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Dropping The Front - How Low Can You Go.

Started by Little Pink Steve, March 25, 2020, 09:55:49 PM

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Little Pink Steve

Glad to have helped  :good:  I believe it's the GEN 1 Busa bones that are 115mm.  Please check before purchasing

Still didn't get my original question answered  :sarcastic:

Looks like I'll be finding out what it's like dropping my front end 30mm when I do my R1 fork swap.
Currently ride 3CV White 1989

Currently working on a Yamaho FJ Bitsa.

fj1289

You won't have an issue with stability.   You may have an issue with ground clearance - watch for bottoming your exhaust (especially with a 4-1) over speed bumps, etc. 

Although my R1 forks were quite a bit shorter than FJ forks - I mounted them flush with the top of the triple clamp - made up a good amount of the difference.  I'm using a tube handle bar mounted to the top clamp. 

Little Pink Steve

Quote from: fj1289 on May 28, 2020, 11:00:10 AM
You won't have an issue with stability.   You may have an issue with ground clearance - watch for bottoming your exhaust (especially with a 4-1) over speed bumps, etc. 

Although my R1 forks were quite a bit shorter than FJ forks - I mounted them flush with the top of the triple clamp - made up a good amount of the difference.  I'm using a tube handle bar mounted to the top clamp. 

The difference on mine will be, I believe 30mm.  I pressed the stem into to lower yoke today and will offer everything up on my spare frame to work out how much to machine off the l/h fork so I can retain a mechanical speedo drive.

If it wasn't such a pita to post pictures on here I'd share.
Currently ride 3CV White 1989

Currently working on a Yamaho FJ Bitsa.

Little Pink Steve

Currently ride 3CV White 1989

Currently working on a Yamaho FJ Bitsa.

axiom-r

Little Pink Steve-

That is looking awfully familiar to me...   FZ 8 or 9 top Triple???  You will love the finished look.

Curious about the press in on the stem. Did you add an extension or build up material and then have it turned for proper clearance?

We added some length to the steering stem when I did my conversion to accommodate the thicker lower triple from the R1.  I added fork extensions to my set up and then lowered the total front ride height by the 5mm Andy referred to as a reference "max".  The rest of my adjustments came by raising the rear end. My back wheel sits about a half inch off the ground on the center stand.

The custom Penske shock I used connected up with an R1 billet aluminum dog bone has a spring with 1300lb weight.  Regardless of the shock or spring weight you end up with in the back - get a torrington bearing kit in there to make adjustment SO much easier.  
1992 FJ1200 w 2007 R1 Front & Rear

Little Pink Steve

R1 4xv lower & FZ1 upper.

I'm using Thunderace wheels and Fazer swingarm.

What springs did you use in your R1 forks?
Currently ride 3CV White 1989

Currently working on a Yamaho FJ Bitsa.

axiom-r

Fork Springs are Progressives for my weight.   My parts were all 2007.
1992 FJ1200 w 2007 R1 Front & Rear

2big

Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM
Glad to have helped  :good:  I believe it's the GEN 1 Busa bones that are 115mm.  Please check before purchasing

Still didn't get my original question answered  :sarcastic:

Looks like I'll be finding out what it's like dropping my front end 30mm when I do my R1 fork swap.

Up 30 at the back and down 30 at the front...that's an aggressive stance! R1 forks and custom triple clamps - wow! awesome mods Steve.

Little Pink Steve

Quote from: 2big on May 29, 2020, 05:31:24 PM
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM
Glad to have helped  :good:  I believe it's the GEN 1 Busa bones that are 115mm.  Please check before purchasing

Still didn't get my original question answered  :sarcastic:

Looks like I'll be finding out what it's like dropping my front end 30mm when I do my R1 fork swap.

Up 30 at the back and down 30 at the front...that's an aggressive stance! R1 forks and custom triple clamps - wow! awesome mods Steve.

Only thinking about a custom offset top yoke so it's only 10mm drop.  I'm planning on touring on my ambulance and whilst chopping things about I still need comfort and stability.

Currently ride 3CV White 1989

Currently working on a Yamaho FJ Bitsa.

axiom-r

Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM

Only thinking about a custom offset top yoke so it's only 10mm drop.  I'm planning on touring on my ambulance and whilst chopping things about I still need comfort and stability.



How long is the Fazer swingarm??   The 2007 R1 swingarm and ThunderAce swingarm both add abut 2" of length to stock wheelbase.  I was worried about turn-in but the extra length is not noticeable to me and adds stability... 
1992 FJ1200 w 2007 R1 Front & Rear

fj1289

 Score going through the effort and cost of a lowered top clamp - try it first and see if you even want it.  Either way I highly doubt a "need" for it

Little Pink Steve

 :flag_of_truce:
Quote from: axiom-r on May 30, 2020, 04:42:41 PM
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM

Only thinking about a custom offset top yoke so it's only 10mm drop.  I'm planning on touring on my ambulance and whilst chopping things about I still need comfort and stability.



How long is the Fazer swingarm??   The 2007 R1 swingarm and ThunderAce swingarm both add abut 2" of length to stock wheelbase.  I was worried about turn-in but the extra length is not noticeable to me and adds stability... 

My understanding is the Thunderace swingarm is about the same as the FJ. The Fazer is around 50mm longer.
Currently ride 3CV White 1989

Currently working on a Yamaho FJ Bitsa.

axiom-r

When I was doing my conversion I had a Thunderace and an R1 swingarm because I wasn't at all sure the R1 unit would go on.  The Thunderace had been used by several others and was a confirmed positive upgrade.  As I recall, the two swingarms were the same length - I might be forgetful on that....   

Either way, the added 50mm of the Fazer unit will be a welcome feeling within the geometry and will allow more front end drop if you desire it without the dreaded twitch.  Once the bike is together, fit new tires and confirm proper air pressures.  Get up to a decent speed and roll off the throttle with your palms against the bar ends.  You can feel if the bike wants to fall in as it slows down. Gently pushing on one side or the other will turn you in that direction and if it oscillates you have the kind of twitch that could be a tank slapper... raise the front up slightly and try again until you have the desired feeling.  For whatever reason the oscillations "tank slappers" occur more frequently under a decelerating condition - which is why you can typically power out of them.  I have no idea if the method I use (as described) is efficient or effective for everybody but I have found settings I really like doing it this way.
1992 FJ1200 w 2007 R1 Front & Rear