Started Install of Transpo Voltage Regulator, Then Found This...

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Mike, sure, if you need both a new rectifier and voltage regulator, I don't see why not...
1) If the unit is compatible with our FJ's and 2) You have the space to fit?
How much does it cost? Is it adjustable?  (Transpo IB301A is $37)
Do you have any specs on the unit?

Most often, just a Voltage Regulator is all that is needed.

Marty's case is the only one I know where his rectifier also went south.

Cheers  Pat

[Miker]

Hi Pat

Thanks for the fast reply.  Good questions.  My original rectifier seems to be functioning correctly after performing the resistance testing outlined in the Clymer manual.  My logic in replacing the two separate rectifier and regulator units with a dual rectifier/regulator unit is due to cost and availability.  Seems aftermarket motorcycle rectifier/regulator units are almost literally a dime a dozen and are therefor readily available.  As far as the specs are concerned, I can't seem to find specific specs on the OEM Nippon Denso generator unit aside the stator resistance of .2 ohms, let alone the new rectifier/regulator units.  However, from what I've read, the functionality of a motorcycle stator/rectifier/regulator seems to be relatively universal, which might account for the sea of cheap aftermarket parts out there, and why Marty was able to use a Volvo car regulator and a handmade universal rectifier built by a guy in Oregon. 

So, I went through the yamahapartshouse.com site and viewed all the liter-class bikes from '85 on until I found a bike that used a rectifier/regulator unit instead of the Nippon Denso generator unit in the '85 FJ1100.  Looks like Yamaha used the Nippon Denso generator assembly through 1997 and switched over to an external rectifier/regulator in the '98 R1.  So I grabbed that part number and googled it.  It appears that's a six pin unit.  Then I found rectifier/regulator 5KP-81960-00-00 for '02 FZ1.  Googled that and mostly ebay links came up.  The prices for used and new wildly vary, which leads to the fact that the auto industry uses different part numbers for the exact same units in order to rip the customer for more money knowing that most people will think "I need that exact part number or it won't work".  Ebay offers suggestions and this came up: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322819343596 advertised for YAMAHA YZFR1 R1.  Specs are full wave, 14.5V, and 1W power.  $12. 

It can be mounted anywhere.  Seems newer bikes mount the unit in the front by the horn. 

Despite my love for the FJ, it has it's problems being a 33 year old machine, and I don't want to burn through expensive parts (Rick's or Nippon Denso ESR025 internal regulators), or spend a dime more than I have to, as the issue may reoccur.  One other thing I'm worried about: a statement in the description for the Rick's regulator "* Before replacing this Regulator please check the OHMs reading on your rotor; a reading of 3.5 - 4.5 OHMs is required. Without sufficient resistence, failure will result & the warranty will be void.".  That statement is listed for the Nippon Denso internal unit as well.  Clymer lists the resistance as 4.0 +-5% ohms.  How do I test the resistance of the generator field rotor?  I don't think that process is listed in the manual as I didn't see it.   

I hope that logic makes sense to you as well.  I am new to all of this. Please let me know what you guys think.

Thanks
Mike

[Pat Conlon]

Don't over complicate it, if your rectifier is ok, leave it alone. Install the Transpo, adjust the output to 14.4 volts and call it a day.

We know the Transpo works, and tucks away nicely under the FJ's side panel.

If cost is a concern, here is a China knock off of the Transpo IB301a for $23 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/HEAVY-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-ADJUSTABLE-FEATURE/dp/B014GN1YLK

[FJ_Hooligan]

First, I'd like to say: "Do what Pat is suggesting."  It has worked for him and others for MANY years.

However, I think you might be onto something.  But I think you're going to have to dig a little deeper.

If there are any electrical purists out there, please forgive me as I'm probably not going to be totally correct in my description.  That said:

The OEM FJ is an alternator-type charging device which regulates the voltage output using a voltage feedback signal to the field generator in the alternator. 

The device you are showing is used with a 3-phase shunt-type generator.  Voltage output of the rotor/stator is not regulated (although it does vary with engine speed).  The regulator takes everything the rotor/stator is putting out and decides how much goes to the battery then dumps the rest of the output as heat.  Consequently, these units tend to run HOT and need to be mounted in a location that provides adequate cooling (usually near the front of the bike).  There is a Mosfet device which can be used in place of the shunt-type that runs MUCH cooler (see EasternBeaver.com for conversion/wiring advice, I did this conversion on my '02 FZ1).

I'm just guessing here but if you want to use a shunt or Mosfet rectifier/regulator on the output of the OEM FJ alternator you PROBABLY (again, not 100% sure) want the full output of the 3-phase and rewire those connections directly to the new R/R.  This would mean disabling or bypassing the OEM FJ rectifying and regulating functions.  Going directly to the 3-phase output wires SHOULD effectively bypass ANY OEM signal conditioning. 

You would probably want to disconnect the alternator field sense feedback wire just in case.  Doing this would make the OEM try to output the maximum voltage.  I do not know if this feedback is applied to the output of the 3-phase voltages or the output of the rectified voltage.

DISCLAIMER:  DOING ANY OF THE ABOVE WITHOUT CONFIRMING FIRST COULD CAUSE YOU TO FRY THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OF YOUR FJ!

I am simply trying to pass on knowledge that I gained from converting my FZ1. 

I have had the RPM internal regulator installed in 2 FJs for several years now with no problems in the hot Texas weather.

Your best bet is to do more research before pursuing this.

[Miker]

Hello:

Used the Files section to install the Transpo Voltage Regulator after deeming the OEM one puked. Found a place for it under the rear fender cover/cowl, and mounted it using a crudely fashioned bracket out of 1.5" X 1.5" X 0.125" angle aluminum. \

Mounted the bracket with a couple of M6 fasteners, putting them through a couple of existing holes in the rear subframe's rear lateral brace, and used large OD flat washers and hex nuts with Loktite to secure.

Marty

Transpo Install Pic - Top View

http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1388_03_09_13_3_44_15.jpeg

Transpo Install Pic - Side View

http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1388_03_09_13_3_50_08.jpeg

Transpo Install Pic - Rear View

http://fjowners.com/gallery/5/1388_03_09_13_3_45_07.jpeg

Thanks for the replies guys.  I appreciate the input.  I understand how a rectifier/regulator functions, which is why I asked about rewiring the bike to fit the standard/cheap aftermarket part.  I also mentioned wiring the unit to the front of the bike near the horn to maximize air cooling. 

Hi Marty

I searched around in the files section, but could not find the transpo installation files you mentioned.  I probably just missed it.  Could you please post a link?

Thanks
Mike

[Pat Conlon]

Here ya go:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0

[Miker]

Here ya go:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0

Great thanks!

[FJ1200W]

The search tool: Works very well.

Thanks Pat!