Really dumb question.

[irishluck]

Okay im sorry for this but i have a really dumb question and i just can not figure out which one it is.

But, what number on this diagram is the actual clutch? i think its either 10 or 9 but i cant tell?

http://www.kennedyscycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

[Pat Conlon]

#9 is the friction plate in the FJ clutch pack. There are 2 different types of friction plates, 6 wide (#9) and 2 narrow (#6 and #11) for a total of 8 friction plates.
#10 are the steel plates. There are 2 types of steel plates; 6 large(#10) and 1 small (#7) for a total of 7 steel plates.


Did you read this? http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

Cheers laddie!

[irishluck]

so are you saying i need to replace all of that?
or is there certain peice of that that actually wears out.

And no i havent read that i dont have clutch slippedge i just thought it be a good idea to change while i have the engine out

[Marsh White]

You didn't use the actual word "Spring" - but is that what you are asking about?  The clutch spring?  If so, it is #14.  Also, if you read the link that Pat posted you will learn A LOT!  Just sayin'

[irishluck]

ill go ahead and read it just to get some info,


But i mean why ima sking about this is cause i have the whole engine out anyways and thought i might as well replace the clutch.

My question is now, looking at that diagram, what part of that would i actually need to replace so it will last for awhile. or do i have to replace all of that every time i replace the clutch?

ive never replaced clutch in a bike before so i have no idea what im doing with that at all.

Also im not having any slipping problems or anything, i just thought since im doing a tune up might as well replace the clutch, but from what im understanding, there are like 15 pieces to the clutch.

[SlowOldGuy]

You would typically replace the friction plates, they are what wears out first.  No need to replace the whole thing unless there is serious damage.

One thing to consider is that the clutch is very easy to get to with the engine in the frame.  So you can service it at any time, you can even do it without draining the oil.  In fact, it may be easier to work on in teh frame rather than on the bench since the frame is acting as a motor stand.

So, my advice is don't do any "panic repairs" until you know something is broken.

DavidR.

[andyb]

Dude, totally start by reading Pat's super-essay on clutches!

It'll seriously help.  The wear items are the fiber plates (#9 and #11), the steels if warped (#10), and the spring if warped or not holding (#14).  But there's a bunch of different options when you're in there.  Don't be intimidated by it, the only tools required is a micrometer, a couple of smallish sockets (8mm and 10mm I think), and a dental pick/magnet/tiny screwdrivers to get the clutch pack unglued from itself.  Super easy job and very rewarding, just buy a spare gasket when you do go in there. 

This isn't like a car clutch where there's one clutch and one flywheel.  There's like 10 of each, and the spring/pressure unit is separate.  It's actually a damned easy job to swap, so don't be intimidated, and you can undoubtedly even get all the parts all from the same source too!

[irishluck]

well ill tear into it tonight and see what i come up with and let ya all now whats going on! thans for the help