Clutch spring

[captaudi]

Greetings,

I know there is a complete clutch section, and everyone's situation is different. I am due for clutch #2, this one has about 50k on it. If I go full throttle in 3rd when the engine is not fully up to heat it slips for a brief second. I think I put a FJR spring in last time (getting CRS Can't Remember Shit). I jumped on RPM to order up a replacement factory clutch and I figured I would throw a new spring at it at the same time. Looks like there are 3 options. Stock, FJR and EBC. Recommendations? 108k bike, I ride it hard and never clutch to upshift or downshift. First clutch lasted about 55k, this one has about 50k. So if nothing I am consistent.

Hope everyone is having a great riding season!

[Pat Conlon]

If you did read the Slipping Clutch post you would have seen a 4th option:



http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3ABarnettPP&cat=39

All Diaphram clutch springs suck, coil springs are the way to go.

[captaudi]

Pat,
I admit, I passed over the coil spring conversion. I guess the question is, what does it get me? I get 50k miles from a stock setup, I find the lever pull very easy and manageable. From what I read in the clutch file when you did the conversion you had already gone to the 14mm master. The stock being 5/8" (15.9mm). So your setup would be lighter than with the stock master. I guess sell me on the pros, I am game to try it if it would be an improvement.

Thanks,

[Pat Conlon]

Coil springs last longer than the oem Yamaha or EBC diaphragm springs, plus they are cheaper to replace if needed.

$55 oem Yamaha vs $29 for (6) coil springs.

http://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39&filter=Clutch%20spring

If you need a stiffer clutch, instead of adding a 2nd diaphragm spring, you just use the green springs ($29)

I had already converted over to the FJR clutch master just because it matched the FZ-1 brake master I'm using.

I have over 80k miles on my Barnett (green springs) / RPM clutch pack and that's with a 1380cc engine.

Are you wearing out your fiber plates and the spring...or just the spring?

[giantkiller]

I have the double stock spring on my 89. Don't really notice the pull. I also have the coil spring set up on my 1350r and have several more for future projects. Got good prices. Haven't had any slippage or replacement since converting. 1350r is very healthy. And I can't stop doing things like powering the front wheel up while the back wheel is spinning comming out of roundy rounds. The best feeling ever!! When no one else is around of course.
Oh yah converted all to full plates. No half plates for me.

[captaudi]

Getting back to this, been a crazy time at work. So I ordered the RPM clutch pack and the Barnett coil conversion. If I find the clutch pull heavy FZ1 clutch masters on eBay are plentiful and cheap.I already have the Spiegler braided line, should be a direct swap and a good match for the R1 brake master I have.

Thanks for everyone's input.

[Pat Conlon]

I think that's a good plan. Try the Barnett/gold springs with the RPM 7/1 clutch pack with your oem FJ clutch master....see how it feels. I think you'll be fine.

Just a point of clarification, the FZ-1 uses a cable clutch, it's the FJR that uses a hydraulic clutch, and there are plenty of those on FleaBay if you want a lighter pull.

Please report back and let us know how the Barnett/oem clutch master feels.

Cheers.  Pat

[FJ1200W]

Pat's right

[captaudi]

So, getting back to this. I just installed the RPM clutch pack and Barnett conversion. Old fiber plates measured right at 2.85mm. Wear limit is 2.8mm, so right on the edge. Clutch pull is definitely a little heavier. 10-15%? The down side is when I flushed the clutch this spring I had a hell of a time getting the last air bubbles out, all season it has felt like there may be one or two little ones left in there. Yup, can't get neutral easily. Looks like I'm just going to Fleabay and grabbing an FJR master. I think my 32 year old master is pulling air in past the seal. It will be perfect one day and the next it will have that telltale "soft" feeling for the first bit of travel. Pissing rain at the moment, test ride in the morning.

Cheers!

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks for the update Dan.
 Good to know about the slightly harder pull with Barrett using the oem FJ clutch master. (Using the gold Barnett springs, correct?)
  I'll alert folks about this....

I'm sure when you go from the larger 16mm (5/8") FJ master down to the 15mm FJR master, the lever pull will be better....plus those adjustable levers are handy.
I swear by my MityVac vacuum pump for bleeding my brakes and clutch.

Please....One last report when you get the FJR clutch master installed.

Cheers.  Pat

[captaudi]

The saga continues, while napping today (I love a power nap) I second guessed myself about placement of the narrow fiber plate. Guess what I need to RTFM (we all know what that means). So reassembled the clutch stack correctedly. While having it apart I pushed on the "mushroom" that engages the bearing in the plate. Felt great! Now I have no hydraulics  . Pulled the slave, moved out about 3-4mm and returns. I can not pump it out any further. My guess is the tiny orifice from the reservoir to the master is plugged not allowing the master to refill. And the slave that I rebuilt 5 years ago is leaking again. So lets load up the parts cannon and blow a few rounds at it. FJR master cylinder ordered off Fleabay. Master rebuild kit ordered from Revzilla. Trying to order a new slave from Randy, looks like his site is down. As soon as it is back up we can mark that as ordered. Why can't these things be simple?

Cheers?

[Pat Conlon]

Remove slave, put a piece of tubing on the bleed port (to prevent a mess and bubbled paint) Open the bleed port on the slave, push in the piston, hold the piston in while you close the bleed port, reinstall slave.