Clutch Won't disengage

[the_kirkwood]

OK, so this is likely something I caused. In fact, I have no doubt.
Clutch was working before I touched it!

So, I replaced the OEM clutch hose with Spiegler braided hose. New lever and brass insert.
Bled the clutch and now it won't disengage.  Tried to bleed from slave cylinder using large syringe. NO difference.

Figured I should rebuild the master cylinder and slave cylinder.
Found a bit of crap in there but nothing obvious. New seals, spring etc in place.
Rebuilt them both with OEM rebuild kits.
Bled clutch again. Still the same. Tried bleeding using clutch lever and filling from bleed nipple using large syringe.
Have good resistence on clutch lever but clutch won't disengage completely.
Can just about get it to slightly slip with clutch lever fully engaged but wheel still spins when bike is idling on centerstand with lever pulled in.
Was working fine before I started.   

Any ideas what I did?

[red]

The Kirkwood,

My first thought is the new clutch lever/new insert is causing the problem.  Try replacing those two things with the stock parts.  If that "fixes" your problem, at least you will know where to start.  If the old stuff does the job, you can probably still use the new parts.  Add tiny washers into the new brass insert, to make the clutch rod hole less deep.  Once you have the right number of washers in there, and everything seems fine, then add one more washer to the brass insert for good measure.  You can use a dab of heavy grease to "stick" the washers in place, inside the brass insert.

It may be enough to simply use the old brass insert in the new lever, if it fits.

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, good advice from Red (as usual) go back to the stuff you know that works.

Here's something you could try to make sure all the air is purged.
Squeeze your clutch lever in, hold it in with some bungee straps, etc,  Let it sit overnight or two with the lever pulled in... Some sort of voodoo black magic shit happens, I dunno, I (secretly) laughed when folks swore this worked to get the stubborn air bubbles out of the clutch line....so when my trusty MityVac lost a seal and wouldn't hold a vacuum, I gave this method a try....yea, go ahead and laugh, but it works.

[Paul.1478]

When I rebuilt my slave it was near impossible to bleed it. I could get no pressure no matter how many times I pumped it up.
What worked for me was to very slowly press the slave cylinder in and you could see the air bleeding out the master (be careful if pressed to hard you will have break fluid all over your tank, I know) I would wait a few seconds then let it come back out. Replete, fill the master and when the bubbles stopped coming out the master, I was able to finish bleeding the "normal" way.

[fj1289]

Try cracking the banjo bolt at the master cylinder.  Then repeat with the banjo bolt at the slave cylinder.   

Then try this:

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18653.msg188838;topicseen#msg188838

[red]

the Kirkwood,

Speaking of banjo bolts, you can get them now which have an ordinary bleeder nipple installed in them.  Makes it easy to bleed the brake line itself at the high point, next to the master cylinder.  

The right price for them is about ~US15.00 each but you can pay three times that price, unless you shop around.
.

[the_kirkwood]

So I did a little bit of further testing now that I have the rebuild kits installed.
Before when I started bike, then put it in gear it would stall.
Now with master cylinder and slave kits installed when its on the centerstand the rear wheel spins but when I press the rear brake it stops, no longer stalls, and will stay stopped until I start to release the clutch lever.  I am almost certain the clutch is bled fully.
I inserted a small washer into the new brass lever insert to give the lever more travel.  Same result.
I'm wondering if its because I changed the oil to Shell rotella 15w40. I read that this is a decent oil for older air cooled bike engines.  Would this cause the issue?

[red]

Now with master cylinder and slave kits installed when its on the centerstand the rear wheel spins but when I press the rear brake it stops, no longer stalls, and will stay stopped until I start to release the clutch lever.  I am almost certain the clutch is bled fully.  .uld this cause the issue?

The Kirkwood,

What issue?  What you describe is perfectly normal.  Oil viscosity can cause the rear wheel to rotate, especially when in gear, but that is okay.  If the bike rides and shifts normally now, and does not try to leap forward going from Neutral to First gear, all is well.  Ride on!

[FJmonkey]

What Red describes is normal and more prominent when cold. Both my FJs do this. The oil in the clutch assembly is still spinning on the engine side. If the clutch side is free to spin then it will. A touch of rear brake  or even my foot will stop the rear wheel spin. But it does not stall the engine. Fixed, whats next?

[the_kirkwood]

Perfect.  Thats what I needed to hear.

Before I rebuilt the master and slave it would stall as soon as i put it in gear.
But not any more.

Thanks for all the advice.