bar end weights

[Striker]

Okay, I have a fun little problem. My grips are so worn they are about to start falling apart. I know I need to replace them, but I can't get the darn bar ends off to change them out. I've used most of the ideas I could come up with. Let some PB blaster sit for a little while and used some big pliers to try and twist them off. Even tried loosening them a little with a hammer! Not even budging! Any new ideas on how to get the darn things off? Any help would be appreciated Thanks!!!!

[Pat Conlon]

Yea, this is common. Is the #8 female allen head on the weights stripped out? Hope not. Try a impact driver to get them loose.
If it's stripped out, then with a Dremel you could grind 2 sides flat to get a big ass end wench, or Vise Grips, or even a pipe wrench  on them.

[racerman_27410]

i had one get stuck like that before... hate to say it but i wound up destroying it with a pipe wrench in order to remove it.

a lesson learned and anti sieze the threads from then on


Kookaloo!

[SkyFive]

I had the same problem! The only solution for me was to remove the entire handle bar, clamp it in a vise between two pieces of wood and use a pipe wrench and PB Blaster. One bar end was so rusted I had to heat it with a torch and it still wouldn't budge, I gave up and walked away. Later after it cooled I tried again and it came apart. I started thinking about this and my theory is the air inside the bar expanded and then when it cooled it pulled the PB Blaster in past the corrosion. I filed the pipe wrench teeth marks down flush and filled the voids with JB Weld, I sanded it smooth after it was dry, applied a coat of primer and paint and they look like new.
Before you prime and paint them use a wire brush and Scotchbrite to clean the corrosion off of the threads, in and out. I reinstalled my hand tight with a light coat of grease on the threads.

Also, if the tubular portion of your bars are bent I found the the best way to straight them is with a hydraulic press using a machinst rule, or any straight edge to check your progress. Use wood blocks to hold the bar ends, works great!

[weymouth399]

The bar ends are loctited from the factory if you heat the bar end a little they should come off use a 8mm allen wrench
Bob

[rlucas]

I ended up using a pipe wrench on mine, then ground them back smooth and polished 'em, leaving the black paint in the groove. Looks pretty good, just takes the application of a little XXXX steel wool when I'm detailing the bike.

Be very careful when applying heat...you can melt the throttle tube. DAMHIK.

Rossi

[andyb]

Big heat and channel-lock pliers take them off, but it can definitely be bad for the throttle tube.  May as well pick up an R1 throttle while you're in there then....

[carsick]

Because an R1 throttle is better how? Never heard this mentioned...

[fj1289]

R1 tube should give quicker throttle action.  I say "should" because I haven't used an R1 tube, but have used YZF600R tube for that purpose.  I was using a motion pro throttle housing though, and had to clearance the inside of the assembly for it to work smoothly.  Should be good to go with the stock FJ housing though...(there's that word "should" again!) 

Sounds like Andy's using an R1 tube - how much movement to WOT with the stock carbs?

[Striker]

Hey thanks for the info on getting those weights off. Finally got those darn things off! It took me and a buddy each with a wrench and twisting. Out came the bar ends along with a good dusting of rust. Now looking forward to finding some decent grips to put on.

[the fan]

I run an R1/R6 throttle tube on my YZF600. It has about 15 degrees less pull stop to stop than the stock YZF part. Took a little modification to the cables and tube to get it to fit properly and work smoothly but works exactly as intended. No idea how it would compare to a FJ throttle tube.