is it possible to bypass the reserve switch system on a 91 3xw

[jono]

Ive got this ceramic resistor from my 1tx the part number is 1TX-85370-00-00 the resistor on my 3xw part number is 3KS-85370-00-00

i might swap them can you see a problem with that???

[wainot-Phil]

mmmm i don't like the idea of no fuel pump i'm pretty sure i runs lean when the pumps not working that's my problem Ive disconnected the reserve switch now and joined the wires which is now permanently on reserve and the fuel gauge is my only means of knowing the fuel level  and its running fine ,one thing puzzles me about the ceramic resistor when i got my bike the wires to it were corroded and one was broken so i re soldered it and i know its sound ,maybe its stuffed. Here's a question my 1tx gravity feed donor bike has got one as well what else does it do ? ,i might swap it out for the one on my 3xw and I'm definitely going to check the voltage on the pump and the resistor and the sender unit wires coming out of the tank the difference to how it runs with the pump working and not is dramatic ,its a brand new pump as well

jono

The Bike will run no worries if you bypass the Fuel Pump for testing and to get it Tuned , The only diff between the Fuel Pump Carbs and Gravity Feed carbs ,, is that in the Fuel Needle Seat Holes are a little Bigger/rounder on the gravity feed Carbs to let a larger amount of fuel into the Fuel Bowl . But either way the Bike  should run just fine with the pump bypassed or not . I have done this many times , I do it every time I tune a Bike up  ,,1st thing I do is I remove the FJ Tank to access  the Mixtures screws and Balance the Carbs , All done without the fuel pump hooked up at all ,  I plug a rubber fuel hose straight into the Carbs that is  connected to an old Lawn Mower Fuel Tank ,

[jono]

well i think Ive finally sorted my running lean problem ,I think the problem Ive been having was the fuel pump turning off for some reason ,to day i swapped out the ceramic resistor for one off my 1tx and bypassed the pump relay and it now starts and runs better. I'm not sure if the relay was faulty or if it was the  the resistor either way Ive wired the pump to start when key is turned on and it runs way better, so here's hoping ,the first thing i noticed is i don't need any where as much choke as I used to I took it for a 60km run today and it ran really well tomorrow I'll check the sync and dial in the idle mixture

thanks for your input guys

Jono

[yambutt]

Unplug your ceramic resistor and meter for ohms...it should be around 70 ohms and if not put the other one in if it reads around 70 ohms but if your intent to keep your reserve switch wires shorted then just forget about that resistor cause it will do you no good.

[jono]

ok so the ceramic resistor is relevant to the reserve switch that explains why the 1tx has got one, Ive swapped them over and wired the pump to the ignition switch now and tuned the mixture in it definitely runs richer at start now and the pump hardly makes a noise when i turn the key on and if i put my hand on it at idle i can feel a click every couple of seconds  so it is  working good now. I'm pretty sure some thing in the fuel pump circuit is worn out i checked and fixed all the connections in the loom when i started the rebuild but I'm not going to go any further now I'm quite happy with a fuel gauge and a pump i know is working all the time ,I took it for hard fast ride today and it ran perfectly cant think of a reason to have the reserve switch working anyway the gauge is enough and I'm glad i now know there's no low fuel light i was sure i had read guys talking a bout one but i looked and i ain't got one that's for sure 

jono

[yambutt]

Good luck with it and be safe