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Hi ya'll, from Georgia,

Started by blackboat, March 21, 2010, 03:25:12 AM

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blackboat

As of last week I took delivery a sorta beat (fairing problems, no biggie), sorta high mileage (76,000). dark blue 1989 FJ1200. As my daily commuter. The current bike, a nearly new Kawasaki Ninja 500, is leaving to make room. And also because I need the money to try a defray some of the expenses of nearly two years of illness and not working much.

The good news is I can now afford the FJ1200. They've stuck in my head since leaving college (late 80's), at which time I rode a Honda CB750F Super Sport 'cause they were old enough by then I could afford one. At the time, it was a real sleeper in the market (Interceptors & Ninjas being all over the place), and had not too many years before left the Ducati folks figuring how to get back on top.

Anyway, the FJ has stuck with me for years as something I wanted, and when I was just sort of half looking,thinking about turning the Kawi into cash (getting to be the right time of the year down here) when a project FJ on ebay prompted me to check CL, well, what should I find, he's negotiable and inside of 24 hours I'm heading back with the bike on the trailer. Got home about 10:30, ate, started unloading around 11:00pm, put some mirrors on it , and about midnight there's about a 4 mile loop through my neighborhood that knows I got a new bike (Theres's some F1 mufflers on it that aren't real subtle).

First problem to crop up was a nail in the brand new rear tire on day of purchase. Seller knocked off some for that. I still haven't decided what to. Small nail, almost dead center in tread. Dunlop has a list of approved fixes, long as belts aren't cut (D404 FWIW), but I can't find anyone that will touch it. Best I can do is a new tire or put a tube in it (for $60). I've been reading all I can about rear wheel swaps, but there doesn't seem to be much specific info as to years and models. I was just reading a thread that seemed to indicate 87-88 FZR1000 rears as 17", but the one I want to buy (especially since it has a rotor and mine's warped) is an 18" rim. Was hoping to find a rim with a good tire on it, and did, but for an R6, which doesn't seem to be used, but I'm not sure why. Not interested in the GSXR conversion; I need to get something done soon. I do have my own machine shop for the couple of things that need to move a bit. I just need the wheel & rotor right now. I hate to put another 16" tire on this bike.

I have been searching here, and I'm just not bringing it all together.

Maybe it will look better in the AM,

Thanks,
Rob

Yamifj1200

Welcome to the group Rob,
  I'm glad you found the fj you were looking for. As for the rear wheel swap you may want to go with a YZF-600 rear wheel. You can use a mid 90's YZF-600 rear wheel pre R-6 with some easy machine work.  You will also need the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Remove 8mm off of the round axle spacer on the sprocket side of the wheel. Remove 8mm off of the outer side of the brake caliper bracket (where it makes contact with the swingarm). Remove the sprocket studs from the sprocket carrier and turn 3mm off of the rear sprocket carrier where the sprocket sits. You will need to bend your brake stay just a bit to get it to line up with the newly machined brake caliper bracket and your good to go. With this wheel mod you will be able to run a 170-17 rear tire.  Hope this helps..

Eric M


http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14833.0


"All unattended children will be served an espresso and given a puppy"

carsick

 Welcome aboard Rob!
Sounds like you've got a new bundle of joy there, congrats. I'm doing the GSXR swap, can't recommend it as quick, still rounding up pieces since December. Wishing I had gone the YZF 600 route, better parts availability. Are you looking for quieter cans, or do you like the neighbors to know when it's Kookaloo time?
Doug

racerman_27410

welcome to the group Rob,

i believe the yzf600 wheel is gonna be your best bet.


Kookaloo!

Frank

Mark Olson

Rob welcome,

the 87-88 fzr1000 is for the front wheel swap, it gives you a 3 1/2" width for the 120/70/17 radial tire.

If you have access to machine shop then get a fzr1000 rear wheel as well and it will hold a 180/55/17 radial tire.
I don't remember what year for the rear somebody will chime in.
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

WS

Hello Rob,

    when you do the rear FZR 1000 EXUP conversion you need the 5.5X17 rim 1989 to 1995.

Greetings Werner

blackboat

First, thanks for all the responses. I've been on the road all day fetching some odd bits of Oxford luggage found on CL too cheap too ignore and helping my folks out at their house, so now is the first time I've had to sit down and absorb all this.

The dates are great; between what you guys have given me, and a bit of googling to find the R6 intro'ed in '99, I've now got a lot better handle on what I'm looking for on the YZF600R swap. Good note on the brake bracket required; I knew some machining got done to it, but hadn't caught on it wasn't the original FJ bracket. Esp. Eric M; nice quick run down on that.

Also thanks for the dates on the FZR1000 mods. I've read about it, but without dates more certain of the parts it was getting frustrating. I'll re-read what I've got on that and see how I feel.


QuoteAre you looking for quieter cans, or do you like the neighbors to know when it's Kookaloo time?

