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Gold valves vs stock

Started by Derek Young, January 07, 2011, 12:19:37 AM

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Derek Young

Hi guys.  Will be putting a set of yzf600 forks on my 86 soon.  My question is: Are the gold valve kits necessary?  Is there enough improvement to warrant the cost and time to put them in?  I'm researching the steps to disassemble/reassemble now before I start.  I may need some advice once I get into it.

Thanks
Derek
1986 FJ1200 (R.I.P.)
1991 FJ1200
Nanaimo, British Columbia

Pat Conlon

Hi Derek. I don't have the YZF600 cartridge forks but I do have something close. I have the  1996 CBR Honda F3 cartridge conversion on my '92 FJ front end. This was a special project from Jon Cain (8 years ago) where he machined some special "hats" that the Honda cartridges sat in, allowing the cartridges to be bolted to the FJ lower sliders. i.e. stanchion tubes were 41mm Honda tubes and the lower sliders were FJ.

Anyhoo... When these forks went together I used the Race Tech Gold compression and rebound valves. With the Honda cartridges, the rebound is adjustable via a screw in the fork cap and the compression is adjustable via the shim stack on the Race Tech cartridge.
What you get with the Race Tech Valves is this ability to set the compression where you want it. Unlike the YZF750 forks where the compression adjustment is external via a screw on the fork legs, the Honda F3 cartridges have to be removed to make changes to the shim stack. No biggie. Perhaps on a track bike external adjustment is important but once my shim stack was dialed in I have left it alone.

I'm glad I spent the extra money on the Race Tech goodies.. After 8 years and many miles, I continue to be very happy with these cartridge forks.

FYI here are my fork set up specs:

Oil level 130mm (5.125in.)
Spring preload 19mm (.750in.)
Spring spacer 3.375in.
Compression bleed #55 drill (.052in.)
Compression stack C38
Rebound stack R20
Rebound needle base setting 1 turn out
Oil 125/150 Golden Spectro cartridge oil

HTH    Pat
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

JCainFJ

 Yes, the YZF forks are valved too soft for the YZF, the extra weight of the FJ needs the gold valves with the correct shim stack and the heavier springs.
I've done quite a few sets of YZF forks for FJ's (I've even done some for YZF's), and there are some tricks and tools needed so please ask all of your questions before you start!

Derek Young

Hi pat.  I was considering many fork options, including both the ones you have.  (Your 84 is a thing of beauty btw)  I was trying to search for the honda mod on here and the yahoo group but I thought it was f2 cartridges :scratch_one-s_head:.  So......no luck.  I came across the yzf600 setup on craigslist, searched them on here and made my decision.  The usd forks look way better, but I'm applying for collector a plate on my 86 this year and the usd forks are an obvious change.  I want a more stock appearance so as not to risk being turned down.  Its a huge savings on insurance(6 months for a little over the cost of one month of non colector!).

I could be wrong but I believe the yzf600 forks have external adjustment for compression and rebound.  Regardless, I think the gold valves are going in!  Why go as far as to put on new forks and not do it right?

Thanks for your input
Derek
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 07, 2011, 01:25:30 AM
Hi Derek. I don't have the YZF600 cartridge forks but I do have something close. I have the  1996 CBR Honda F3 cartridge conversion on my '92 FJ front end. This was a special project from Jon Cain (8 years ago) where he machined some special "hats" that the Honda cartridges sat in, allowing the cartridges to be bolted to the FJ lower sliders. i.e. stanchion tubes were 41mm Honda tubes and the lower sliders were FJ.

Anyhoo... When these forks went together I used the Race Tech Gold compression and rebound valves. With the Honda cartridges, the rebound is adjustable via a screw in the fork cap and the compression is adjustable via the shim stack on the Race Tech cartridge.
What you get with the Race Tech Valves is this ability to set the compression where you want it. Unlike the YZF750 forks where the compression adjustment is external via a screw on the fork legs, the Honda F3 cartridges have to be removed to make changes to the shim stack. No biggie. Perhaps on a track bike external adjustment is important but once my shim stack was dialed in I have left it alone.

I'm glad I spent the extra money on the Race Tech goodies.. After 8 years and many miles, I continue to be very happy with these cartridge forks.

FYI here are my fork set up specs:

Oil level 130mm (5.125in.)
Spring preload 19mm (.750in.)
Spring spacer 3.375in.
Compression bleed #55 drill (.052in.)
Compression stack C38
Rebound stack R20
Rebound needle base setting 1 turn out
Oil 125/150 Golden Spectro cartridge oil

HTH    Pat

1986 FJ1200 (R.I.P.)
1991 FJ1200
Nanaimo, British Columbia

Derek Young

Quote from: JCainFJ on January 07, 2011, 02:59:04 AM
Yes, the YZF forks are valved too soft for the YZF, the extra weight of the FJ needs the gold valves with the correct shim stack and the heavier springs.
I've done quite a few sets of YZF forks for FJ's (I've even done some for YZF's), and there are some tricks and tools needed so please ask all of your questions before you start!
I've been searching on google and youtube for step by step instructions.  There is alot of information out there, although not yzf600 specific, I believe many of the forks are similar.
I'll order the parts and make it happen.
My shopping list so far:
Fork springs(seems like 1kg is what most use)
Fork seals and dust caps
Fork bushings
Fork seal driver(will make one)
Damper rod holder(will make one)
Race tech gold compression and rebound valves

Any other parts you can think of?

