raising forks in top triple clamp

[bigbore2]

Was wondering how everyone is running their fork/clamp position?

Bike is 84 1100.  I did the Honda 600 rear shock swap and have stock front fork springs.   Bike was a tail dragger in corners as the clamp was all the way up to the top of the forks.    I ended up dropping the clamp 13/16" / 19mm. What a difference that made.

Now I can feel the front end and the rear both in turns, seems balanced now front to rear.  Stable up to 110 mph / 177 kph.   Have not tried to go any faster.  The original set-up started a little headshake at 110mph.

Just wondering what your doing with your fork location.

[ribbert]

Was wondering how everyone is running their fork/clamp position?

I ended up dropping the clamp 13/16" / 19mm. What a difference that made.

Now I can feel the front end and the rear both in turns, seems balanced now front to rear.  Stable up to 110 mph / 177 kph.   Have not tried to go any faster.  The original set-up started a little headshake at 110mph.

Just wondering what your doing with your fork location.

Opinions vary on this but my own experience is that dropping the front 17mm (I think) and playing with increased rear end height, there was a sweet spot to be found that improved cornering dramatically without compromising straight line stability.
It was so good I never fitted my fork brace and have not had broken mudguard tabs nor experienced any of the symptoms associated with flexi forks. That was a couple of hundred thousand km's ago.

I never say my FJ "handles well for it's age" I just say it handles well. I have a standard FJ for reference on one side and a late model BMW on the other side and even compared to that it handles well. The bog standard FJ feels like a different bike, perfectly rideable but not in the league of modern bikes or modified FJ's.

My only complaint it's a bit firm up to and including legal highway speeds when putting in big days.

Noel

[chiz]

Tail dragger I tried to find the real meaning of this term for motorcycles but didn't find anything.. Does it just me slow or sluggish?

   Chiz

[Millietant]

With my USD front end set-up the steering head sits about 1/2" lower, and with the Hagon shock set-up the rear is 3/8"  higher (although I think I lost a few mm with the switch to the 170/60 back tyre).

Overall result though is handling that is way better than standard and that keeps me happy even when judged alongside to the FZ1 (with R6 rear shock and dog bone mod) and the Aprilia RSV for road riding.

For laps around the Nurburgring Nordschleife though, both Yamaha's are mobile sofa's compared to my Aprilia

[Bones]

I probably wouldn't go any lower than what you've gone otherwise the forks will hit the bottom triple tree on full compression. I've got mine at the standard height and with a zip tie around the fork leg leaves about an inch spare before hitting.

[bigbore2]

hey Noel.    Looks like I am in the ballpark then as it feels good front to rear.
A couple hundred thousand km's?  I guess you've had a few big days.

[bigbore2]

Chiz-  taildragger.  I guess that may be my own term. It just means that the front/rear weight bias is too much to the rear and one cannot feel much ,if any  weight up front when turning.  It can be best felt in a long sweeping turn, like on a freeway ramp or curvy road, is where I felt mine the most. 

[Pat Conlon]

I understand the need for getting more weight on the front tire. I totally agree.

Getting a stronger shock spring (new shock) and getting the rear end raised is super helpful.
......and getting the front slightly lowered is also helpful.....

However....
IMHO Lowering the front end 13/16" without changing out those oem weak sauce, sacked out, fork springs is a recipe for disaster.

New fork springs are ~$110 which is chump change if you look at the big picture.
If money is tight, do the springs now and get the fork valves or cartridge emulators later.
If you plan on doing the fork valves or emulators later, get straight rate fork springs now.
If you don't plan on future fork valves or emulators, progressive springs are a good choice.
Either way, get those 35 year old oem springs out of your forks.

[giantkiller]

Or just go inverted.

[bigbore2]

hope to do the front/rear suspension mods with newer parts, USD forks and whatever in back.  Would be nice to have 17" rims too and upgraded brakes. That however is a ways-off.  like a year.

the front end feels good. Better than my 900 Kawa did.  The whole bike feels way better than my 900.

i have an engine problem with low compression in #1.  Gotta solve that issue first. But everything will get handled.
I can say I will never get rid of this bike. its grown on me a lot.

Its just so great having a forum to get help from.  Many thanx to everyone.