Well, personally I'd prefer it much quieter. Sneaky even like some of the 'Busas I've heard. My hearings bad enough (I do wear ear plugs), and I do live in a quiet neighborhood and come and go early and late a lot so......    I must admit though to a certain internal evil little grin when I fire it up at work; everybody sure seems to equate noise with HP, and after hearing my little EX500 for 2 years they're wondering what the heck it is I've got now. :biggrin:

Also, if anyone is still following along, is the 160/60/17 tire from the YZF600 useful at all? An ebay special with wheel, tire and rotor at the right price would help a lot right now. If not, then at least I know to discount the tire part of the deal.

Thanks so much for the help so far. This was all real spur of the moment, but still felt right kind of thing. Trouble is, I tend to get real hyped up about mods, whether needed or not. Remember from my point of view, for darn near 20 years, I've viewed this as a pretty done right from the factory bike, plus the year and color couldn't have been better from my prior research. But now that I've got the darn thing, all of the sudden I find out it needs new different wheels, modern rubber, updated brake system plus a later clutch master at least for adjustability, and oh yeah, stick a whole new set of fork on it while you're at it. A bit much to hear, and I get a bit panicked and think I need to do it all now. Need to calm down a bit :dash1:

In reality, if I can't find a wheel swap quick, it may just be best to put another stock size on it, which with me mainly commuting, should see me well past a year by mileage numbers I've sen quoted, and spend some time acquiring parts cheap until I can put together a new rear, and the wider front too.

Really do appreciate the help; even though I'm tickled with the bike, new projects are stressful on me and info really helps sort it all out. And FWIW, machine shop is located at home, the work is dead simple and doesn't cost me anything, so I do have that in my favor (kind of why I have it in the first place).

Thanks,

Rob

Fred

The 160 tire should work..... probably easier. Its just that most people use the widest tire possible. You will also need the the yzf 600r spacers. The left one needs to be machined, on the right side you machine the caliper bracket. I think its 6mm, but check, don't trust my memory I never do.

HTH

Arnie

Nothing wrong with the 160/60x17 tire.  I've been using one for the last 11years on my FJ.
The most important reason to change rear wheels is so you can run modern design, low height sidewall radial tires.  The 160 steers a bit lighter than a 180 will and you'll have no problems with chain alignment nor with finding a way to space your countershaft sprocket out.
Most here who have done  the swap to a 17" wheel have put a 5.5" rim and 180 on, but that's as much fashion as necessity IMO.  I guess the couple of guys with seriously strong engines (Frank & Pat come to mind) may actually get a benefit from not spinning up their rear tire all the time.

While all the mods you list are "nice", they are not necessary.  The bike stops in the same distance with stock brakes as it does with the blue/gold spot calipers.  The stainless lines make much more difference to braking feel than the calipers. 

The FJ is a great bike.  Sure, it can be made better or more modern, but as its so new to you why not ride it for a while and see what YOU think is most desirable to change/improve.

Cheers,
Arnie

blackboat

Thanks both of the 2 previous posters confirming the 160 tire.


Quote from: Arnie on March 22, 2010, 08:27:45 AM
Nothing wrong with the 160/60x17 tire.  I've been using one for the last 11years on my FJ.
The most important reason to change rear wheels is so you can run modern design, low height sidewall radial tires.  The 160 steers a bit lighter than a 180 will and you'll have no problems with chain alignment nor with finding a way to space your countershaft sprocket out.
Most here who have done  the swap to a 17" wheel have put a 5.5" rim and 180 on, but that's as much fashion as necessity IMO.  I guess the couple of guys with seriously strong engines (Frank & Pat come to mind) may actually get a benefit from not spinning up their rear tire all the time.

While all the mods you list are "nice", they are not necessary.  The bike stops in the same distance with stock brakes as it does with the blue/gold spot calipers.  The stainless lines make much more difference to braking feel than the calipers. 

The FJ is a great bike.  Sure, it can be made better or more modern, but as its so new to you why not ride it for a while and see what YOU think is most desirable to change/improve.

Cheers,
Arnie

What Arnie suggests is what I have in mind, but didn't quite get to it. Like I said before, I've got some weird gene that makes me think I need to do all the tricky stuff needed or not. It's the damaged rear tire that's pushing me to look at doing that, especially if I can pull it off for the cost of a new tire and from then on have the better 17" option.

Personally so far I have no complaints. The front brake feel could be a bit better, and it seems there's a couple of tenths of a second before things heat up and really start braking, and I find the rear brake to be more useful than on my EX500, probably due to the mass of the FJ and it not nosediving like my Kawi. Except for the warped rear rotor, I got no complaints really about stoppage. Bike already has stainless lines installed. The one thing I missed at first was adjustable levers, but after a few rides adaption is happening. Have a Pilot Power on the front, which has a small round nose that blends into "V" section sidewalls. Bike turns better than reports had me expecting, but I do think the front tire is helping that.

Once the rear is sorted out, it's on to valve work and carb checks, then some fairing repair as I ride it and see how it feels after 1000 miles or so before I plan anything more if I feel it's needed.

