Changed a few things

[Sparky84]

Replaced rear pads and also pistons in calipers, old ones were pitted and with the new pads, seals would have been on those marks.
 
new pistons above came as a kit, but unsure why they are different, front ones recently changed were all thick ones.

Then replaced fluid for clutch, just a bit on the yuk side, felt a lot better once new fluid was going through, might need to get old slave resleeved with stainless sleeve, ready for seal change. always good to be prepared.
 
I can see into sight glass now

next was air filter, quick clean job compared to brake fluid crap ...

[T Legg]

Your fluid looks much better. I switched to dot 5 fluid a few years ago to protect my paint. So far no problems. I also use the HH pads on the front and that improved the braking quite a bit.
I have a newer set of forks and 17" front wheel that I bought a few years ago that has the dual piston calipers. I'm thinking about putting them on my black 84' 1100. It will be interesting to see if they improve the braking. I will still have the 16" rear wheel so I'll probably keep running sport demon tires.

[Pat Conlon]

I have a newer set of forks and 17" front wheel that I bought a few years ago that has the dual piston calipers. I'm thinking about putting them on my black 84' 1100. It will be interesting to see if they improve the braking. I will still have the 16" rear wheel so I'll probably keep running sport demon tires.

I followed that same modification sequence on my '84. Upgraded pads, SS lines, DOT 5 fluid....
.....then the big step in 1996, the 17" FZR rim conversion with '89 forks, .95kg/mm springs, Race Tec cartridge emulators (before the days of RPM) and blue spot mono-block calipers, HH pads (Reused the SS lines and DOT 5)

A couple of things I noticed... the narrow oem 16" front rim with the 120/80-16 Metzeler and dual faced vented rotors was much heavier than the 17 x 3.5" FZR rim, 120/70-17 tire and drilled single rotors I replaced it with...
I can't recall the exact weight difference but *I think* it was around 10 lbs difference.

Travis, if you get a chance, weigh the 2 wheels with rotors and tires and let me know.

Set aside the caliper upgrade for a moment, with less rotational mass to overcome your braking will be better and your steering will be lighter, also with less unsprung weight your forks will work much better.

I know you will notice a difference.   Cheers.   Pat

[T Legg]

I'll try and weigh them tomorrow. My 17" front rim is from a newer FJ so it's probably heavier than your wheel. I can weigh the rims , calipers and rotors . I'll have to wait until I buy a 17" tire to see if there is any weight saved between the 16 and 17 inch tires.
  The forks.have progressive springs so I plan to get straight rate springs and since I weigh about 210 lbs probably stiffer than stock also. I think I should buy the rpm cartridges also. Frank up in Oregon seemed pretty happy with his modified FJ forks .It's only money.

[giantkiller]

I know there's machine work to the slave. But where do you get the stainless sleeve?  Or where can you get one  sleeved.

[Pat Conlon]

Dan, did you see Simon's (Earl Svorks) write up on SS sleeve's for the clutch slave?

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=12294.0

The hard part would fabricating the jig to hold the slave in the lathe needed to bore out for the sleeve.

[FJmonkey]

The hard part would fabricating the jig to hold the slave in the lathe needed to bore out for the sleeve.

The bore could be done on a mill as well.

[Sparky84]

I know there's machine work to the slave. But where do you get the stainless sleeve?  Or where can you get one sleeved.

Apparently a place in South Australia, a few here have had it done.
Below is what they state they do on invoice. Got no idea on how.
But if there isn't anymore corrosion and pitting , it should be good.

"CLUTCH SLAVE BODY
Clean and inspect unit for casting or thread damage and repair.
Bore cylinder to accept stainless steel sleeve, drill ports, chamfer and hone to standard size. Bead blast, paint and final inspection."

[Urx]

Sounds good. How much does that cost ?

[Bones]

Any brake or hydraulic shop should be able to do the job. I got my clutch master cyl on my 4Runner fitted with a stainless sleeve years ago. That same shop made the rear brake line for my FJ when converting to a GSXR rear wheel. Surely a place the size of the US has plenty of these places in every suburb.

[Sparky84]

Sounds good. How much does that cost ?

About $97 was last price I saw but that's AUD, so in USD it'd be about 65$, plus postage there and back which would be the killer