Ride Report

[ribbert]

My brother and I recently headed off for our Autumn ride. We decided on a 4000km round trip to take a photo! The timing was determined by the phases of the moon (for the photo, not our lust for blood).

My wife ribs me about always putting my bike back together in the wee hours of the morning of departure, this trip was no different.


The night before.


Departing from points hundreds of km's apart,[/img] we arranged to meet up in the middle of the state.
While rugging up in our cold weather gear after coffee and a snack at our meeting point, an elderly woman with a heavy European accent inquired "you don't use ze newspaper?"
The first day was one best forgotten for many reasons, boring roads, dull weather, and without a doubt the worst accommodation and dinner (different establishments) I have ever had on a trip. Our cabin smelt like it was built over the septic tank or at the very least, in close proximity and downwind from it.
Next morning started with....





It was a road you would bet the house on not being patrolled by police, let alone the Highway Patrol. Literally seconds before I had been speeding briefly to catch up after stopping to changed gloves. The GPS later revealed 199kph. It would have been a trip ending event had I been caught that would have seen my bike impounded on the spot. My brother (who was pulled over) was only doing 118.


My speedo cable became detached at the top and I failed to notice it, by the time I did, the cable had destroyed itself dragging on the road. I removed it and threw it into the bushes.






The roads and countryside just got better and better from there on. Once over the Murray






and into the Southern Flinders Ranges, we headed for Wilpena Pound.



It doesn't get much more Aussie Outback than riding "RM Williams Way"


We were a bit ambitious on the distance we expected to cover that day and the last leg was travelled through sunset, last light and then night. Late afternoon is a delight for photographs and irresistible opportunities delayed us even longer. We estimated having 100 kangaroos cross the road







in front of us in that short distance, some missing the front wheel by no more than a metre. Thank goodness for the auxiliary lighting on the bikes.  Although the road was sealed, we travelled at 50kph. This slow speed is not enough to avoid hitting roo's but you are more likely to walk away if you do. If you are really lucky, you might even ride away. Hitting roo's at highway speeds on a motorbike has a very high fatality rate.
The GS lead the way as it has ABS and the same lights, they had little effect on scaring wildlife away though. They seem to think safe haven is always on the opposite side of the road and make a dash for it as you approach.
Emu's are the worst, they travel in packs, often turn back, are always going flat out (which is very fast) and only ever seem to cross roads at right angles. Their long legs means their bodies are about torso height when sitting on a bike
We also had close calls with sheep, goats, brumbies and donkeys. Having survived all of them, the nearest I came to being taken out was an eagle while riding at highway speed.
Later that night we headed some distance from the compound (to get away from the ground light) and took our photos.



For photos like this you need to be a long way from the coast, hundreds of km's from any civilisation and have a moonless night. 75% of the stars in this photo above have disappeared when posted here. resolution


Heading North from Wilpena the following morning, we were well and truly in the Australian Outback, there is nowhere on earth like it. Mid 20's and clear blue skies.
That morning started with a 50 km stretch of bitumen curves that are probably the best I have ever ridden...









 


This was the only Kangaroo I didn't feel threatened by.

...then onto the dirt for the next few days. We rode through hundreds of creek crossings and floodways. When it rains up here, it really rains, inches at a time. These crossings and gorges can go from dry to raging torrents 30 ft deep within hours. It is very dangerous and access is strictly controlled. A $5000 fine strictly applied if found on the road in an inappropriate vehicle or any vehicle at all when it is closed.



The road to Arkaroola got steadily worse, the last 30kms being privately owned. The corrugations were so bad that I couldn't even get enough drive uphill to maintain speed at times. These were truly vision blurring roads and the worst corrugations I have ever ridden/driven on. I cannot believe nothing broke, fell off, or stopped working on the FJ although the fairing does seem to have a few spider cracks around the mounting points I hadn't noticed before.
I could best liken it to replacing the wheels with jack hammers, only worse!
Even the 4WD drive guys complained about it shaking their vehicles to bits and the lack of directional control trying to drive over it.
For the most part these roads are wide, flat and the corners sweeping and although the crushed rock road surface was course and a bit like riding on marbles,  they can be ridden comfortably 80-90kph. Through the hills these speeds were greatly reduced.




These roads really cut up the tyres.






Last time I rode out here my bike came back  covered in clay, this time I found a bike wash



This leg of the trip was 300km of dirt.









My enthusiasm for some refreshment at the Prairie Hotel was short lived.




These two quondong pies, a cup of tea and a cup of coffee - $43!! Perhaps it should be re named the "Highway Robbers Arms" or "The Swindlers Inn"




I have both done and reported on this trip a couple of years back so didn't take many photos but it is none the less spectacular country to visit, no matter how you get there. My preference though will always be by motorbike. 




The FJ where it belongs. 



Crunch time - 1800 extra km's to the right or vaguely head towards home to the left. 


This is just a gratuitous shot of two Roo's who weren't trying to kill me and stood still long enough to be photographed.