Thanks for filling in that last gap on the tire deal guys,

Rob

markmartin

Quote from: blackboat on March 21, 2010, 03:25:12 AM
, at which time I rode a Honda CB750F Super Sport 'cause they were old enough by then I could afford one. At the time, it was a real sleeper in the market (Interceptors & Ninjas being all over the place),

Welcome Rob,

What year 750 F did you own? I had 2 '81 750 F's, both silver with the red pin stripe.  I agree, they were a great bike at the time.  both of mine ran flawlessly.  The rear shocks were lacking, but aside from this, i thought they handled very well.   I rode from NH to Daytona beach non-stop one spring.  Took 3 days on the way back through the Blue ridge parkway north bound.   Good memories. Went from Nh to Virginia beach another time.  I put about 12,000mi on the first one (got stolen) and about 35,000 on the second one.  I think the only thing I ever changed / fixed was a battery and a speedometer cable. Tough bikes.  Not an FJ, but still a very good  bike.

Yamifj1200

Rob,
  There is no need to go into the world of mods hell bent to get it all done NOW. Think about the mods your interested in and begin a plan of attack. Ask yourself what would I like to improve on my bike?

I started with the YZF rear wheel mod, for an better option on replacement rear tires and I am a machinist so it seemed like the first step since I could do the machine work myself. Next I decided I would like to have improved braking, so since I had a late model the mono-block front calipers would be a bolt on deal. I picked up a set of calipers off of ebay with good brake pads for less than the cost of a set of stock replacement pads. In time I was able to slowly collect the needed parts and find great deals on them.

The FJ is a great old school bike just the way it is and will ride just fine for years. That being said there are things you can do over time to make the bike ride better, brake better,handle better and be more comfortable than it is in stock form. I have a good friend who rides a bone stock 84 model with over 200,000 miles on it and still loves everytime he gets to ride it.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do and if you need some advice or help just hollar theres always someone here willing to help..

Eric M


http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14833.0


"All unattended children will be served an espresso and given a puppy"

RichBaker

Quote from: blackboat on March 22, 2010, 12:37:36 PM

Personally so far I have no complaints. The front brake feel could be a bit better, and it seems there's a couple of tenths of a second before things heat up and really start braking, and I find the rear brake to be more useful than on my EX500, probably due to the mass of the FJ and it not nosediving like my Kawi. Except for the warped rear rotor, I got no complaints really about stoppage. Bike already has stainless lines installed. The one thing I missed at first was adjustable levers, but after a few rides adaption is happening. Have a Pilot Power on the front, which has a small round nose that blends into "V" section sidewalls. Bike turns better than reports had me expecting, but I do think the front tire is helping that.

Once the rear is sorted out, it's on to valve work and carb checks, then some fairing repair as I ride it and see how it feels after 1000 miles or so before I plan anything more if I feel it's needed.

Thanks for filling in that last gap on the tire deal guys,

Rob

I had this problem when I installed EBC pads.... put new OEM pads in and the "GOOD" brake feel was back... no warm-up needed.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

blackboat

QuoteRob,
  There is no need to go into the world of mods hell bent to get it all done NOW

I agree, but it takes me a few days to settle down and sort new projects out. I've decided to go ahead with the yzf600 wheel swap; makes enough sense that I think it will be worth the extra money over just replacing the damaged rear. Bought one of the pretty purple ones with a rotor (remember I've got a warped rotor already, so something had to be done). Unfortunately I didn't think to ask about the cush drive and sprocket carrier; that side wasn't shown in photo. Plus I still missed the fact I need the YZF caliper carrier. Think I can get the caliper carrier from the wheel seller; not sure about drive, but not a huge oversight. Will sort it out in the morning. Now at least I can look at 17" tires.

:shok: Scarily enough, I think I might actually like the purple on the dark blue FJ, we'll see. Might paint the front to match instead of the way most normal humans would do it. Purple wheels w/ blue reflective stripe stuff,on dark blue bike, might work. Probably try it in photoshop first though.:shok:

Quoteput new OEM pads in and the "GOOD" brake feel was back... no warm-up needed.

Makes sense; if the EBC pads are intended for harder riding, OEM's might be a better bet for a sluggish commuter type like me. I'll eventually pull a pad and see what's on there. Thanks for the idea.


QuoteWhat year 750 F did you own?

I'm thinking it was an '80, maybe '81. Black with stripey stuff on it. Had about 30K on it when I got it, compression wasn't great, but I kept it oiled up and put almost 20K more on it. When the last set of tires went, and paint was fading fast, I decided to sell it. Sadly, my camera gear was stolen by a room mate, and it was years before I could afford more Nikon stuff and thus there is not a single pic of that bike. Saw one at a local japanese bike club show and my poor daughter couldn't figure out why I was babbling and taking photo's of that one all of a sudden. What she didn't quite get was I used that old Honda of mine to visit the girl that is her mother 3-4 times a week, 1-2 hours each way depending, for a couple of years (thus the miles added up fast).

Thanks all, getting there (plus some mirrors arrived today, both Honda CBR style and bar ends. Going to find a way to see behind me now)

Rob