Texas FJ1200

[SpiderFJ1200]

After doing a bit of digging, I think my front brakes are off a 2003-2005 FJR1300 while the rear calipers are stock. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Pat Conlon]

HH sintered pads do not play nice with cast iron rotors, but you don't have those. Sintered pads are fine with your stock stainless steel rotors
On the front you have the R-1 style monoblock blue spot calipers (also used on other models)
On the back you have the stock FJ 16" wheel and caliper.

Rpm has both pads in stock, you want;
R-1 front
FJ rear

[SpiderFJ1200]

Just finished the rear brakes, and the front a few days ago. Working at night while it is reasonably comfortable outside. I really like the EBC pads. Thank you guys, and RPM for all of the support thus far. I was surprised at how easy they made changing the pads on these bikes. I'm not accustomed to the process being so well engineered. The way the pads go in and come out of the caliper without having to unbolt anything is very cool. My front pads were still within limits spec, but my rear had just started grating metal on metal. I started with this bike being in desperate need of maintenance, so I've prioritized the things that are frequent maintenance items and safety concerns. I will eventually get around to the various oil leaks, but at least for now she's roadworthy. I'll try to avoid any hard braking for the next hundred miles or so to break in the new pads.

[Pat Conlon]

Good deal Robert....was the back rotor ok? Usually when it gets to the metal on metal stage the rotor is FUBAR

[SpiderFJ1200]

Good deal Robert....was the back rotor ok? Usually when it gets to the metal on metal stage the rotor is FUBAR

It had started getting some grooves into the rotor, but not very deep. Just from the riding I did Thursday, the rotor looks a bit more leveled out. I got to it pretty quickly after I felt the metal on metal while braking. I think it will be alright after properly bedding the brake pads.

[SpiderFJ1200]

I get on the bike this morning, and first thing I notice is that the clutch lever is super weak. I look at the reservoir window, but it's really cloudy. Can barely make out the metal behind the window, and don't see any fluid at all. I crack open the reservoir and its nearly empty. So first order of business today is to get some DOT4, and probably a bleed kit.

But my question is: Is there a way to clean up the visibility of these windows?

All of mine on my bike or almost useless as they are. Also discovered "Wandering FJ Rider" 's YouTube channel. Saw he had an FJOwners.com tshirt on.

[SpiderFJ1200]

I hadn't anticipated the struggle of finding DOT#4. None of the gas stations in the area or the dollar stores had it. My roommate picked some up on the way home from work. I added it to the reservoir, but there is air in the lines. I tried coaxing it out with the clutch lever, with some success, but not enough to fully disengage the clutch. So it lurches and dies as soon as it's shifted into gear. I have a bleed kit arriving tomorrow. I'm sure an auto parts store would have it, but the bike is my only source of transportation without bumming a ride from someone else.