Choke Sticking On - FJ1100

[Bogan]

Folks,

When I bought my FJ there was a loop of wire sticking out the right hand side under the tank.  When we pulled it apart the first time for its post delivery inspection we found it was connected to the choke circuit and you could pull it to disengage the choke.  I thought the choke should turn off by itself so we removed it.

Now I'm on my second choke cable after snapping one, and sometimes it sticks on, when I rotate the choke ring to move it to off the cable unseats itself and goes slack and the choke stays on.  What's happening here?

What can I fix so that the choke turns off when I move the choke ring to the "off" position?  Is it sticking somewhere in the cable run or would the carbs need a clean or could it be something else?

Cheers.

[FJmonkey]

The choke on the 86" is a knob that you pull out to choke when cold and push back in when warm. It is on the LH side. Sounds like you have some PO (Previous Owner) mods. This is a two way cable system to work properly,  pull to activate and push to cancel. Other 84/85 owners can offer more details.

[Bogan]

I had a previous owner mod but I removed it.  The '84-'85 is a choke ring on the left handlebar.

Part 9 is the ring, and the cable fits into the switchblock housing inboard at the front.

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/handle-switch-lever-fj1100l-19841985_bigyau0036h-9_c296.gif

[Harvy]

Folks,

When I bought my FJ there was a loop of wire sticking out the right hand side under the tank.  When we pulled it apart the first time for its post delivery inspection we found it was connected to the choke circuit and you could pull it to disengage the choke.  I thought the choke should turn off by itself so we removed it.

Now I'm on my second choke cable after snapping one, and sometimes it sticks on, when I rotate the choke ring to move it to off the cable unseats itself and goes slack and the choke stays on.  What's happening here?

What can I fix so that the choke turns off when I move the choke ring to the "off" position?  Is it sticking somewhere in the cable run or would the carbs need a clean or could it be something else?

Cheers.

A couple off thoughts.

Maybe the routing of the choke (starter) cable is causing it to jam - hence the broken cable.

or

There is a spring in each of the actuating plungers on the carbs. As they are all connected together on the one actuating rod, it would just take one to be all gummed up to prevent the actuator shaft from returning to the off position.


Harvy

[oldktmdude]

  G'day Bogan, I reckon Harvy hit the nail on the head with the cable routing. I had a similar issue with my '85 when I first got it. The cable runs similar to the throttle cables but not with them. Make sure it is not zip tied to them.  Regards, Pete.

[gp1]

when i got my 84 i had a similar problem.found that the choke rail on the carbs was sticking and sometimes very tight and when turning the
choke ring it was bending the cable and not shutting off the choke.
if you disconnect the cable at the carbs and push on the rail it should spring back freely.
i oiled and freed up the choke rail no problems since.

glp1

[Mark Olson]

don't know if this helps but watch out for the routing of the cable. I got mine too close to the head and melted the casing which caused it to hang up and stick on. I had to get a

new one and zip tie it up away from the head and this stopped the problem from coming back.

[mr blackstock]

I had almost the same problem.  Mine was that the choke rod running the width of the carbs was very stiff, meaning the cable was inefective.  After removing the little choke plungers, scrubbing, etc, re-fitting, the rod moved fairly freely.

However, the cable still could not pull the rod.  My solution was to move the cable connection along the rod, to between the two far left carbs, (from sitting on the bike) this gave the cable much better leverage on the choke bar and worked a treat.

The cable "ring" on the handlebar needs very gentle treatment, if you rotate the ring to far towards you, the cable pops out, thereby enabling you to remove the ring from the instrument block.  Try just rotating the ring 3 clicks, any more will pop the cable out.  If the cable and ring are installed incorrectly, the cable will pop out around the second click.

cheers,
good luck