Front Forks Leaking

[jmmiii3]

I have a '93 FJ and my forks are starting to leak. 

What exactly do I need to replace? 

Can someone tell me what to order from the scematic here: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/yamaha-motorcycle-fj1200ae-1993-front-fork/o/m7141sch131143

Thanks,

James III

[pdxfj]

Two of these:
24: OIL SEAL 38731-001 $14.73

Two of these:
26: SEAL,DUST 40630-001 $9.69

And a quart of this in 10w.
http://www.bikebandit.com/product/8665

[jmmiii3]

Thank you.  I wasn't sure if I could reuse the other parts I saw in the diagram.

Thanks

[Pat Conlon]

 I dunno about FJ's, ever notice that it seems as though we go through a lot of forks seals?

My theory is that the spindly 41mm stanchion tubes flex (bow outward) from our heavy bikes and upgraded brakes, tires,etc, which leads to fork seal problems along with broken plastic tabs on our front fenders.

This I've found helps both conditions: http://www.superbrace.com/

Also, if you are going to replace your inner and outer bushings (recommended) use the Race Tech bushings, much better than oem:
http://tinyurl.com/lbdwpl

However, use only oem Yamaha seals, the best, never aftermarket, but the Teflon coated Race Tech bushings are bitchen.

I'll get down off my soap box now....

[threejagsteve]

jmmiii3,

You should also join the Yahoo FJ group, http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/yamahafj/

In their files section, there are pics and instructions for making the tools you'll need.

But one thing you should be aware of... In one of the pics, a 12-mm allen is specified. I suppose that may be right for earlier bikes, but I have a '91 and found that I needed a 10-mm allen, not a 12. Not sure if your forks are the same as mine, but check first before you go running around in circles to find a 12. It's the allen on the bottom of the fork leg that you can't even see until the axle is out.

Also, I didn't have a spare 27-mm head bolt lying around and M20 bolts aren't stocked in even the good hardware stores around me. However, I found that a 3/4" female to 3/4" male plumbing union has a hex size of 1-1/16, which is only very slightly smaller (like 0.0005 in.) than 27 mm.

By the time you have your parts I'll have finished the job, so stay tuned...

Hope this helps,
threejagsteve

[Arnie]

Putting a dust shield like Triumph used helps fork seal life tremendously.
The ones from the Trophy 1200 fit just fine and are under $20.
What wears the fork seals is dirt, stones, and dead dried bug guts on your fork tubes cutting up the fork seals as they go up and down.
If you don't want to spend that much, a stiff(ish) piece of foam tubing held on with a cable tie will also work, as will fork gaitors (for those old enough to know what they are).
Using the Triumph shields I got over 40,000 kms from my last set of seals, and the current set has over 30,000kms and is not leaking yet.

BTW  I do not use a fork brace.

Cheers,
Arnie

[Pat Conlon]

Yea, that's a great tip Arnie.
I have a pair of Triumph shields I took off when I installed the Superbrace (can't run both) Although the Superbrace does have a small shield deflector which helps, 'thou not as tall as the Triumph shields.

Next time you have your front fender off, take a look at the 4 holes in oem aluminum strap. Are they elongated?
Wonder why? It didn't come from the factory that way.....

Oh yea, the brace also helps tighten the steering in the tight twisties....

Putting a dust shield like Triumph used helps fork seal life tremendously.

BTW  I do not use a fork brace.

Cheers,
Arnie

[threejagsteve]

Also, I didn't have a spare 27-mm head bolt lying around and M20 bolts aren't stocked in even the good hardware stores around me. However, I found that a 3/4" female to 3/4" male plumbing union has a hex size of 1-1/16, which is only very slightly smaller (like 0.0005 in.) than 27 mm.

I should have mentioned that the union I found is brass - I wouldn't try using the plastic stuff! LOL

[FeralJuggernaut]

For the creative types on George budgets like me, I can pull the rear axle nut off and it fits in the top of the forks, then use a largish metric crescent (or SAE if that is all you have handy)  wrench to get by...     

Heat is also a good thing when trying to extract the bottom Hex bolt.  BTDT, have the Tshirt.

[FJmonkey]

For the budget wise mechanics out there, there are dual standard crescent wrenches available. Mine has "12 IN" on one side, and  "300 MM" on the other side. this save me the cost of having one for each standard.

[threejagsteve]

For the budget wise mechanics out there, there are dual standard crescent wrenches available. Mine has "12 IN" on one side, and  "300 MM" on the other side. this save me the cost of having one for each standard.

Back in the days when ethnic jokes were making the rounds, a crescent wrench was referred to as a (insert ethnic group of your choice here) toolbox.

___________

jmmiii,

If you're still around, have a look at my "SoCal Fix-Up, Part Deux" thread... http://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=745.msg6027#new  inquiring minds want to know!