what would a police "black & white" painted scheme look like on a fj1100?

[mtc]

i am dreaming if i think i am going thru painting a bike, let alone my bike with the paint in the great condition it is in.

however as "safe" as the red on white is... it's a bit much on the eyes, screaming something idk what but screaming nonetheless

i've seen yellow, orange, blues, classic yamie race themes

however

no subtle police colors/scheme, anyone got one they even care to show me?

https://www.google.com/search?q=police+motorcycles&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwih1JHA0orkAhVJOKwKHTpgDVEQ_AUIESgB&biw=1083&bih=654

police drop bikes too, but this is some lame riding, seems like he slammed on the rear brakes

https://dfw.cbslocal.com/2019/01/16/video-crash-irving-police-motorcycle-officers/

[Pat Conlon]

I don't think a black and white color scheme would look good. You need 3 colors....

I do like Mark Alva's (RIP) grey and white with black accents.

[aviationfred]

I agree with Pat, One solid color paint and one solid color stripes may be too stark. A 3rd color needs to be incorporated.

When I picked up my 87 it was solid satin black. All I did was add the 89 Gold/Silver stripe kit and all was right.

When I did the Casper paint job on the spare body work for the 1300, Solid Satin white with the European Red/Black/Silver stripe kit it turned out great.




Fred

[Dieselman7.3]

I don't think a black and white color scheme would look good. You need 3 colors....

I do like Mark Alva's (RIP) grey and white with black accents.

That's a good looking paint scheme
I've been thinking about doing a dark grey/black but looking at these I agree that there needs to be a third color in there.... maybe I alittle white with my grey black. My thoughts grey where the red is black where the white is and maybe white stripes where the black stripes are

[ribbert]

That grey and white is very nice, I really like it. I reckon it would look even better on the 3XW.

Hmmm, I have a couple of sets of spare plastic.

Noel

[mtc]

I don't think a black and white color scheme would look good. You need 3 colors....

I do like Mark Alva's (RIP) grey and white with black accents.

this is understated and looks clean, very slick, that is lookin good

yes a mature gentleman's bike, vs splat

not that i am gona do it, just research, just research

so once again to earl sheib , do i primer?, or rough it up with what 2000 grit?

go to autozone and eyeball any "metallic" grey  and forget about clear coats?

and does the fairing come off easy?

and where to they make "FJ1100" decals?

lol

[Tuned forks]

[/quote]

this is understated and looks clean, very slick, that is lookin good

yes a mature gentleman's bike, vs splat

not that i am gona do it, just research, just research

so once again to earl sheib , do i primer?, or rough it up with what 2000 grit?

go to autozone and eyeball any "metallic" grey  and forget about clear coats?

and does the fairing come off easy?

and where to they make "FJ1100" decals?

lol
[/quote]

Assuming your questions are not rhetorical, here is my take after many years of paint...

Yes, a primer sealer should be used between what you have now and a new paint job.
No, 2000 grit is used for color sanding paint prior to final buff.  For a primer sealer, sand with 400 grit.  Sealers are thinner than primer filler so they need a finer grit than primer filler.

If you're going to the parts store for spray bombs, sure you could invest in that for a sample.  Not what I'd want to use to paint my motorcycle though.  Eyeball newer cars and trucks as well.
I do recommend a basecoat/clearcoat finish as the clear offer protection and durability.  Plus, if you scuff or scratch the clear but the basecoat is okay, it's easily repairable.

Front upper fairing?  Well that depends on your definition of easy.  For me this past spring, even with the correct tools, it was about a three hour job.  That was taking my time to make sure there were no oh $h!t moments.

MTC, real paint is expensive.  More so here in Kalifornia.  There are some deals to be had online but I like the customer service of buying from my local paint jobber.  If you have a problem, they are there to help.

Joe

[mtc]

I agree with Pat, One solid color paint and one solid color stripes may be too stark. A 3rd color needs to be incorporated.

When I picked up my 87 it was solid satin black. All I did was add the 89 Gold/Silver stripe kit and all was right.

When I did the Casper paint job on the spare body work for the 1300, Solid Satin white with the European Red/Black/Silver stripe kit it turned out great.




Fred

i like the satin look too... yamaha wanted it loud in the beginning and then tame it a little

[mtc]

this is understated and looks clean, very slick, that is lookin good

yes a mature gentleman's bike, vs splat

not that i am gona do it, just research, just research

so once again to earl sheib , do i primer?, or rough it up with what 2000 grit?

go to autozone and eyeball any "metallic" grey  and forget about clear coats?

and does the fairing come off easy?

and where to they make "FJ1100" decals?

lol
[/quote]

Assuming your questions are not rhetorical, here is my take after many years of paint...

Yes, a primer sealer should be used between what you have now and a new paint job.
No, 2000 grit is used for color sanding paint prior to final buff.  For a primer sealer, sand with 400 grit.  Sealers are thinner than primer filler so they need a finer grit than primer filler.

If you're going to the parts store for spray bombs, sure you could invest in that for a sample.  Not what I'd want to use to paint my motorcycle though.  Eyeball newer cars and trucks as well.
I do recommend a basecoat/clearcoat finish as the clear offer protection and durability.  Plus, if you scuff or scratch the clear but the basecoat is okay, it's easily repairable.

