Fj1100 possible clutch bleed issues

[Fj1100 Rebuild project]

I've been working on putting my bike back together for the last month or so now, it is finally fully assembled and running. I put clutch fluid in it which admittedly is the first time I've bled a hydraulic system but when I tried to put it in gear it grinded and felt like the shifter was bouncing a bit so I stomped it into gear and the bike immediately shut off which was to be expected honestly. Upon inspection the clutch will go into first when engine is off but when I push the bike with the clutch in it feels like there's resistance almost like the clutch is slipping. I have pretty much narrowed it down to I suck at bleeding the system, the clutch feels really light until about half way into the engagement when it finally starts feeling like it's doing something... any tips or tricks on how to properly bleed the system?

[Sparky84]

Sounds like there's still air in line.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh9vpVejl1E

[red]

I tried to put it in gear it grinded and felt like the shifter was bouncing a bit so I stomped it into gear and the bike immediately shut off which was to be expected honestly.

Fj,

Stomping the shifter into gear can ruin the transmission in ONE move.  The gears may not fail, but if you bend the shifter forks, the bike may jump out of gear on acceleration, or flat refuse to engage a gear.  The only way back is an expensive transmission repair job, then.

It is normal for a clutch to stick, refusing to release, after the bike has been sitting idle for weeks.  This is true even when the hydraulics are all good.  Normally you would pull the clutch lever with the engine OFF, engage a gear, and push the bike forward and backward until the clutch releases.  Nice to have a helper, here.  You will need to bleed the clutch first, of course.

The clutch and front brake lines are difficult to bleed, because you are trying to push air down a vertical hose.  RPMracing has banjo bleeder bolts for the FJ handlebar master cylinders, which are a big help.  Always use new hydraulic washers when replacing a banjo bolt in the hydraulic hoses.  Alternately, somebody with a vacuum bleeder (and experience) can help with the bleeding process, also.

Keep us posted.

[Fj1100 Rebuild project]

I tried to put it in gear it grinded and felt like the shifter was bouncing a bit so I stomped it into gear and the bike immediately shut off which was to be expected honestly.

Fj,

Stomping the shifter into gear can ruin the transmission in ONE move.  The gears may not fail, but if you bend the shifter forks, the bike may jump out of gear on acceleration, or flat refuse to engage a gear.  The only way back is an expensive transmission repair job, then.

It is normal for a clutch to stick, refusing to release, after the bike has been sitting idle for weeks.  This is true even when the hydraulics are all good.  Normally you would pull the clutch lever with the engine OFF, engage a gear, and push the bike forward and backward until the clutch releases.  Nice to have a helper, here.  You will need to bleed the clutch first, of course.

The clutch and front brake lines are difficult to bleed, because you are trying to push air down a vertical hose.  RPMracing has banjo bleeder bolts for the FJ handlebar master cylinders, which are a big help.  Always use new hydraulic washers when replacing a banjo bolt in the hydraulic hoses.  Alternately, somebody with a vacuum bleeder (and experience) can help with the bleeding process, also.

Keep us posted.

Yeah "stomp" is a harsh word I didn't put any serious pressure on it or anything I just pressed it into gear faster so it wouldn't grind, the clutch doesn't feel stuck or anything I can roll the bike forward in gear without turning the engine over using the clutch but there definitely still is a little resistance. Could I bleed the clutch a bit more by cracking the banjo bolt on the master cylinder?

[FJmonkey]

Did you rebuild the master for the clutch?

[bettyswolloks]

I always bleed from the bottom up. Big old plastic syringe and a bit of rubber pipe. Just attach it to the bleed nipple and fill it up. Air travels upwards after all. I normally push the piston in as far in as possible, fill it up and as you start getting the piston moving you can get the piston so its around half way out then squeeze it in and it will force any stubborn trapped air upwards. Cable tie the lever down so its squeezing the lever good and hard over night and your ready to go, or stop depending what needed fettlin LOL
Been doing it over 20yrs and never had an issue.

[ajacstern]

Reverse bleed with a syringe is the way to go for clutches for sure. If it is a really tricky system I will bleed it the standard way after reverse bleeding but it is rarely ever necessary.