YZF600 WHEEL MOD

[bama1]

What does it take to put one of these rims on a FJ?What year of rims will work on the FJ.The YZF 600 rim looks good.

THANKS BUDDY

[andyb]

YZF 600 (non-R6) 1997-2000 will work.

The cushdrive gets machined down after removing the studs (use a lathe) 3mm, to align the sprockets.

The brake caliper perch arm thing needs 8mm cut off to set total width of the assembly, and a little extra to clear the swingarm.  Use the YZF part, not the FJ part.

The little spacer that fits on the chain side within a seal needs 8mm cut off to set total width of the assembly.

The torque arm that goes between the caliper perch and the swingarm (it's about a foot long) should be either welded with an offset to align properly, bent with some heat, or you can just force it and hope.  Depending on the tire you use, this is up to you, and how much clearance you have.

The wheel is 17x5.0, and mounts a 160/60R17, 170/60R17, or 160/70R17.  Most use the 170/60, and it fits well in most cases.  Some tires will get damned tight to the chain, to the point of actually rubbing if the chain gets loose.  You may also find that your chainguard is a cheap bent piece of plastic and needs some work to keep it off the chain and away from the tire.

That's what mine took, and that's from memory.  I'm pretty sure it was 3mm and 8mm, though it may have been in other places!  Measure measure measure.

You'll need every part that fits within the swingarm replaced (spacers, bearings, wheel, brake perch, brake disc, cushdrive, sprocket carrier).

[LA Mike]

Do the FZR1000 or GSXR1100 rear wheel swap it's very easy!!!

[mickarch]

Hi Folks,  Bumping up and older thread but it seems to make sense to keep the yzf600 rear swap stuff together.

So I acquired all the parts for the swap and brought them to a machinist that was recommended by a couple guys at work that rebuild old mustangs along with the instructions posted in the suspension files.  When I got the parts back, the spacer and caliper bracket looked good but I have some concerns about the work he did on the cush drive.  When he milled down the face, he took some material off the lugs that center the sprocket up and now the sprocket is a little loose with about 0.025" play when forced tight on one side (measured with feeler gauge).

Also, there appears to be more material (depth) taken off one side of the drive than the other, like maybe he didn't have it set up level, or the drive had some warp in it to begin with.  There is a small "rib" that runs around the perimeter that the sprockets mates against and on 1/2 of drive the paint is still on the rib and on the other 1/2 the paint and some aluminum has been taken off.  I don't know what the run out is since I haven't mounted it all up yet due to the looseness issue above.

So the big questions are; how much play (if any) between the sprocket and cush drive is acceptable, and how much run out on the sprocket is acceptable?  Should I just toss the cush drive, get another from ebay and find a new machinist?

TIA,
Mickey

[Yamifj1200]

"So the big questions are; how much play (if any) between the sprocket and cush drive is acceptable, and how much run out on the sprocket is acceptable?  Should I just toss the cush drive, get another from ebay and find a new machinist?"


The cush drive needs to be machined completely flat, removing 3mm off of the face where the sprocket bolts to the cush drive.  I have machined quite a few of the YZF 600 drives and only one of them would not clean up properly. If you are in doubt, find another drive and have its face machined in a lathe while the cush drive is running true...simple to do if setup properly.... HTH

Eric M