Front upper fairing?  Well that depends on your definition of easy.  For me this past spring, even with the correct tools, it was about a three hour job.  That was taking my time to make sure there were no oh $h!t moments.

MTC, real paint is expensive.  More so here in Kalifornia.  There are some deals to be had online but I like the customer service of buying from my local paint jobber.  If you have a problem, they are there to help.

Joe


[/quote]


leave the fairing on and just mask it up.......even if i find the time and patience to undergo this dream on job

thanks for the primer( pun intended) 400 grit will leave deep ass scratched, why can't i do what earl schieb does and just scuff it up and rattlecan it....oh maybe it will look like shit...

and it not like it going to make the bike worth less, sure hate to say it there is NO resale value on theses things, red headed step child

[aviationfred]

leave the fairing on and just mask it up.......even if i find the time and patience to undergo this dream on job

thanks for the primer( pun intended) 400 grit will leave deep ass scratched, why can't i do what earl schieb does and just scuff it up and rattlecan it....oh maybe it will look like shit...


[/quote]


Wet sand with the 400 grit and it will not leave deep scratches. Spray with primer and wet sand very lightly with 800.

The issues with using Rattle cans are.... Low volume spray pattern. To be able to get the paint out of the can using aerosol, this needs a very low paint to reducer ratio. This creates difficulty in getting uniform coverage (Metallic paint even more so)and gives a very thin layer of paint. This is also why rattle can paints produce runs so easily. Much of your aftermarket automotive paint is Urethane based and gives a brilliant shine with an almost rock hard finish. The paint is shot with HVLP guns that spray a higher paint to reducer ratio. This creates a thicker spay and leaves a heavier coat.

You can spend a considerable amount of time doing a rattle can paint job and have it look great when finished. In a few thousand miles of riding, bug gut acids, rock dings and such will have an adverse effect on the thin coating of paint on your main fairing. IMO, spend a little more time and do it right with the higher quality automotive Urethane paint. AND, remove the main fairing from the bike to be sprayed. The amount of time to remove and install the fairing is a small inconvenience compared to all the masking that would be required and the chance of getting overspray on items that would not take well to attempts of removing said overspray.

Fred

[mtc]

leave the fairing on and just mask it up.......even if i find the time and patience to undergo this dream on job

thanks for the primer( pun intended) 400 grit will leave deep ass scratched, why can't i do what earl schieb does and just scuff it up and rattlecan it....oh maybe it will look like shit...

thanks Fred...what you are saying is do it right, or don't do it at all

Wet sand with the 400 grit and it will not leave deep scratches. Spray with primer and wet sand very lightly with 800.

The issues with using Rattle cans are.... Low volume spray pattern. To be able to get the paint out of the can using aerosol, this needs a very low paint to reducer ratio. This creates difficulty in getting uniform coverage (Metallic paint even more so)and gives a very thin layer of paint. This is also why rattle can paints produce runs so easily. Much of your aftermarket automotive paint is Urethane based and gives a brilliant shine with an almost rock hard finish. The paint is shot with HVLP guns that spray a higher paint to reducer ratio. This creates a thicker spay and leaves a heavier coat.

You can spend a considerable amount of time doing a rattle can paint job and have it look great when finished. In a few thousand miles of riding, bug gut acids, rock dings and such will have an adverse effect on the thin coating of paint on your main fairing. IMO, spend a little more time and do it right with the higher quality automotive Urethane paint. AND, remove the main fairing from the bike to be sprayed. The amount of time to remove and install the fairing is a small inconvenience compared to all the masking that would be required and the chance of getting overspray on items that would not take well to attempts of removing said overspray.

Fred

[/quote]

[Millietant]

I'd definitely agree with Fred - I might even go as far as to say "get a professional" to do it - by this I don't mean a top class motorcycle specific paint sprayer, but just a good local spray shop - you're doing a simple colour scheme with simple lines.

When I painted my FZR front "fender", it cost me more in rattle can paint (primer, colour, clear) and wet & dry + scotcbrite pads than it would have cost me to have it done at a local spray shop - and the end result would have undoubtedly been much better quality too !!

It's easy to run up costs when buying rattle cans and making mistakes (getting rid of runs), which you don't realise you've incurred, but if you do the surface preparation work yourself, you can save a good deal of money on a job at a spray shop.

[yaman]

"I might even go as far as to say "get a professional" to do it"

you can do some things with a rattle bomb but, it takes a lot of effort
like 7 cans to do my RD tank, lots of wet sanding, then to find out the paint didnt like fuel
so i wised up(?) got a nice hvlp gun(sata mini jet- perfect for motorcycle sized jobs) and decided to do the FJ tank
over $400 in paint and another $60 for the decals, and lots of sanding and polishing
i ended up with a really nice fuel tank and a sense of satisfaction, but still felt that it would have been cheaper to have a good painter do it for me( i just cant find a good painter where i live haha)

[Tuned forks]

Yaman, you are correct.  Initially the buy in for body and paint equipment can often exceed the cost of paying a pro.  However, you will reap dividends in the future because you spent the money for a quality gun.  Sata is a top brand.  I also like Iwata and there's Devilbliss and Binks.  For the hobbyist, sometimes the inexpensive Chinese guns will do the job.

Joe