Putting in new riser bars and right 8mm hex barend is seized

[Motofun]

WD40 is good stuff .....for cleaning up a greasy mess.  It's mostly kerosene....expensive kerosene at that.

[ribbert]

Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40.  The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.

Good luck trying to get that message across, I've been preaching it for 50 years. It makes a good handyman penetrant and Water Displacement product but even the need for that these days is rare, and that's it.

WD40 mostly evaporates leaving a residue that has no real lubricating qualities.

If anyone tells you of another use for it, there is always something that will do it better and cheaper.

To this day it makes me laugh when I recall the CRC (same as WD40) rep in the late 60's, in an age before electrical safety switches were even heard of this guy would come into the workshop, fill a bucket with water, have someone hand him a leadlight (240v with a household globe), spray it with CRC and plunge his hand into the bucket of water with the light switched on, all this to sell a can of product that back then cost less than a dollar. We only ever used it for wet ignitions so a can lasted a long time.

If the WD40 knock off had failed, or he'd missed a bit, he'd be dead. I've never forgotten that this bloke would risk his life many times a day just to make a commission on an item that cost less than a dollar.

Noel

[ribbert]

WD40 is good stuff .....for cleaning up a greasy mess.  It's mostly kerosene....expensive kerosene at that.

If you've got a compressor, get one of these, a kero gun.



The kero is blasted out at 120+psi and the nozzle is adjustable.

Noel

[big r]

About the only thing I use WD 40 for is a starting fluid. Works great and is better and safer than ether

[ribbert]

....and is better and safer than ether

...but that's what makes ether so good 

Noel

[CutterBill]

...how about i dampen the weighted end by putting some foam/rubber between the barend and the bar, it will dampen the movement , but won't rattle freely?

You're missing the point. You want the bar end to be rigidly attached to the handlebar. You are changing the weight of the bar and therefore, the frequency at which it will vibrate. Ideally, you would weld the bar end to the handlebar (but then you couldn't get the grips off.) You can't have any movement at all between the bar and bar ends.

Apply anti-seize or your black grease (which I assume is moly grease, yes?) to the threads and tighten the bar ends. Sorry, I haven't found my bar ends that I modified with an external hex. They're around here somewhere...
Bill

[RPM - Robert]

...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...

Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill

RPM Handlebar End Set- Yamaha FJ

These are designed to absorb the frequency Bill is referring to.

[PaulG]

When I took my bar ends off my 89 a boat load of steel BBs fell out (.177 I think from the copper color) . Guessing that was intended to help vibration....

That used to be the cure for the Kawi H1 or H2 2-stroke triples.    Some good old buckshot in the bars, and the only thing you had to worry about after that was the spaghetti frame. 

[mtc]

When I took my bar ends off my 89 a boat load of steel BBs fell out (.177 I think from the copper color) . Guessing that was intended to help vibration....

That used to be the cure for the Kawi H1 or H2 2-stroke triples.    Some good old buckshot in the bars, and the only thing you had to worry about after that was the spaghetti frame.  

and the wicked powerband kawi triples, rode my RD400 built by spec II, good nuff for a 2 stroke