My statement of disbelief that nothing broke or failed on the FJ was perhaps a bit premature.
The roads had taken their toll on something. The carrier bearing had failed. This was Saturday night and forced a lay over on the Sunday until the shops opened on Monday. I located the nearest bearing service first thing and was back on the road by late morning.


I have a bad habit of waiting until I'm sure the rain is not just a passing shower and I'm drenched to the skin before putting on my wet weather gear.



Last night on the road, always a bit sad knowing tomorrow is the last day of the trip.



The following morning my TPMS (remote tyre pressure monitor) saved me from a very awkward situation yet again as I headed into remote, unpopulated country. I noticed the rear pressure dropping at the rate of about 1lb/minute and returned to the town I had last travelled though, after re inflating it.
I had great difficulty finding the puncture, there was nothing in the tyre and it was chewed up and covered in cuts and nicks from the rocks. It was leaking at such a rate it wouldn't bubble. I eventually found it, but not easily.




The last leg of the last day home was a fitting 3deg, dark and pouring rain. Even so, I was sad the ride was over.
After a lifetime of being wet when it rains and freezing when it's cold on a motorbike, the relatively recent introduction of clothing and accessories that allows me to stay dry, warm and fog free always puts a grin on my face when riding into a wall of weather like this.




The above and following photos were all taken only a few hours and a few hundred km's apart on the same stretch of coastline.

 





The calm waters of Apollo Bay were the last visual treat for the day and several hours later the last leg home was four lane highway at night in torrential rain, heavy traffic, a visually impenetrable haze of road spray, freezing temps and mad drivers.
Welcome back to the real world!

And finally, the beast parked back exactly where it was a week ago, like nothing had happened at all, except it was filthy and had a whole swag of new memories under its belt.


To take another bike on such a trip would feel like an act of betrayal to the one that has served me so well.

What a machine.

Get out there and ride!

Noel

Photos were shot with a 36 megapixel Nikon D810 (not mine) a Nikon P900 and a phone.



The magic of the Australian Ourback is impossible to describe so I won't even try, but those who have been there will understand the beauty in some of these photos. For those that don't, just think of it as not being at work and out riding. 

[big r]

Awesome report and amazing pictures. Good on ya for having having a great ride. Big R

[TexasDave]

Thanks for posting this great ride. Simply amazing pictures. I wish had all the instruments you do on the dash. I have flown planes with less instruments in the cockpit(older planes). Thanks Noel.

Dave

[Bones]

Fantasic photos Noel, picture postcard quality. You obviously don't let work get in the way of your travels as you always seem to be out and about exploring this great country of ours, which is a good thing because your giving me ideas of places to visit. We did a road trip a few years ago down south and am thinking about doing another one later this year with thoughts of eventually heading to South Australia to check out places like Hahndorf, so Wilpena pound could be on the cards as well just to see that sky.

Still reckon you should put some knobby tyres on that beast of yours because there always seems to be more dirt in your photos than bitumen.

[Sparky84]

Noel Noel Noel

++++3, What they all said 

What a story and ride photos, while reading it all I could hear was Jack Thompson's voice narrating it
Thanks for sharing,  I feel like packing the bike tonight til the wee hours and going.

Next time can you put together a video and Narrate it for us and I'm sure you could give Daryl Beattie Outback Adventures a run for his money

I won't sleep tonight 

Cheers Alan

[ken65]

Thanks Uncle Noel.  That's as good as it gets. 

[ribbert]

Thanks for all the comments, it was indeed a great ride and we surely do live in the lucky country. For some of that trip I could count the number of other vehicles encountered per day on one hand, I love that.

The shot of the FJ under the Milky Way was just for a bit of fun, the serious shots were spectacular beyond belief. Being there looking at it first hand was an experience. I could actually see the depth of space, the near and far stars. I don't recall ever seeing a night sky like it.

Ken, what happened to you attending the Rally? I was looking forward to meeting you at last.

Noel

[X-Ray]

Great as ever Noel, 

Sometimes, whenever I see photos of cops pulling up bikes on nice open stretches of road, it just makes me wonder where discretion and common sense is these days. I know they have to enforce the law etc, but come on. It would make me say something to the cop like, " you know these roads are good for 200kmhr don't you"?  lol!!! 

[Firehawk068]

Awesome write-up Noel, and awesome pictures!
Amazing world we live on!
The washboard roads would have me cursing 
'Thank you for sharing!

[Country Joe]

Noel,
Thank you for posting the photos and ride report. The Outback certainly looks to be a magical place!

Joe

[roverfj1200]

Great report mate and I must say that you sure use your FJ to take you great places. My choice for the dusty stuff has changed and no longer contemplate dirt on the FJ even though they can do it.

Cheers

[oldktmdude]

   Great stuff as usual Noel. I always enjoy seeing where you and the FJ get to and your story about getting there and back, always entertaining. Thanks.
   Regards, Pete.   

[ken65]

Howdy Noel, Turned out to be a mistake on my part.
Money was a bit short but i planned on heading up that way but no sleepover.
Anyway I got a new rear tyre on the bike on the 10th of march. I thought it was the
the last weekend of march for some reason and after riding around all weekend on my new tyre
I visited the forum to check and it was all over.