Thanks
Derek
1986 FJ1200 (R.I.P.)
1991 FJ1200
Nanaimo, British Columbia

simi_ed

The copper washers for the damper rod bolts.  Be R-E-A-L-L-Y careful disassembling the damper rods to get the valving out.  I only damaged/destroyed 3 damper assemblies to get the pair dome for my forks!
-- RKBA Regards,

Ed
===
Ed Thiele 
Simi Valley, CA -- I no longer have SoCal manners.
'89 FJ12C (Theft deterrent Silver/White)


- All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for
enough good men to do nothing.

- Edmund Burke

the fan

Quote from: simi_ed on January 09, 2011, 03:05:25 PM
The copper washers for the damper rod bolts.  Be R-E-A-L-L-Y careful disassembling the damper rods to get the valving out.  I only damaged/destroyed 3 damper assemblies to get the pair dome for my forks!

...Or go with a pro....

I charge $145.00 (includes oil) plus parts to install springs and valving in the YZF fork conversions. Depending on your weight and what rear suspension you are running there are many variables when setting up the valves. Feel free to ask questions and I will try to help you choose the right set up for your machine. If you are not comfortable, box 'em up and ship them to me.I have all the tools and experience to set you up.

Harvy

Quote from: the fan on January 09, 2011, 03:24:33 PM

...Or go with a pro....

I charge $145.00 (includes oil) plus parts to install springs and valving in the YZF fork conversions. Depending on your weight and what rear suspension you are running there are many variables when setting up the valves. Feel free to ask questions and I will try to help you choose the right set up for your machine. If you are not comfortable, box 'em up and ship them to me.I have all the tools and experience to set you up.

I must add a plug for Bill.

He did my FZ1 forks for me. All I had to do was tell him my riding style and weight.
Fitted Racetech internals and fully serviced the forks.
I bolted them in and they were perfect........ I have not had to alter the setup.

A 100% job.


Cheers all.
Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

rktmanfj

Quote from: Harvy on January 09, 2011, 03:52:58 PM
Quote from: the fan on January 09, 2011, 03:24:33 PM

...Or go with a pro....

I charge $145.00 (includes oil) plus parts to install springs and valving in the YZF fork conversions. Depending on your weight and what rear suspension you are running there are many variables when setting up the valves. Feel free to ask questions and I will try to help you choose the right set up for your machine. If you are not comfortable, box 'em up and ship them to me.I have all the tools and experience to set you up.

I must add a plug for Bill.

He did my FZ1 forks for me. All I had to do was tell him my riding style and weight.
Fitted Racetech internals and fully serviced the forks.
I bolted them in and they were perfect........ I have not had to alter the setup.

A 100% job.


Cheers all.
Harvy

+1

Bill did my YZF 600 forks with the full RT setup, and they are the shit.    :good2:

Randy T
Indy

JCainFJ


Derek,

Your list looks good if you add the copper crush washers that Ed is talking about, and you need to use the spring calculator that is on the Race-Tech site.
I also designed and make a tool for the compression valve holder that will protect it when you heat it to remove it from the cartrage tube. Bill ( the fan) and I work together on a lot of these projects, and I will make sure that he has one of these compression valve holder tools. The internal parts to these forks are aluminum, which is easy to distort, especially when heated.  Most of these parts are not individually sold. Yamaha only sells the compleat cartrage for $213.44.
Bill does very good work ( he has my 41mm seal and bushing driver, my 41mm tube saddles, and we just colaberated on a dial indicator mount design that is used to straighten these forks, and he will have one of my comp. holder tools) so the $145 he charges is money well spent. If you do this work yourself, please call either Bill or me. We want to help.



My shopping list so far:
Fork springs(seems like 1kg is what most use)
Fork seals and dust caps
Fork bushings
Fork seal driver(will make one)
Damper rod holder(will make one)
Race tech gold compression and rebound valves

Any other parts you can think of?

Thanks
Derek

[/quote]

simi_ed

Of course, you also need  2 quarts of Amsoil Shock Therapy Suspension Fluid #5 Light (STL).  Contact your friendly (local?) Amsoil dealer (me :good2:) and I'll set you up!
-- RKBA Regards,

Ed
===
Ed Thiele 
Simi Valley, CA -- I no longer have SoCal manners.
'89 FJ12C (Theft deterrent Silver/White)


- All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for
enough good men to do nothing.

- Edmund Burke

Derek Young

Thanks for the offer Bill. As of yesterday, all FJ projects are on hold, apparently Revenue Canada feels they should get paid first.  :ireful: They obviously don't ride FJ's!  :negative: Clearly they ride Harleys... :crazy:

Thanks,
Derek

Quote from: the fan on January 09, 2011, 03:24:33 PM
Quote from: simi_ed on January 09, 2011, 03:05:25 PM
The copper washers for the damper rod bolts.  Be R-E-A-L-L-Y careful disassembling the damper rods to get the valving out.  I only damaged/destroyed 3 damper assemblies to get the pair dome for my forks!

...Or go with a pro....

I charge $145.00 (includes oil) plus parts to install springs and valving in the YZF fork conversions. Depending on your weight and what rear suspension you are running there are many variables when setting up the valves. Feel free to ask questions and I will try to help you choose the right set up for your machine. If you are not comfortable, box 'em up and ship them to me.I have all the tools and experience to set you up.
1986 FJ1200 (R.I.P.)
1991 FJ1200
Nanaimo, British Columbia