Fork with anti Dive oil change

[Nighthawk]

Hey all. I'm new here, and this is my first post and my first FJ 1200.
Does anyone have experience with the anti dive forks?
I have an 88' FJ 1200.
I'm changing seals and oil on the fork. But I'm not quite sure about how to handle the anti dive system.
Do i have to do a speciel procedure while changing oil, or is it just like on any other fork without anti dive?
I'm thinking venting the system (like on brakes)..?

also, can I change the seal without removing the damper rod?

Thank you in advance.

[Mike 86 in San Dimas]

I didn't think the 88 had anti-dive. Others more experienced will likely chime in. The anti dive units do not create any extra steps for replacing for k oil. Replacing oil seal will require disassembly of the fork. If you have not purchased a repair manual, really should.
Alright on the first post. 
Mike

[Mike 86 in San Dimas]

From home page of our site, click the files section. A section there on suspension maintenance. May find help there too.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17417.0

[Nighthawk]

Thank you Mike.
I'm not sure if it does either, or the fork has been replaced sometime.
I'm going to get a manual, when i figure out about the antidote system. I want to get a manual that includes that.
The anti dive system is not in the 88' model drawings I can find online.

but if no special procedure is required, I'm just going to replace it. have all the tools neccesarry.
was just curious if it is necessary to remove the damper rod, in order to replace the seal.

[balky1]

Only sound advice you could get about anti-dive is to remove it completely out of the equation and buy some block-off plates to put on the legs instead. That will result in better brake feel and elimination of possible oil/brake fluid leak point.
If you are not willing to do that, you can split the units in half by unscrewing two allen bolts on top. That way the brake part and fork part stay at it's places with nothing leaking out (if the unit is OK) and without the need to bleed the system.
Since you have anti-dive I will assume your forks look just like mine and then yes - you need to remove the damper rod. A special tool is required or you can make one yourself. Instructions can be found somewhere on the forum.

[Nighthawk]

Thank you Balky1.
Good idea about the block plates. will do that! I have already seen the post about how to disassemble the fork. and got the tools too.
thanks for the advice. do you also have a 88 model?

[balky1]

Thank you Balky1.
Good idea about the block plates. will do that! I have already seen the post about how to disassemble the fork. and got the tools too.
thanks for the advice. do you also have a 88 model?

No, 1985 as it states in my signature.

[red]

Thank you Balky1.  Good idea about the block plates. will do that! I have already seen the post about how to disassemble the fork. and got the tools too. thanks for the advice. do you also have a 88 model?

Nighthawk,

The anti-dive units were a good idea that just didn't do much, if anything.  My advice is to disconnect and discard the short brake hose to the A-D units, and run the long brake hose right to the caliper.  You can re-use the short banjo bolt from the A-D unit, at the caliper, but use new brake washers there, for a good seal.  It will be easier to bleed the brakes, that way.  The anti-dive units can be ignored and left in place, or you can remove the top half, if you choose.  Nothing will leak.  You can plug, fill or cap any holes in the A-D units with anything, if you want holes covered.  You can remove the A-D units entirely, and install cap-off plates, but the cap-off plates must have the correct oil passages inside, to allow the front forks to operate at all.   Flat plates would just oil-lock the forks solidly, so don't try that.  I think you can still buy the right cap-off plates, but they are pricey.

While you are thinking of spending money, it would be a far better idea to replace the 30-year old rubber front brake hoses.  Any decent hydraulic shop can make steel-braided replacement hoses in your choice of colors, or RPM here can supply a set.  Be careful with the front brakes using the new hoses, at first, because the new braided hoses will not be soft and mushy.

Nothing I said here affects the normal fork maintenance stuff in any way.

[Nighthawk]

Thank you Red.
Very useful information. nice to know I can just disconnect it, without any consequence.
already thought about new brake hoses, to front and back. it's and old bike, so lot of things needs a replace.

Cheers guys, and thanks for the help!!

[red]

Thank you Red.  Very useful information. nice to know I can just disconnect it, without any consequence.
already thought about new brake hoses, to front and back. it's and old bike, so lot of things needs a replace.  Cheers guys, and thanks for the help!!

Nighthawk,

Maybe I should mention, there may be a Y-splitter in the front brake hose assembly, which can interfere with using a fork brace.  The new brake lines from RPM use the two-hose banjo bolt at the front brake master cylinder, and run a separate brake hose to each caliper.  Locally made brake hoses can be built the same way.  Your riding style may or may not make a fork brace advisable, but that Y-splitter is only a nuisance in any case, and can be eliminated by using two (2) long brake hoses.  

If your bike has ABS, things get a bit more complicated, but this just gets you on track toward the right answers.  I can't advise you on ABS bikes, but others here can.

[balky1]

Thank you Red.  Very useful information. nice to know I can just disconnect it, without any consequence.
already thought about new brake hoses, to front and back. it's and old bike, so lot of things needs a replace.  Cheers guys, and thanks for the help!!

Nighthawk,

Maybe I should mention, there may be a Y-splitter in the front brake hose assembly, which can interfere with using a fork brace.  The new brake lines from RPM use the two-hose banjo bolt at the front brake master cylinder, and run a separate brake hose to each caliper.  Locally made brake hoses can be built the same way.  Your riding style may or may not make a fork brace advisable, but that Y-splitter is only a nuisance in any case, and can be eliminated by using two (2) long brake hoses.  

If your bike has ABS, things get a bit more complicated, but this just gets you on track toward the right answers.  I can't advise you on ABS bikes, but others here can.

I second that!