulsed) controller will frequently be hitting the nitrous button right off the line and let the controller take over from there.

Still, easy to hack up a harness, and I've seen some godawful wiring jobs on bikes at the strip.

Shouldn't be too difficult to return to stock, just ensure that you're making very good, waterproof, vibration-proof connections.  Replacing the entire harness I'd reserve for fixing serious hack jobs, unless you're a little spooked by working with the wiring.


While I'm at it, I'd strongly suggest checking into the killswitch, sidestand switch wires (trace them out).  Part of the tech requirement at the track is a tether switch, and it's usually tied into one of those circuits... it should be in line with the killswitch, but not everyone sets things up correctly when they modify those systems.