FH1200 Tank woes and other issues

[bchulse]

Hi,
Just thought I'd post some info on my Fuel tank woes. I'm original owner, had the bike since
1988. After logging 50k miles over nearly 20 years, bike had been sitting for a while with little or
no gas. When I finally tried to get it running again, Gas cap was frozen (rusted shut).
Took by trailer to nearest dealer. They broke my balls about working on it (age, parts, etc.). I asked them
to get the cap off, clean & adjust carbs, get it running. 700.00+ later, took the bike home. According
to dealer, inside of fuel tank was rusted & useless, cap had to be drilled off, float assembly was shot,
fuel petcock was shot. They wanted 200.00 for a new fuel cap, said the tank and the float assembly
were no longer available.

Went online, found new cap for 25.00. After some searching, found newer float assembly for 50.00
and new petcock for around 60.00. Could not find a good used tank anywhere.

I did find Fuel Tank Services in Florida. After a couple discussions with George (owner), I sent the
tank down for repairs. It took a while, but they did an awesome job of restoring the internals. Stripped
all rust and re-coated the entire inside. Looked almost like porcelain. It was way better than I expected
and better than new. Very impressed. Lifetime guarantee also. If you need a tank fixed, this is the place!

http://www.fueltankservices.com/services.html

At any rate, after reassembling everything, got the bike running again. Now I need to do some tweaking
because it's idling way too low (5-600 rpm) and keeps stalling out. Adjusting the idle screw doesn't seem to be
doing anything. BTW, who's the idiot who placed the idle screw in the middle of the carb rack?
The engine needs to be warmed up before adjusting and your hand is right up against the hot engine. Just stupid.
It would be way easier using a screw accessible with a long screwdriver.
Anyway, tank problem is solved, onward!

[yamaha fj rider]

"It would be way easier using a screw accessible with a long screwdriver."

That is how you adjust it. The factory screw can be turned by pushing from one side or the other to turn the screw, with a long screw driver. It also helps to twist the throttle open a little first.

A question, did you sync the carbs after the rebuild?

Kurt

[bchulse]

Hi Kurt,

Sorry for the delay, first time back here.. I know the adjustment screw is ribbed, but
it's still tough to get at. At any rate, I adjusted as far CW as I could and it's still idling
too low (between 6-700). I can get it to idle without stalling with the choke off if it warms up enough.

I did not re-sync carbs after reassembly (don't know how to do this). After warmup, It is running
rough at initial throttle roll on (in neutral), but it smooths out between 2-3k rpm when revving.
I will be selling the bike anyway, so I'll aim it at someone who has some mechanical skill with the bike.

Thanks for the reply.

Brad