turn signal switch

[bigbore2]

trying to get the switch apart.  I had it off before, but cannot remember how it comes apart after removing the 2 screws.  thanx        84-1100

[bigbore2]

ok.  I took off the mirror/clutch master cylinder mount and it looks like I take off the grip and it slides off the end?

[CutterBill]

Leave grip and master cylinder in place. Remove 2 screws from bottom of switch assembly. Pull the 2 pieces apart but be aware that they are joined by a very short length of wires. Carefully work the switch off the handlebar. If you have disconnected the other end of the wire harness, you can now move the switch assembly to the work bench. Now the real fun begins...

The actual turn signal switch is in the upper half of the switch assembly, and is quite fiddly about how it come apart.  Some small screws.  Notice how the wires are routed.  The switch mechanism can be taken apart, but the 30-year old plastic bits are very brittle and are easily broken. A tiny spring and a detent ball live in there. Lots of ways to screw this up.

Exactly what problem are you trying to fix?
Bill

[Pat Conlon]

Bill, remember he has a '84 with the rotating choke collar next to the switch housing.
Yep, the grip has to come off, because you have to take the choke collar off....unhook the choke cable at the carbs, then rotate the choke collar until it comes away from the switch housing.
Only then can you get the switch housing open.

[red]

Bill, remember he has a '84 with the rotating choke collar next to the switch housing.  Yep, the grip has to come off, because you have to take the choke collar off....unhook the choke cable at the carbs, then rotate the choke collar until it comes away from the switch housing.   Only then can you get the switch housing open.

Pat,

I don't think so . . .   

Yes, the choke collar comes off as you said.  Then you can simply  ignore that ring, and remove the switch from the handlebar as you describe.  I did it on my '85, just like that.  If you need to make room for the choke ring, you can move the switch away from the grip, instead of moving the grip.  You may need to loosen other stuff and slide that away from the grip as well, but loosening is not removing.  It should be a simple job.

When I did mine, I got a better switch assembly from eBay first, and built one good switch assembly from the two.  Still working well.

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Thanks Red, I stand corrected.
I have a FZ1 bar on my bike and due to the bend on the bar, I can't move the switch assembly to the right to clear the choke collar.
Sounds like oem FJ bars have more room.

So Red, tell me more about your switch rebuild, send me a PM if you would.
I've been futzing with my 33 year old turn signal switch for the last year.
It's clean and lubed but it just stops working occasionally. It's old and worn. I was thinking about adding some additional solder on the contact nubs.

[red]

Hey Thanks Red, I stand corrected.   I have a FZ1 bar on my bike and due to the bend on the bar, I can't move the switch assembly to the right to clear the choke collar.  Sounds like oem FJ bars have more room.
So Red, tell me more about your switch rebuild, send me a PM if you would.   I've been futzing with my 33 year old turn signal switch for the last year.  It's clean and lubed but it just stops working occasionally. It's old and worn. I was thinking about adding some additional solder on the contact nubs.

Pat, 

What you suggest is possible, but it's a rather touchy repair.  For a start, I would get a pencil-shaped office ink eraser, which is white and somewhat gritty.  Use the eraser point to clean the contacts, down to shiny metal.  Clean the pencil-shaped eraser using a pencil sharpener, whenever it gets dirty or oily.  Then nip off the sharp end-point of the eraser, to get a firm working point on the eraser.

"Lubed" is a worrisome term, in this case.  The contacts should be clean and shiny.  The ONLY good "lube" for electrical contacts is fairly expensive silver-bearing grease, which comes in a hypodermic applicator and may cost US$10 for one ounce or less.  You will need very little of the silver-bearing grease, on any switch contacts.  Dielectric grease does not conduct, it is an insulator, and not at all what a switch needs.  Never use dielectric grease on electrical contacts, although it may be useful to seal plug bodies against moisture. Amazon sells silver-bearing electrical-contact grease.

For my repair, it was a simple matter of disassembling two switches, and using the best of each pair of parts to assemble one switch.  I used the best of the two wire harnesses, also.

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Red, good stuff.
Yes, I know not to use any grease on the contacts. I do use the aerosol contact cleaner, but never thought about the eraser method. I have also used a fine 2000 grit paper to polish the contact nubs.
I just wondered if there was a new switch assembly I could gut and swap into my existing switch housing.

Thanks again

[CutterBill]

...Never use dielectric grease on electrical contacts...

Old Wives Tale... Works just fine.  The contacts wipe thru the grease and make a good contact. I've seen all kinds of high-end (aircraft) switches filled with dielectric grease.  Auto manufacturers fill their quick-disconnect plugs with dielectric grease before they are mated, and they don't have problems. I've been doing it for... 40-45 years. Never had a problem.

That's been my experience, YMMV.
Bill

[Charlie-brm]

...Never use dielectric grease on electrical contacts...

Old Wives Tale... Works just fine.  The contacts wipe thru the grease and make a good contact. I've seen all kinds of high-end (aircraft) switches filled with dielectric grease.  Auto manufacturers fill their quick-disconnect plugs with dielectric grease before they are mated, and they don't have problems. I've been doing it for... 40-45 years. Never had a problem.

That's been my experience, YMMV.
Bill

I'll back that up 100%.

[bigbore2]

Bill- turn signal light just stopped working.  In this town, it would be dangerous not to have one.

Pat- thanx     disconnected cable at carbs and switch came right off.   Now for the exploratory surgery.

Red- if silver particle grease will work, how about anti-sieze with copper particles.  Would that work?

[red]

Red- if silver particle grease will work, how about anti-sieze with copper particles.  Would that work?

Bigbore2,

I have never tried that.  If the medium dries up, you may get coppery chips going into unwanted places. 

Check the reviews on the silvery grease, I think you will like what you hear there.

[bigbore2]

well, got it apart, cleaned [ I used hydrochloric acid on a cotton
swab to clean contacs and rinsed] and dielectric grease lube. I've had good success with it also.

And then I lost the spring, detent ball and the white plastic housing piece that lays on top of the switch.
It was not in my parts container when I went to re-assemble, so pretty sure its gone.

I am in the market for one, by the way.  Oh well, it went good up to that point.
And thanx for the advice.  It WAS going nicely with that.